[TheBowWowKid]

I unlocked my 1800xp. I think I did it correctly.

The problem is that at its default setting(after unlocking) my OS sees it as a 1700xp.

When it was locked it ran cooler for the same given FSB and ran at a higher frequency.

Another problem is my bios only shows a 2x setting for the AGP bus and I used to run it at 4x.

1800xp AGOGA
512 Kingston pc2100
30 gig Seagate
Ti 200 Gainward GS
KR7A 266a

Give me the bad news peeps. =(

Thanks.

[John C.]

Originally posted by TheBowWowKid
I unlocked my 1800xp. I think I did it correctly.

The problem is that at its default setting(after unlocking) my OS sees it as a 1700xp.

Redo the leftmost L1 bridge, it's probably grounded to the sub-surface ground plane exposed in the pit, or a surface icon near it. The difference between 1700 and 1800 is that the .5X Bit Value is HI/1800, LO/1700. and grounding that signal makes a "permanent/unchangeable" LO.
John C.
Learn the Multiplier Code for future diagnostics at
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm link to article and others as well.

[ChillPhatCat]

That's kinda like mine... if I set Multiplier to "default" it registers as a 1500 XP... but I have a choice of 8,8.5,10,10.5 multipliers... kinda strange... best O/C has been at 10x also.

[Akumu X]

heh you're the opposite of me Cat. I can only get odd multipliers.
It has to do with the unlock...I've heard my 2nd L1 isn't unlocked or shorted. That's fine though.

Not sure if you wanna go back and clean up everything and RE-unlock your CPU. That should do it for you. (like John says)

[ChillPhatCat]

As much of a PITA it is to take off that SK7 I do believe you've inspired me to mix up another batch of carcinogenic silver epoxy... just gotta get a better aplicator... the pin I used was too fat... I think it may be contact to the L1 label causing my problems.

[John C.]

Originally posted by ChillPhatCat
As much of a PITA it is to take off that SK7 I do believe you've inspired me to mix up another batch of carcinogenic silver epoxy... just gotta get a better aplicator... the pin I used was too fat... I think it may be contact to the L1 label causing my problems.

You also wrote....
That's kinda like mine... if I set Multiplier to "default" it registers as a 1500 XP... but I have a choice of 8,8.5,10,10.5 multipliers... kinda strange... best O/C has been at 10x also. End quote.....

Chill,
Don't touch the leftmost L1 as it's connected to the .5X Bit Value...which you seem to be able to "toggle" between HI and LO, ref 8/8.5, 10/10.5...so it's OK.

And the 8X and 10X data says the middle L1, in the 2X circuit is also OK since 2X is LO for 8X but HI for 10X.

But inability to get 9X says you are not able to "turn OFF" the 1X bit Value which needs to be LO for 9X. And since both 8X and 10X "do get" the 1X HI they BOTH need...then the problem is most likely that the 1X L1, second from the left is "not grounded/LO but still open". If it was grounded/LO you'd get 9X, but not 8X and 10X. So the problem is probably "bad connection/s" between your conductive epoxy and one or both of that L1's "dots"...insulating film or dirt, dried before good contact?? Clean up and redo...we like the rear window defgogger repair material.

Go to the site/ Multiplier Code article, learn how to use Code to debug failures like above.
John C.

[Yodums]

Clean the bridges with alcohol and start over again. That would be your best bet. Doing over one bridge would be hard.

Anyways, have a 10x magnifying glass handy to inspect your work when it's done. Saves alot of grief and work to know you screwed up before you put it in the system.

Also, your temps may have been higher simply because your thermal paste perhaps hasn't settled in - if you're using an Arctic Silver product, they take 72hrs to settle in.

Yodums