[foolsguest]

(As this is my first post, I hope this is the right section for general MB mods)

I have a motherboard (MSI 6340M v.1) that was an early production model and as purchased was missing the jumper for selecting either 100 or 133 FSB, although the jumper was present in the diagram in the manual. Having looked at a later board that has this jumper installed, I can see exactly where it needs to go. I would like to connect the jumper connections with either solder or perhaps some kind of conductive paint or laquer, to set the FSB to 133.

There are 3 electrical contacts present. Does anyone know which of the 3 would need to be connected to close the "jumper"? (perhap's all 3?)

Would this require solder or would something easier and less permanent like conductive paint also work?

[Sasquach Jimmy]

If you want to try some ghetto engineering you could solder some high gauge wire onto the contacts and stick a jumper on those.
BTW you only need 1 jumper, probably 1+2 is 100FSB and 2+3 is 133, check the manual or try them both and see...

[whiteemcee]

You could solder some high guage wire, but why? why wouldn't u just get another jumper i mean i've got millions i'm sure u could go to a local computer store and they would give u a pile for nothin... or am i missing something here and u can't put a jumper on it? and yes i would believe that 2+3 is 133 as most motherboards are

[WyrmMaster]

Originally posted by whiteemcee
You could solder some high guage wire, but why? why wouldn't u just get another jumper i mean i've got millions i'm sure u could go to a local computer store and they would give u a pile for nothin... or am i missing something here and u can't put a jumper on it? and yes i would believe that 2+3 is 133 as most motherboards are

because his mobo doesnt have the pins for the jumper, just the contacts on the mobo. He needs to connect those contacts. The hi gauge wire idea was a way to make it so a jumper could be used, by adding the pins for one.

[cack01]

Or you can try ripping pins off an old HDD and use those. I'm sure any electronics store may have something simillar such as Radio shack or fry's.
If it works, it would make an excelent article for the front page.

[foolsguest]

Thanks for your help, everyone. Some of you seem to understand what I meant, but I think I need to back up and re-explain the situation better. (sorry about my lack of proper terminology)

By "jumper", what I really meant was not just the removable jumper part, but the entire jumper assembly that would be stuck down on the board - the pins and the mounting bracket base that holds the pins, as well as the removable jumper.

Since the entire jumper assembly was never attached at the factory, all that is there is 3 tiny beads of solder on the MB that I will have to connect to close the circuit.

Also, this is a single 2-pin jumper assembly, not a 3-pin: there is no 1-2 or 2-3 choice. On later versions of this same board, there is a single 2 pin jumper that is either on or off: it makes 133 mhz. FSB when on or 100 FSB when taken off. Since the entire jumper assembly is missing, my board gets 100 FSB only.

What complicates this is that below where the 2-pin jumper assembly should be, there are 3 contact points (tiny beads of solder) on the board. The jumper assembly is vertical. Under the (missing) jumper pin on the top side of the board is one bead. So that is one of the 2 contact points. However, under the lower (missing) pin are 2 beads, one on each side of this (missing) pin. So this pin could be connected to either or both of these 2 lower beads.

So my main concern is - can I damage the board if I connect the wrong pin?

As far as how to make the connection? - Attaching a proper jumper assembly to the existing beads of solder is not going to be possible. I could solder on, or preferably use (if I can find) some kind of conductive paint to close the circuit.

Ok, I hope that everyone now understands the situation better.

Thinking about Sasquach Jimmy's and cack01's suggestion of soldering jumper "pins" onto the contact beads, that sounds like it would be difficult for me to align them precisely so that a jumper could be slipped on. I thought about soldering on thin wires and then just twisting them or soldering them together. But I prefer the idea of painting conductive laquer to close the circuit, as has been suggested for unlocking the latest Athlon's multiplier. (The "pencil trick" graphite no longer works on Athlons) However, I do not know if the conductivity of silver laquer(or whatever) would be high enough to complete the circuit.

Has anyone ever done anything like this?

[Ugmore Baggage]

Have you tried shorting a few combinations to be sure that your board will actually run in jumpered configs? Just because the solder points are there I wouldn't assume they're connected to anything. Are you sure your bios will recognise it properly?

-edit- If I were you, I'd be asking the manufacturer or on the manufacturer's forum. Especially if it's something you're serious about.

[Tbird man]

Yes, a contact on one side and none on the other would suggest to me you are missing a surface mount component, is their a trace runnig from both pin holes? or is the one next to the solder pad not connected to anything?

[q149]

if there is like 2 little metal dots where the pins should be? then you could use a defogger kit or cunductive pen or something maybe, like unlocking an xp