Checking Unlock with Multimeter

I am seeing things showing people checking their unlocks with a mutlimeter by puttin one side on some weird pin on the other side of the chip from the L1 bridges, and then placing the other end on the L1 bridges and checking somthing and i dont know what, i have tryed to unlock this thing so many times that its not even funny and failed every time, i even bought one of those 'unlocking kits' to do it and still nothing, if anyone knows what i am talking about or can help me with this please let me know.

Thanks

Matt+

I dont quite follow the most of it...

im no expert in the usage of multimeters but I would probably just do a continuity test to see if the connections are all properly made

You use the MM to make sure you haven't shorted any of the bridges to ground, so from ground to all the L1 (or L3) bridges should be HIGH resistence.

Also you should check where you connected the each pair of pins to make sure the resistence is close to zero (very close)

You might want to see if you can just do the L3 bridge, where you just connect the last pair of points to unlock. It worked on my 2200+ (rev....javascript:smilie('') A) that was a much easier time then when i had to connect all the L1s (NOT fun... not fun at all)

Good luck.

Oh and if you still can't do it and you got money to spend, just buy a new nForce2 Motherboard and a T-bred Rev. B (like at 2400+) and you dont have to unlock it, its ready to change the X in the BIOS

Pirate is your chip a brown or a green? if it is a green there is a coating over the bridges that you need to remove before you connect them. If you don't do this what looks to be a good unlock will not work.

pirate252 said:

I am seeing things showing people checking their unlocks with a mutlimeter by puttin one side on some weird pin on the other side of the chip from the L1 bridges, and then placing the other end on the L1 bridges and checking somthing and i dont know what, i have tryed to unlock this thing so many times that its not even funny and failed every time, i even bought one of those 'unlocking kits' to do it and still nothing, if anyone knows what i am talking about or can help me with this please let me know. Matt+

Click to expand...

Matt,
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm has lots of articles with diagrams of the Multiplier signal circuits...from the socket pins thru the L1 bridges to the various Multiplier bridges and their signal busses. There are even pic/s of the related socket pins connecting to the L1s. So info is all there for checking continuity/no grounds etc with a multimeter.
Just one caveat...conductive inks are very fragile, so when checking for continuity/no grounds etc across bridges, it's a good idea NOT to place the test probe/s on the conductive material as that will usually destroy the trace. Make contact with something "connected" to the L1s, like their socket pins on one end, and the "tops" of related L3/L4/L10 Multiplier bridges below the L1s. This way you don't mess with the closing mod, AND, you also get to check whether good contact was made between the conductive material and the dots...
which might have had some film on them.
John C.

alright thanks all