[M@D OVERCLOCKER]

Hi,

For those who have T Breds 2200+ Rev. B (or even Rev. A), how high have you been able to run them?

(Mentioning your : motherboard, RAM, cooling system, mods, and anything that helped you would be a must)

[RedDawg41]

xp2100 week 0248

Computer System Processor Model : AMD Athlon XP 2100
Speed : 2.47GHz
Model Number : 3104 (estimated)
Performance Rating : PR3576 (estimated)


System Mainboard : First International Computer, Inc. AN19-E
System Chipset : VIA Technologies Inc VT8377 Apollo KT400 CPU
Front Side Bus Speed : 2x 190MHz (380MHz data rate)
Installed Memory : 512MB DDR-SDRAM
Memory Bus Speed : 2x 190MHz (380MHz data rate)

Video System Adapter : NVIDIA GeForce4 Ti 4400 128mb ddr

Physical Storage Devices
Removable Drive : Floppy disk drive
Disk Drive : WDC WD400BB-00DEA0 (37.3GB)
Disk Drive : WDC WD600AB-00BVA0 (55.9GB)
CD-ROM/DVD : AOpen DVD-1640 PRO (CD 40X Rd) (DVD 5X Rd)
CD-ROM/DVD : TDK CDRW4800B (CD 48X Rd, 48X Wr)

[M@D OVERCLOCKER]

Thanks for your input, but your CPU is a 2100+, interesting nevertheless

[deathstar13]

there isnt no 2200B out ive seen.
i had a 2200A that did 2045mhz @1.85 i think
was on samsung 2700 and a7v333 with a volcano 7+
not a very good ocing chip imo

[M@D OVERCLOCKER]

Have a look here , it seems that they came out.

[deathstar13]

yup sure have and that place seems to be getten a good rep around here also.id say it might oc rather well too 2.3 mabey,but just a guess.

[M@D OVERCLOCKER]

Originally posted by deathstar13
yup sure have and that place seems to be getten a good rep around here also.id say it might oc rather well too 2.3 mabey,but just a guess.

If it is so, getting a 2100+ (they've got 3 different steppings which one to get?) will be a best bang for buck.

[deathstar13]

i think everyone says the 0249 the most expensive one is the one to get.imo tho date codes dont mean that much,but thats just my opinion.

[M@D OVERCLOCKER]

Originally posted by deathstar13
i think everyone says the 0249 the most expensive one is the one to get.imo tho date codes dont mean that much,but thats just my opinion.

Thanks again deathstar13

I have one or two more days to make my buy, I hope I'll get more inputs that'll help me make my mind.

[deathstar13]

well just to make it even rougher for ya,the 1700b newegg is selling for $53 usually gets 2.3-2.4 on air ive been told.mine will be here this week and trust me it will be highly abused.

[RedDawg41]

Here's what will **** you off the most when getting any cpu...
What is my expected OC goal for this cpu? and Would I pay $xxx.xx amount of dollars for that particular cpu when other cpu's seem to do better for less?

When you hear or see posting on the forums discribing how he/she got xp cpu up to 2+GHz on air cooling and you go out and get that cpu only to be dissappointed tht you didn't get the same expected results, you end up a bit miffed/****ed on this matter.

All I can say to youfolks here is to watch where you put you dollars into before making a cpu purchase. Sometimes it pays to have a better than average Pwrsupply and Motherboard/memory components than to post a screamer on these forums on what you couldn't do with x cpu... Trust me, the most over looked component happens to be the PwrSupply.... 300watts may be good but if it's not putting out the correct stable voltages on the v5/v12 rails, then you're **** out of luck...

When you get to OC'ing your beast of a machine, please note that running 4 (80mm) fans @50cfm's.... CPU cooler @84cfm/80cfm/60cfm... and a couple of HD's, two cd-r/DVD combos... lighted case with flourescent lighting etc... makes you wonder why he/she can't get that CPU up past his expected OC frequency... Best of luck to all who tries this obscured art of OC'ing.

RedDawg41

[deathstar13]

reddawg i agree on alot you say.ocing isnt a science but an art.
alot is guessing and alot is knowledge and experiance.

the psu is the most overlooked part of anyones rig.i run 2 of them myself.one just for the mobo and cpu alone.

im not an ocing god, but i do have alot of experiance/knowledge and excelent equipment.this never ever guarentees me a great oc either.alot reallys on shear dumb luck of getting a good performing cpu.

i dont even need to go into how much good cooling means or even costs.

but even a newby with average parts and some luck can now throw out some insane oc'es.this has to do with companys making more and better parts for oc'ers.this also accounts for alot of mistakes and toasted high costing parts.

in a way im upset ocing is so easy now,in ways im happy.it does bring more people into the great and fun world of ocing,but also creats alot of ocers who are lost when one simple complication arrises.

in the end when you buy a cpu.even the most highley rated one.it should only be expected to run its rated speed and thats it and no more.if it does more than that count yourself lucky.

[RedDawg41]

I've couldn't have said it better deathstar, and totally agrea with you... talk about dumb luck and finally getting manufacturers to make quality parts for techno heads/speed freaks/Geek-a-saurus in all of us.

[Kunaak]

some one recently said in an article...

"overclockers tend to buy into a fantasy, and when that fantasy isnt met, it's somehow someone elses fautl, but they forget, you bought a CPU for a given speed, the fantasy you create about the speed you "think" it can do, is your fault alone. the manufacturer only garauntees the rated speed"

I always remember that, cause thats probably the truest thing I ever heard when concerning overclocking.

so if something doesn't OC as you hope it will. sell it, and try a different one. cause its not anyones fault if your XP 22oo can't reach 2.6 ghz on air, like your friends XP 2400...

I remember that every single time I install a new CPU.

[funko]

deathstar,

sorry to be off topic but something caught my attention

how are you running dual PS? does your case have room for that? or is teh 2nd on just sitting on top of your case or something? i always wanted to just pick up a cheapER 2nd PS to help out y system as teh cheap skate's route to increasing power capability

but of course aesthetics always held me back as well has my non existant job since school is really killing me these days

[deathstar13]

i think we been off subject the last 10 posts least the questions were answered i beleive.

i have a very large server size tower.and yeh ii can fit 2 psu's stacked on top of each other inside the case.one is turned at the moment couse ive been waiting to disasemble and do alot of cutting with my dremel.

as of now i have one psu just plugged into the mobo and the other is running all drives and the such.

my last setup was 2xfsp psu's with spliced atx connecters and run it as a dually parallel setup.was great at first but after a few pot adjustemnts it was hard to keep them working together.one would screw up and knock the whole system out.is rather tricky and i dont suggest it as a long term solution.

the first one works best tho.hopefully ill get some pics when i buy a cam.but i keep wanting other expensive parts and never have the $$$ for one.

[funko]

hehe yeah this isnt the most prudent hobby in terms of saving for retirement.... or anything for that matter... hehe

thanks for teh super quick and helpful reply man

[M@D OVERCLOCKER]

I agree that ocing is a question of luck and well thought system and ocing method.

Here are the specifications of the two systems I'm going to rebuild :

T Bred 1700+ JIUHB 0302 :

- Motherboard : Abit KG7

- Ram : 1*512Mb Corsair XMS PC3200 (not already bought)

- HDDs : 1*Maxtor 40Gb UDMA66 7200rpm + 1*Seagate 10Gb UDMA66 5400 or 7200 Rpm (??)

- Vidcard : noname SIS chipset 32Mb

- Sound : SB Live!Player 256

- NIC : SMC 1211TX 10/100

- CD : Samsung 50X

- CDRW : Yamaha 4416S + Adaptec 2904CD SCSI Card (I'm not sure to mount this, since my main system will have a LiteOn 52/24/52, and the SCSI card may be a limiting factor for ocing)

- CPU Cooling : Alpha Pal 8045T with Delta 80mm 80CFM+ set to blow in

- Case Cooling : 1*Adda 120mm 108.4CFM on left pannel (in front of the CPU) set to blow in ; 1*T&T 80mm on bottom front set to blow in (hooked on the mobo) ; 1*Sunon 80mm 31CFM on top rear under PSU set to blow out

- PSU : Powerwin 450Watts

- OS : Windows 2000 Server



T Bred 2100+ AUIHB 0249 or 0250 (still not sure about the stepping to get) :

- Motherboard : Abit NF7-S REV. 1.1 (not already bought)

- RAM : 2*256Mb Corsair XMS PC3500 (not already bought)

- HDDs : 1 or 2 Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 6Y080P0 80GB Ultra ATA/133 7200RPM w/8MB Buffer & Fluid Dynamic Bearing Motors (not already bought, If I go for 2 of those I'll run them in RAID 0 by using an optional ABIT Serillel IDE to Serial ATA Adapter Kit)

- Vidcard : Hercules 3D Prophet II GTS 64Mb

- Sound : Onboard

- NIC : Onboard

- DVD/CD : Samsung 16X/48X

- CDRW : LiteOn 52/24/52 Retail (Not already bought)

- CPU&Northbridge Cooling : DangerDen Maze 2 Waterblock for the CPU and DangerDen Waterblock for the North Bridge ; Aquacoil Cube Radiator with 2*ADDA 120mm 108.4CFM one blowin in one blowin out ; Maxijet 1000 Pump ; Home made reservoir (~1.5liters) ; another rad/fan+pump+reservoir for the NorthBridge.

Case/Case Cooling : Modded AMK OCD-810 Fulltower ; 2*ADDA 120mm 108.4CFM+2*YS-TECH 120mm 131.5CFM on left pannel set to blow in ; 1*ADDA 120mm 108.4CFM+1*3DCOOL 80mm 43CFM on bottom front set to blow in ; 2*Delta Black Label 60 mm 38CFM on the 2 lower 5"1/4 bays set to blow in ; 1*ADDA 120mm 108.4CFM+1*Sunon 80mm 42.5CFM on top of the case set to blow out ; 1*3DCOOL 80mm 43CFM outside of the case behind the CPU set to blow out ; 2*3DCOOL 80mm 43CFM+2*Sunon 80mm 42.5CFM on top of the PSU set to blow out.
All fans except the 80mm that is on bottom front and the 80mm that is behind the CPU will be connected to a DigitalDoc 3 and a Digital Doc 5 both 8 channels. All fans have inside and outside grills+filters (filters are only mounted on blowin in fans)

- PSUs : 1*Enermax 550Watts for the Digitaldocs/Fans ;

1*Antec TruePower True480 480W Power Supply Retail for CPU/Motherboard/DVD/CDRW/FDD/HDDs (not already bought)

- OSes: Multiboot : 98SE/2000Pro/XP Pro



I hope to be able to run the 1700+@1700 (10*170), and the 2100+@2Ghz or even 2.1Ghz (10*200/10*210 or other multiplier/FSB combinations).

[deathstar13]

i think you have the first abit mobo already and plan on buying the nf7 for the second.i highley advise you look into the a7n8x and the 8rda+ as replacements.

the abit NF2 has shown to be rather troublesome to oc.and lacks voltage options the 8rda has,and will need voltage mods aswill the asus a7n8x if you plan on heavy ocing.

[M@D OVERCLOCKER]

Originally posted by deathstar13
i think you have the first abit mobo already and plan on buying the nf7 for the second.i highley advise you look into the a7n8x and the 8rda+ as replacements.

the abit NF2 has shown to be rather troublesome to oc.and lacks voltage options the 8rda has,and will need voltage mods aswill the asus a7n8x if you plan on heavy ocing.

Yes, I already have the KG7 which was part of an existing system.

I don't like that much Asus, and I'm not convinced by A78NX trough all the reading I've done so far.

The Epox 8RDA+ is the mobo that made me doubt of staying on Abit, but after reading the Epox section on Amdmb.com Forums and a comparison shootout on 6 mobos (you can check it out
HERE , if you can't read french, just look at the charts) I've decided to stay on Abit. Why having such high voltages options if you can't use them safely?

If a Vmod is necessary (I'm doubting that I'll do it, looking at the fried chips thread I've read when using high voltages on T Breds), I have spare trimmers, clips, wire,.... left from my KR7A Raid VCore/VMem mods to perform a VCore mod without soldering on the mobo. I don't think a V Mem mod will be necessary using PC3500 Ram.