Notices

Overclockers Forums > Hardware > Cooling > Water Cooling
Water Cooling Discussion devoted to blocks, pumps, radiators, reservoirs, tubing, and everything else to get you running smooth on a water loop
Forum Jump

taps for fittings and screws

Post Reply New Thread Subscribe Search this Thread
 
 
Thread Tools
Old 03-05-03, 11:40 PM Thread Starter   #1
pokpok
Member



Join Date: Mar 2003

 
taps for fittings and screws


lets say i would use these for my waterblock fittings

i would use a 1/4" npt tap right? but i notice there are 1/4"- 18 and 1/4"-20 taps. would it matter which one i would use?

and

Machine screw sizes:4-40, 6-32, 8-32, 10-24, 10-32 and 12-24
what do those numbers mean?

thanks for the help
pokpok is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 03-05-03, 11:53 PM Thread Starter   #2
pokpok
Member



Join Date: Mar 2003

 
ok and lets say i will top it with something clear..ok ok dont get all ****y on me but if i were, which would be the strongest like not prone to cracking EASILY lexan, poly, or luctite

and i know sometimes the moving of barbs will crack a top...so how should hoses be properly pulled off the barbs? should i put some sort of lube on the fittings so it will be easier to pull off?

thnx again guys
pokpok is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 03-06-03, 12:25 AM   #3
fmah
Member



Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: USA

 
For machine screws, the number is the size, smaller numbers are smaller diameters, 4 is about 0.114" dia, 6 is around 0.136", 8 is like 0.166" ,etc.. then you hit 1/4" and from there they use the actual diameter for the sizing. The second number is the threads per inch. So 4-40 is #4 screw diameter with 40 threads per inch. You just match them up to the right nut so it will fit, and you choose the screw diameter size so it fits in the right hole. #6 is typical for the mounting holes in the fans

Lexan is a brand name for polycarbonate. Lucite is weaker I believe, it's what they make clear paperweights and awards and stuff like that with. Polycarb is for safety glass like bulletproof windows.
fmah is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 03-06-03, 12:29 AM   #4
fmah
Member



Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: USA

 
Oh yeah, the tap you use needs to match the thread on the fittings. Though I don't expect much difference between 18 and 20 threads per inch, but probably there is a more commonly used one around here. For thick or "soft" material you usually use lower threads per inch. For example, wood screws have a very coarse thread density.
fmah is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 03-06-03, 12:44 AM   #5
Stedeman
The Half Asleep Member

 
Stedeman's Avatar 

Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Lewiston Maine

 
the thread is not so much about the material you use but the grade of connection

__________________
My HEATWARE My eBay
Stedeman is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 03-06-03, 04:55 AM   #6
Diggrr
Underwater Senior Member

 
Diggrr's Avatar 

Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Gun Lake, MI. USA

10 Year Badge
 
Re: taps for fittings and screws


Quote:
Originally posted by pokpok
I would use a 1/4" npt tap right? but i notice there are 1/4"- 18 and 1/4"-20 taps. would it matter which one i would use?
1/4-20 NPT Pipe Tap.

__________________
Rig1: C2D E8400 @3510 Ф Asus P5G41T-M-LX Plus mobo Ф 8 Gigs Ballistix DDR3 1333 Ф Asus GT520 Silent Ф 4 Deep Cool 92mm case fans Ф FSP 1U 460 Watt PSU
External Watercooling: 40' Copper Coil Geothermal ground loop Ф Cooling modded MCP350 & MCP355 W/Swiftech white dual pump top Ф D-Tek Fuzion V2, 1/4"

Rig2: Via Esther C7 1.5 @ 1.65 Ф Jetway 7F2WE1G5D mITX mobo Ф 1 Gig Generic Ram (max) Ф 120 watt Pico PSU.

Life's Tragedy is that we get old too soon and wise too late. ~ Benjamin Franklin

Last edited by Diggrr; 03-06-03 at 05:07 AM.
Diggrr is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 03-06-03, 09:27 AM Thread Starter   #7
pokpok
Member



Join Date: Mar 2003

 
for waterblocks whats the suggested size for the screws?
pokpok is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 03-06-03, 04:21 PM   #8
Diggrr
Underwater Senior Member

 
Diggrr's Avatar 

Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Gun Lake, MI. USA

10 Year Badge
 
#8-32 threads per inch are what I use. Good adjustment, and the fine thread helps keep them from wandering loose. Some boards may not have holes large enough for screws any bigger diameter than #8. It's also an easy size to find the other parts for it, like nuts and stuff.

Oh, and sorry for my bad manners...Welcome to the forums!

__________________
Rig1: C2D E8400 @3510 Ф Asus P5G41T-M-LX Plus mobo Ф 8 Gigs Ballistix DDR3 1333 Ф Asus GT520 Silent Ф 4 Deep Cool 92mm case fans Ф FSP 1U 460 Watt PSU
External Watercooling: 40' Copper Coil Geothermal ground loop Ф Cooling modded MCP350 & MCP355 W/Swiftech white dual pump top Ф D-Tek Fuzion V2, 1/4"

Rig2: Via Esther C7 1.5 @ 1.65 Ф Jetway 7F2WE1G5D mITX mobo Ф 1 Gig Generic Ram (max) Ф 120 watt Pico PSU.

Life's Tragedy is that we get old too soon and wise too late. ~ Benjamin Franklin
Diggrr is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 03-06-03, 04:41 PM Thread Starter   #9
pokpok
Member



Join Date: Mar 2003

 
thanks

for 8-32 screw what size drill and tap would it need?

and for 1/4" - 20 tap its recommended that i use a 7/16" bit, and this is fine correct?
pokpok is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 03-06-03, 05:21 PM   #10
Zordan
Registered



Join Date: Jan 2002

 
for a 8-32 you need a #29 drill (.1360") for the tap drill
for the tap an 8-32.
clearance holes for 8-32 are between #18 (.1695") - #16 (.1770)

for a 1/4-20, the tap drill is a #7 (.201)
1/4-20 tap
clearance holes between letter F (.257) - letter H (.266)

and for pipe taps
1/4 npt a 7/16" drill for tapping

Last edited by Zordan; 03-06-03 at 05:27 PM.
Zordan is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 03-06-03, 06:03 PM Thread Starter   #11
pokpok
Member



Join Date: Mar 2003

 
Quote:
Originally posted by Zordan
for a 8-32 you need a #29 drill (.1360") for the tap drill
for the tap an 8-32.
clearance holes for 8-32 are between #18 (.1695") - #16 (.1770)

for a 1/4-20, the tap drill is a #7 (.201)
1/4-20 tap
clearance holes between letter F (.257) - letter H (.266)

and for pipe taps
1/4 npt a 7/16" drill for tapping
"for the tap drill for the tap an 8-32."

is a "tap drill" another name for the thing that makes the threads in. if not whats the difference between a tap drill and a drill? lol im all confused now

sorry for the questions i just want to make sure i know what im buying
pokpok is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 03-06-03, 07:25 PM   #12
LogicPaintball
New Member



Join Date: Mar 2003

 
The tap drill is the drill bit that you use to make the hole before you tap it.

The hole needs to be smaller than the finished thread size so that the tap can cut out some metal to form the threads.

Hope this helps.
LogicPaintball is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 03-06-03, 08:19 PM Thread Starter   #13
pokpok
Member



Join Date: Mar 2003

 
ok if i were to tap something would this be the order

drill>tap drill>then tap?

i stopped by home depot a while ago just so see the taps sizes, i didnt buy though. i noticed that the taps were sold along with the bits...are these the tap drills?

so

#1 for a 1/4-20, the tap drill is a #7 (.201)
1/4-20 tap
clearance holes between letter F (.257) - letter H (.266)


#2
and for pipe taps
1/4 npt a 7/16" drill for tapping


which one would i use for these

those are suitable for waterblock tops though right ?
pokpok is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 03-06-03, 08:29 PM   #14
LogicPaintball
New Member



Join Date: Mar 2003

 
The order is:

Drill hole with Tap Drill (Its just a regular drill bit), then tap.

For those hose barbs, you will need to drill a 7/16' hole, and tap the hole using a 1/4 NPT tap.

The NPT stands for National Pipe Thread.

For the smaller holes (to hold the two block halves together) I would try to find a thread forming tap.

This tap rolls the threads instead of cutting them. They work so much better in gummy metals (like copper), and will help you to not break the tap off in the metal.

For a #6 thread forming tap, you should drill an 1/8 hole.

Hope this helps.
LogicPaintball is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 03-06-03, 08:31 PM   #15
JFettig
Hey! I showered! Senior

 
JFettig's Avatar 

Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: MN

 
eek
this is messed, 1/4-20 is 1/4inch screw, 1/4npt is 1/2-18 with a 60some degree taper, much much different
I use 4-40 and 6-32 screws and taps, I have thread forming taps wich use larger holes but make threads TONS easier, and they are pretty much as good. they push the material rather than cut it.

__________________
||http://www.wc101.com - Watercooling101||
||http://jfettigmachines.com CNC kits||
JFettig is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 03-06-03, 08:34 PM   #16
JFettig
Hey! I showered! Senior

 
JFettig's Avatar 

Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: MN

 
also, when your tapping a 1/4NPT thread, you cannot go all the way thru, you only go as far as needed for the barb, as you tap deeper, the barb will screw in farther....

__________________
||http://www.wc101.com - Watercooling101||
||http://jfettigmachines.com CNC kits||
JFettig is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 03-06-03, 08:55 PM   #17
LogicPaintball
New Member



Join Date: Mar 2003

 
Good call on that on J.

I forgot to say that the NPT threads are tapered (So they will seal).

You should run the tap into the top until the bottom of the tap just peeks out of the bottom of the hole.

If you run the tap into the hole too far, the barb won't seal, and you will have a leaky top (bummer )

Make sure that you are running the taps into the block squarely, otherwise your barbs will stick out at funny angles.

Have fun.
LogicPaintball is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 03-06-03, 08:57 PM Thread Starter   #18
pokpok
Member



Join Date: Mar 2003

 
alright thanks for the the help guys i really apreciate it
pokpok is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 09-24-03, 10:48 PM   #19
Nanidin
Member

 
Nanidin's Avatar 

Join Date: Jul 2003

 
Quote:
Originally posted by JFettig
eek
this is messed, 1/4-20 is 1/4inch screw, 1/4npt is 1/2-18 with a 60some degree taper, much much different
I use 4-40 and 6-32 screws and taps, I have thread forming taps wich use larger holes but make threads TONS easier, and they are pretty much as good. they push the material rather than cut it.
what do you use to seal your blocks? Should you tap all the way through if you wanted to use screws to seal rather than nuts and bolts without threads?
Nanidin is offline   QUOTE Thanks

Post Reply New Thread Subscribe


Overclockers Forums > Hardware > Cooling > Water Cooling
Water Cooling Discussion devoted to blocks, pumps, radiators, reservoirs, tubing, and everything else to get you running smooth on a water loop
Forum Jump

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search


Mobile Skin
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:43 AM.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
You can add these icons by updating your profile information to include your Heatware ID, Benching Profile ID or your Folding/SETI profile ID. Edit your profile!
X

Welcome to Overclockers.com

Create your username to jump into the discussion!

New members like you have made this the best community on the Internet since 1998!


(4 digit year)

Why Join Us?

  • Share experience
  • Max out your hardware
  • Best forum members anywhere
  • Customized forum experience

Already a member?