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New block Idea

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TheGhengisKhan

BANNED TROLL -Per Silversinksam
Joined
Jul 2, 2002
Location
Newport News, Virginia
I know this has probably been done (are there any truely NEW ideas in water-cooling anymore?)
but I'm posting here to show the block that I'm currently working on. (I'm stepping out to the garage to begin working on it after I post this)

First off, here's a render of the block from 3DstudioMax (I use it to brainstorm on ideas)
cyclone1.jpg


picture description:

1.) small grooves in a spiral shape from center cone to start water spinning in a circular motion (increase turbulance)
2.) Lexan disk in center is attached to end of water input barb
3.) Lexan top chamber with barb comming off side at an angle for the water output (set to continue the circular water-flow)

water flow description:
1.) water flows in center over small cone on bottom of block
2.) water is set in a CW spin from grooves on center cone
3.) water flows to outside edge (centrifugal force from the spin)
4.) water flows to top chamber past the edge of the disk (aprox. 1/8" space all the way around)
5.) water continues CW spin around top chamber, and flows out through barb in the side.

This is all going in my setup with the 642gph Rio pump


I want feedback, but only if you have something constructive to say (please no "that design sucks" without an explanation as to why it would suck)
 
it's basicly a Lexan version of the copper bottom, turned upside down, with a hole in the center where the barb comes down to the little disk leaving a round chamber in the top, and the output barb will be comming off the side of it. I'll draw some pictures up in Photoshop (better with that than 3DstudioMax) and post back.
 
OK, here's something I threw together in photoshop real quick to explain a little better the idea behind the top part of the block
cyclonecutaway.gif


the top part is a top-down cut-away view so you can see how the side barb will come off the block.
the bottom part is a side-view cut-away to better show how the top chamber will be shaped.
 
I was gonna make a block like that! but with 2 inlets and 1 outlet, a cone in the middle simlar to yours! Im thinking itll work great! I was gonna have gone_fishin lathe it for me. but then I just never got to it.
it should work real good, very high turbleince, and high flow.

so the inlet is in the side and outlet is in the center?
it has been done very similar a few times, but not with the center cone.

Jon
 
no, other way around, inlet in the center with a spiral on the cone to start water spinning, and outlet on the side to pull the water out in the same spinning motion.
 
its not gonna start spinning. at least I dont see how it would....
 
it will:
small grooves in a spiral shape from center cone to start water spinning in a circular motion (increase turbula

it looks like a very interesting design, but those "grooves" are gonna be pretty hard to make.
 
Cheesy Peas said:
those "grooves" are gonna be pretty hard to make.
I've practiced on several scrap pieces of copper and have gotten the method down pretty well to be able to do it with my dremel-type tool

I just use the little round head metal grinder, and in a circular motion, curve it down and around from the center out. This leaves little ridges with curved grooves forming the spiral. Looks kinda like a drill-bit head with 10-12 edges. Once I get my digital camera back (little accident that broke the lens) I'll take a couple pics of one of the test spirals so you can see what I mean, but it's basicly little curved divits in the sides of the cone.
 
I'll give it a shot, but by the way it's designed, I think that it would perform better with the coolest water being applied to the cone in the center.
 
JFettig said:
you gotta test the side inlet too:)

quote from original post:
2.) Lexan disk in center is attached to end of water input barb

:D
Inlet is center, water exits the inlet below the disk, water goes up around the edge of the disk then the outlet is right next to the inlet but water enters it above the disk.;)
 
Thx, CrashOveride
Craftsman power-drill, a Black&Decker RTX rotery tool, a decent imagination, and a steady hand can come up with some pretty good water-blocks as I've seen time-and-time again on these forums ;)

And Junkymagi,
the inlet is below the disk, the disk is attached at the center to the inlet barb.
 
That has to rank among the top in the “I have way to much free time on my hands” category. It is a pretty interesting design. Let us know how it works.
Godcandy
 
I have been brainstorming designs for a while now and the next one I want to make is almost EXACTLY like what you posted in the first pic, minus the spiral part.

I am just finishing finals in two days, so hopefully I will have a chance to have a CNC mill up some of my designs, keep us posted on how this goes.

What is your approximate dimensions for the base plate thickness and cone, if you know them? it looks kinda large (from the pics) and I was thinking of a really small cone or a "ridge" kind of, but it would be hard to make w/o a CNC.

anyway it looks good, awaiting results....
 
the pictures are a little decieving as for size.
the copper block is only 1/4" thick
and I used a dime to mark the circle for the cone on the block before I started grinding on it, and the peak of the cone is about half the height of the whole block, so it's about 1/8" thickness.
 
its good but if possible change the desighn so you can make that center cone area more flat to decrease resistance
 
more flat = more resistance
kind of like a T connector as opposed to a Y connector, the sharper the turn that the water has to make, the more back pressure is created, plus with the cone the way it is, it creates more surface area for the heat to dissapate from.
 
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