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help, white bubles

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Old 06-01-03, 03:24 PM Thread Starter   #1
therudyq3
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help, white bubles


Well I got my new WC set up leak testing today. the water wetter & distilled water looks like a faint pinkish.

once I turn on the pump, I see tons of white bubbles. As a matter of fact the color in the tube is almost entorely WHITE from the bubbles. The water wetter is no longet pinkish but now looks kinda faint clear.

I can see, because of the bubble, that the water is moving rapidly through out the system.

Should I be concern? will this clear up? The bubles really show a vortex water action pattern.

It doesn't even look pinkish. 1 Litre of water per 1 ounce of water wetter right?

Thx
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Old 06-01-03, 03:43 PM   #2
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Youu should definatley bleed all the air out of the system. It will cause poor perfomance if you just leave it.

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Old 06-01-03, 03:54 PM Thread Starter   #3
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bleed?


how do I do that? because I use a reservoir...does the res have to be completely fill with water?
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Old 06-01-03, 03:57 PM Thread Starter   #4
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I was wondering if this is the reason...

I have a radiator with 5/8" I/O and the rest of the system is 1/2".

Therefore into the rad and out of the rad I have 1/2 tubes connected to 5/8" tubes using barbs.

could this be the reason?

did I not put enough water wetter in there? cuz it's CLEAR WHITE WITH BUBBLES
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Old 06-01-03, 04:09 PM   #5
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well what kit did you get?

Also, The latest fad is to STRETCH the 1/2" tubing over the 5/8" Radiator connections by heating a bit of the tubing up with hot tap water and maybe some dish washing liquid as it is very lubricative.

Yeah, that rad connection COULD be spitting bubbles into the system, + it is not really needed so you can go ahead and get rid of it and try stretching the tubing as I described before...

Also, make sure the top is off the resivour so the air can totally escape from the system and check all your connections.
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Old 06-01-03, 04:19 PM Thread Starter   #6
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iNsiGma...here's what I have:

Lydor L30 pump 1/2" fitting
Maze3 1/2 fitting
Bay res
Chevy Caprice Rad 10 1/2" X 5 3/4" X 2" with 5/8" I/O

I used 5/8" tubes going into and out of the rad. I then connect them with barbs and 1/2" tubes so that they can fit in.

maybe the water coming out of the rad (5/8) is then splitting into 1/2" through a barb reducer, thus giving it bubbles.

The res is not 100 % full. so I opened the res and allow air to escape...but so far I'm not sure if it's working.

Maybe it might have soemthing to do with the fabric whiter/brighter I added earlier. It has detergent. But I flushed the system of it already.....
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Old 06-01-03, 04:28 PM   #7
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I have a Bay Res too and I had to fill it all the way up. If I didn't I noticed the pump would cause a little whirlpool effect on the outlet side of the res and suck bubbles back into my system.

I had to actually tilt my case to fill it up as far as I could. As far as leaving the fill plug opening I don't think that will affect it. The air should go to the top whether it is open or closed.

The Bay Res looks cool and is well made but I think it would be better to have a res where the outlet is lower than the inlet.
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Old 06-01-03, 04:33 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by jbox33
I have a Bay Res too and I had to fill it all the way up. If I didn't I noticed the pump would cause a little whirlpool effect on the outlet side of the res and suck bubbles back into my system.

I had to actually tilt my case to fill it up as far as I could. As far as leaving the fill plug opening I don't think that will affect it. The air should go to the top whether it is open or closed.

The Bay Res looks cool and is well made but I think it would be better to have a res where the outlet is lower than the inlet.
Yeah but if there is extra air, its better to let it escape so that you can pour in more water to displace it... long story if you don't know what I mean but you don't have to open the thing up
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Old 06-01-03, 08:01 PM   #9
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You can change size all you want, it won't put any more air in there that isn't there allready!

If the little white bubbles look more like a big white foam in spots that dosen't clear by tomorrow morning, you'll need to take it apart.

Do this... It's a pain to do, but you can either fill the entire thing up outside the case where you can turn it around and get the air out. Then mount it if you can.

Or you can drain the water, fill the radiator completely up with water on both ends (funnel greatly helps) and the CPU block. Then connect those together, then the pump.

If you have some strong clamps to hold water where you allready have it, you can do that if it helps.

The main this is get the heatercore filled and don't let ANY air in it!
It WILL NOT ever cycle back out if enough get in there to interupt the flow.

**********

Either fill it all before, or fill the res and block before you do your final watering and clamp them off. (what I do) Then finish connecting everything and filling with water.

I've found that to be the easyest way for me, guess you can try it.

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Old 06-01-03, 10:55 PM Thread Starter   #10
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so I guess the moral of the story here is that....make sure u can fill the system with ALL water if u can...which may be hard

by the way...stupid question here...on the bay res..which side is inlet and which is outlet?

same question goes to for the maze3...is the inlet the barb that sits in the middle of the maze3 or the barb sist at the edge? common sense tells me u want the inlet to be the one sists in the middle of the block

Thax again
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Old 06-01-03, 10:56 PM Thread Starter   #11
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Do I need to make all tubeing one size? I wasn't clear on this issue because I think that going from 5/8 into a 1/2 via a barb reducer may cause some 'vortex" spitting action which causes bubles
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Old 06-01-03, 11:50 PM   #12
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The secret is to use straight water until the bubbles are gone. Then add your additive.
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Old 06-01-03, 11:58 PM Thread Starter   #13
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u mean add my water wetter and dye afterward??...hhmmm ..I guess I would have room for 2 or 3 ounces of water wetter.
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Old 06-02-03, 08:07 PM Thread Starter   #14
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I can't seem to get the bubbles out...do I just let the pump runs for a while using a t-line and leave it open so that the air can escape?
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Old 06-02-03, 08:16 PM Thread Starter   #15
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well I got it!!...but now my hydor is leaking at the outlet because I'm using an elbow instead of the original barb that came with the pump.
when the pump stands up and with the tube, it's just too high. Thus I went out and got an elbow. And even with an O-ring, it's still leaking...I don't know whu
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Old 06-02-03, 08:17 PM   #16
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The easiest way to make sure the parts are filled with water and not air is to use a bowl of water or such and submerge the block then attach the hoses. I know this does not work for everyone but it was very easy for me.

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Old 06-02-03, 10:37 PM   #17
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i have a maxijet, but i reinforced the connections with plumbers goop.
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Old 06-03-03, 12:11 AM Thread Starter   #18
therudyq3
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what's plumber's goop? is it an adhesive??

well I had to use an elbow instead of the original barb that came with the pump so that's why it leaks.

I just found out there's a thing called teflon thread sealant tape which can be had for aound a buck. You just wrap it around the thread and tightened it. So I'll give it a try tomorrow.

thx
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