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Wall A/C unit powering question

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TheGhengisKhan

BANNED TROLL -Per Silversinksam
Joined
Jul 2, 2002
Location
Newport News, Virginia
I've got an old A/C unit from work that they were throwing away because the switch on the front of it went bad!!!!

Here's a shot of the label on the condensor:

gkscondensor.jpg


If you can't see the picture, the label reads:
Part# 617-165-22
[SUPERO]
QK134CAB R-22
1Ph 60Hz 115V LRA46 (what's the LRA?)

since it's single phase, 60Hz, and 115V, does this mean that I can just take the cord from the condensor and connect a 3 prong plug to it and plug it straight into the wall for it to work? (I would install a switch to turn it on and off)

If not, how would I go about powering it?

and finaly is anyone able to help me figure out the stats on this thing? like BTU's, etc, etc.
 
naw you cant just plug it into a wall outlet. There is a large capacitor that you will need to get and you will have to splice that in the AC line for the compressor to be able to work. You can try and pick up a run capacitor at any hvac repair shop, or atleast they can order one for you. It will be about $25.
 
oh god, I wish I can upload this diagram for you.


the cap should have 2 pins on it, you should connection one pin to pin R on the compressor, if its not labeled on your compressor then I think it should be the 2nd pin closest to the compressors center. The other pin on the cap should be connected to pin S on the compressor, it should be the pin farthest away from the compressors center. After that for the AC line there will be a Green, White and Black wire. The black wire will connect to pin C on the compressor, this is the pin closest to the compressor center. The white wire will connect somewhere embetween R and the capacitor, it doesnt matter where. The green is the ground and it doesnt need to go anywhere. If you dont have it right then you will just blow a fuse, it wont blow up on your or anything. If you still dont get it I can email you a diagram.
 
man I cant tell from the pic if thats a rotory compressor or not, is the compressor round or oval? if its oval I will need to make new instruction:(
 
ok, word of warning to anyone else who picks up a window A/C unit for a phase-change setup:
Take it completely apart before making sure it works so that your spouce/partner doesn't say what mine did "ohh, thank you honey, now we have a working A/C unit for the livingroom"
:cry: :cry: :cry:
 
TheGhengisKhan said:
ok, word of warning to anyone else who picks up a window A/C unit for a phase-change setup:
Take it completely apart before making sure it works so that your spouce/partner doesn't say what mine did "ohh, thank you honey, now we have a working A/C unit for the livingroom"
:cry: :cry: :cry:


hahahah been there before :rolleyes:
 
I have run a chilled water setup with a small dorm room fridge, it appears to have a very similar compressor to yours,
(sorry no camera yet)

its made by lg electronics
nsa24lacg (compressor)
hse02wnaww (entire fridge)

it will come up ridiculously high $, on googles third page,
google returned this:
Haier Compact Refirgerator/Freezers (dorm room size) Reg. $79.00 Now $39.50. Model # HSE02WNAWW UPC# 4 90720 10521 3 Thanks Mary (sure thats clearance or sale price)

buy it from target :) , even though I hate them, and
work there ;)

anyways, it ALSO says that funky:

1PH (im assuming horsepower backwards, which is GREAT)
115V (duuuuh volts )
60Hz (freak-wincy ;P )
LRA 4.60 (some rating as to its gasses? im not sure of..)

its charged with r134a.. and to finally answer you..
I managed a best of 8c using it, normally around 11-21c
(damned early abit bios'es) so in closing i think its a very nice compressor. You gotta ask the wizards as to how many watts it can handle though sorry!

personally I think the compressor alone is worth the meager 40 bones if anyone can ever find it on sale like that jump on it, its an entire phase change setup waiting for you :)

hi to everyone in the forums, been reading since the days of amd k6's and scour :) (anyone remember what that is ?)
 
the 1Ph 60Hz 115V stands for single-phase, 60 Hertz, 115 Volts of A/C power. but I found a label on the A/C unit that gave the stats of it. The thing is a 20,000BTU, 1 & 1/2 Horsepower, and is charged with R-22 coolant. but as I posted above, I'm not using this in a phase-change setup due to my wife walking in just as I got the thing running and blowing cold air (put frost on the metal frame near the vents after only 30 seconds) and it became a window-A/C unit for our house. I'm still keeping an eye out at work for them to be throwing another one in the trash.
 
Is the innards to a mini-fridge like the one Spade talked about adaquate for waterchilling? like, not to chill a large reservoir, but mearly all the water it takes to fill a reservoir the size of the Evaporator coils. I wish i could post the pix of what i want to do...i am making an external unit to house the control systems, reservoir and condensor coils. about 1-1/2" to 2-1/2" at it's widest, being the length and height of the side of my TALL computer case. I was planning on using sheet aluminum or reinforced plexi-glass. I was hoping to stick the compressor and cr@p inside the case, and run the plumbing through the side to the external unit. I have been in a pickle, because i need LOW POWER CONSUMPTION and LOW HEAT OUTPUT, otherwise my dad wont let me make it [do u know how tantalizing that 18,000BTU a/c in the garage is...>_<].

So...does a (or ^that^) minifridge: a) have enough "oomph", b) use little power and c) throw neglegable amounts of heat into the room?

THANKS IN ADVANCE!
 
I think a mini fridge is definately an option, just make sure to insulate against condensation, plus insulation will help you get your temps as low as they possibly can be. (hoses, reservoir, mobo, etc.) I'd guess I got lucky with mine, and its ok for about 100 watts heat dissipation,maybe just a little more. You want to look for the largest horsepower compressor you can afford (and afford to pay for running it!)
alternatively, you can get a general idea by the LRA rating, higher being better. Seemed to do ok for me with 4.60, and a full fridge compressor was 10.0. I was wrong about the PH being horsepower, figured that out, thanks TheGhengisKhan.
I'm a definate N00b to phase change here..
 
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