ON stock CHevette 87 heatercore question help

vietp13 · 06-26-03, 11:14 AM

is there a way to make both of the barbs same size btw.. the bigger barb is 1/2 right ? so that means... i have to buy 1/2 od tubbing ?

Shroomer · 06-26-03, 11:17 AM

Sorry, way off. The barbs on the chevette are 5/8 and 3/4. You will want to use 1/2" ID tubing (unless you re using a swiftech kit or something), So you want 1/2" barbs. It's a simple matter of mixing some JB weld and ploping them in the holes. Might want to cut the tubes to size, though.

vietp13 · 06-26-03, 11:25 AM

so what.. cut off the 2 barbs to near the bottom of it.. and get wat type of barbs to weld back on and what kind of welder do i need..

Shroomer · 06-26-03, 01:05 PM

It's epoxy... called JB weld. It's metal based and very strong. It comes in two parts that you mix together. I use 1/2" to 1/2" barb splicers, however I think that I would use a 1/2" to 5/8" barb splicer on the 3/4" pipe to make things easier. I just slather the outside of the splicer and pop it in. You have to keep in mind that the stuff will want to run, so maybe try it first on a piece of pipe that you cut off.

vietp13 · 06-26-03, 01:19 PM

can you link me on where to get these products ?

Shroomer · 06-26-03, 01:50 PM

Even Wal-Mart has JB weld. I think it's in automotive. Lowes and Home Depot will have the Barb splicers (as well as the JB weld). Plumber's Goop (brand name adhesive) might do the trick but wouldn't be as strong.

vietp13 · 06-26-03, 02:45 PM

so what do jb weld do... ?

rogerdugans · 06-26-03, 03:35 PM

JB Weld is ......Wonderful

It is an epoxy that can be machined, etc., just like steel.

You squeeze equal amounts from both tubes, mix and apply.
Simple

It bonds to just about everything and is available in at LEAST two varieties that I have seen:
JB Weld
JB Kwik

Both should be cured for 24 hours.
JB Weld takes a while to "set"- cure enough to stop running
JB Kwik takes about 5 minutes to set. About 10 to be pretty solid.

I would trust JB Weld more for strength and durabilty but the Kwik is nice for gaps and to get things positioned where you want.

vietp13 · 06-26-03, 04:58 PM

can i use my dads steel saw cutter to cut off the barbs and use the jb weld to get the new barb splicers on and about hwo mcuh do these cost btw

Shroomer · 06-26-03, 05:26 PM

I just use a hack saw to cut off the tubes. Barb splicers should be less than $3 a piece. If you get plastic ones they should be less than $2.

vietp13 · 06-26-03, 05:32 PM

WOOT WOOT thank you soooo much guys...

Shroomer · 06-26-03, 05:46 PM

Still be careful, though. Go slow and do it right the first time. If something feels wrong, then come right back here and ask. Be careful of those fins as they are easily damaged.

Again, might want to get an extra adaptor to get a feel for epoxying it into the tubes that you cut off. Better to practice than to screw up the core.

Oh, and be generous with the JB Weld... But not so much that it runs down into the core.

I really hope I haven't confused or discouraged you with this post. Just some things to think about.

Good luck, man. I've done 2 now with no leaks.

vietp13 · 06-26-03, 07:45 PM

na you havent i just got this for free so hey wat the heck right..

06-26-03, 11:14 AM	Thread Starter #1
vietp13 Member Join Date: Mar 2003	ON stock CHevette 87 heatercore question help is there a way to make both of the barbs same size btw.. the bigger barb is 1/2 right ? so that means... i have to buy 1/2 od tubbing ?
	QUOTE Thanks

06-26-03, 11:17 AM	#2
Shroomer member with no avatar Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Ohio	Sorry, way off. The barbs on the chevette are 5/8 and 3/4. You will want to use 1/2" ID tubing (unless you re using a swiftech kit or something), So you want 1/2" barbs. It's a simple matter of mixing some JB weld and ploping them in the holes. Might want to cut the tubes to size, though.
	QUOTE Thanks

06-26-03, 11:25 AM	Thread Starter #3
vietp13 Member Join Date: Mar 2003	so what.. cut off the 2 barbs to near the bottom of it.. and get wat type of barbs to weld back on and what kind of welder do i need..
	QUOTE Thanks

06-26-03, 01:05 PM	#4
Shroomer member with no avatar Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Ohio	It's epoxy... called JB weld. It's metal based and very strong. It comes in two parts that you mix together. I use 1/2" to 1/2" barb splicers, however I think that I would use a 1/2" to 5/8" barb splicer on the 3/4" pipe to make things easier. I just slather the outside of the splicer and pop it in. You have to keep in mind that the stuff will want to run, so maybe try it first on a piece of pipe that you cut off.
	QUOTE Thanks

06-26-03, 01:19 PM	Thread Starter #5
vietp13 Member Join Date: Mar 2003	can you link me on where to get these products ?
	QUOTE Thanks

ON stock CHevette 87 heatercore question help

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06-26-03, 01:50 PM	#6
Shroomer member with no avatar Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Ohio	Even Wal-Mart has JB weld. I think it's in automotive. Lowes and Home Depot will have the Barb splicers (as well as the JB weld). Plumber's Goop (brand name adhesive) might do the trick but wouldn't be as strong.
	QUOTE Thanks

06-26-03, 02:45 PM	Thread Starter #7
vietp13 Member Join Date: Mar 2003	so what do jb weld do... ?
	QUOTE Thanks

06-26-03, 03:35 PM	#8
rogerdugans Linux challenged Senior, not that it stops me... Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Corner of No and Where	JB Weld is ......Wonderful It is an epoxy that can be machined, etc., just like steel. You squeeze equal amounts from both tubes, mix and apply. Simple It bonds to just about everything and is available in at LEAST two varieties that I have seen: JB Weld JB Kwik Both should be cured for 24 hours. JB Weld takes a while to "set"- cure enough to stop running JB Kwik takes about 5 minutes to set. About 10 to be pretty solid. I would trust JB Weld more for strength and durabilty but the Kwik is nice for gaps and to get things positioned where you want. __________________ Still overclocked and running linux on watercooled computers after all these years.
	QUOTE Thanks

06-26-03, 04:58 PM	Thread Starter #9
vietp13 Member Join Date: Mar 2003	can i use my dads steel saw cutter to cut off the barbs and use the jb weld to get the new barb splicers on and about hwo mcuh do these cost btw
	QUOTE Thanks

06-26-03, 05:26 PM	#10
Shroomer member with no avatar Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Ohio	I just use a hack saw to cut off the tubes. Barb splicers should be less than $3 a piece. If you get plastic ones they should be less than $2.
	QUOTE Thanks

06-26-03, 05:32 PM	Thread Starter #11
vietp13 Member Join Date: Mar 2003	WOOT WOOT thank you soooo much guys...
	QUOTE Thanks

06-26-03, 05:46 PM	#12
Shroomer member with no avatar Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Ohio	Still be careful, though. Go slow and do it right the first time. If something feels wrong, then come right back here and ask. Be careful of those fins as they are easily damaged. Again, might want to get an extra adaptor to get a feel for epoxying it into the tubes that you cut off. Better to practice than to screw up the core. Oh, and be generous with the JB Weld... But not so much that it runs down into the core. I really hope I haven't confused or discouraged you with this post. Just some things to think about. Good luck, man. I've done 2 now with no leaks.
	QUOTE Thanks

06-26-03, 07:45 PM	Thread Starter #13
vietp13 Member Join Date: Mar 2003	na you havent i just got this for free so hey wat the heck right..
	QUOTE Thanks

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