Cap Question!!!

I just recently recieved a Ti-4200 (free!!!) from a friend who is an even bigger noob than I am!....He accidentally knocked a cap out of place with his shoe (clipped it off.)So I'm going to fix it for myself now.I has no visible brand, and the heatsink/fan sucks.The mem also has no heatsinks.But most importantly, I have to get another 1500 uF, 6.3v cap.Can I use a cap from my old psu (very weird mod eh?) with 2200uF and like 10wv-whatever wv means? Does that work out well?

uhh what?

dont even bother with it tho. if you plan to put it in the rig in your sig, it might not make a big performance difference

Oh no...I plan to sell it to someone if I can get it into quality condition...or be a back-up.

Will Eatforfood said:

I just recently recieved a Ti-4200 (free!!!) from a friend who is an even bigger noob than I am!....He accidentally knocked a cap out of place with his shoe (clipped it off.)So I'm going to fix it for myself now.I has no visible brand, and the heatsink/fan sucks.The mem also has no heatsinks.But most importantly, I have to get another 1500 uF, 6.3v cap.Can I use a cap from my old psu (very weird mod eh?) with 2200uF and like 10wv-whatever wv means? Does that work out well?

Click to expand...

No, it probably won't work. You need to match the capacitance rating (that uF part), and equal or exceed the voltage rating.

What carnil said is true. It should not work.

If you're going to replace the capacitor, you'll want to have the same uF value (1500 micro-farad), a voltage rating of at least what the old one had (I'd go with the same if possible to be safe), and you'll want to be sure that if it's electrolytic, that you replace it with another electrolytic capacitor.

Look at this thread for more information (he's also thinking of replacing a cap)....
JigPu

rswww.com

^^ Go buy some - I'm sure they have the one you want

They GFx card will almost certainly work if it han't been powered on after the cap has been knocked off - but make sure you put the new one in the right way round

Wow!!!!!Amazing!!!I figured it was a throw-away, so I used the 2200 microfarads cap anyways.(I researched first and found out that with electrolytic caps, you can overdo the capacitance and volt by 20-100% without worry, and 2200 out of 1500 uF was only 49 percent.....Anyway, I just soldered it in, and it works great!Viewing this page with it.....Played WC3 with too!!!!!Sweet!!!!!!!!!I wonder of any long-term effects, although two articles and 4 ppl said it was okay.

Hmmmm... Cool to know that it worked... Ill remember it incase I need to replace one

That's awesome man I'd love to recieve a card in that condition for free, and then get it to work!

Congrats on the successful 'mod'
JigPu

Ooh boy...second problem to take care of.The heat ..........I wonder if mosts Ti-4200's are this hot....I made my own little fanwich thing with an 80mm fan attached to the heatsink which is on the gpu, and the stock fan is on the backside.I'd show you wonderful ppl, except, I don't feel like opening the case again, and taking webcam pics. Now there are also memory that needs heatsinks!Wc3 was okay.....but I'm scared to do UT03 on it..... It might just blow with no memsinks.If it does Ut well, I'll oc the hizzy out of it......or not....It was free, so I should cherish it...........or not.hehe..It really my first time doing something this complicated, so I just use store-brand conductive glue.......I hear AS is very good!However, I had an experiance with a mobo northbridge, that just would let it's heatsink go, so out came the chip with the sink(ruined).Even with the chip out, I still couldn't get the hs off!(hammer,pliers,drill).So I don't want AS to be permanent.Is it hard to take off?

I can't say anything on how hot those cards are (never had one), but the worst it should do to your card if it's too hot is make it artifact. If it does, then you might underclock it a bit to make it stable.

As for AS, yes it's very good compared to silicone goop, and is just as easy to remove. Your northbridge HS probably used some kind of thermal epoxy or thernal pad which was sticky, which is why you couldn't get it out. AS 'holds' so poorly, that if you don't use SOMETHING to hold the heatink on (a clip, retention screws, a very small dot of superglue) then it will fall right off

JigPu

Wee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!I've just experienced an insane joy!!!!Now I'm not hardcore, so I've only owned a Riva128zx(wonderful stuff- no matter what you say),TNT2(wow),Radeon9000p(I don't like it too much), but that was just awesome. Fixed a throwaway card that artifacted every five minutes to a monster that just got solid frames in Ut03 (real version-not demo), and went back to Windows without crashing or heating up!!!!.......The only con is I can't switch back to 800x600 res after switching to another without restarting the machine (in the same power-up), and at 16 colors, there are few small dots, but hey, the only res I usually use is 800x600, since the higher up ones make everything small..The five hours of frustration on wondering why it didn't work, then finding out the cap's positive side was disconnected, fixing it and cooling it were all worth it!!!!