which is better at conductivity?

Which is better, the silver 'ink' in a conductive pen or the rear window defogger repair paint? Seems that my duron won't unlock with pencil graphite or the defogger paint anymore. I had it unlocked and running at 933 mhz the other day, but it simply wont unlock anymore.

I used that pencil trick at first... First, no luck. Then I got the 5, 5.5, 7, 7.5, etc. multipliers unlocked and they didn't work well.
After that, I applied some silverpaint on the bridges using a toothpick. Works like a charm now.

Definitely silverpaint is better... Altough it's really expensive, a 3g potion is like $15 here in Finland. But it lasts and lasts forever for this use.

Thanks for the info. That seems to be my problem as well. I got it unlocked once with pencil lead, and the multipliers would work some of the time. I guess I'll have to get a conductive pen. Here in the States, Radio Shack sells the Circuit Writer for 9.99 USD and the Gold Writer is 15ish.

Conductivity is not a problem with either of the 'silver ink' or the 'defogger' products as the current across the L1 bridges is not excptionally high

unseenmenace.... can you tell me what could be the cause for my inability to unlock this thing? I've tried everything! I do know it is capable, for i have had it unlocked once.

Each technique has its own problems..

Pencil
It is the lead in the pencil that conducts the electricity however some graphic art pencils have no lead content.. The best pencil to use apparently is a 2B and use a liberal amount of pressure.. you do need a fair amount of lead for success normally.
Defogger
Wile this is the preferred choice of most people due to cost, ease of use considerations, However it can take a while to dry and can be difficult to control.
Silver
Some people confuse silver content ink with metallic ink.. which is different the latter is only colored and the cost prohibits use of this for most people.
Solder
A permanent solution which obviously depends upon your soldering skills.

All I can suggest is unlock using a magnifying glass to view the bridges and when unlocked place a small sticker over the bridges which will stop them from becoming unlocked due to the heatsink or anything else rubbing them. I personally unlock twice.. meaning I do the bridges once .. go and have something to eat and upon my return examine them and touch up under the eye glass.. I personally suggest defogger.. but it is a personal opinion

URLS That might be of use to you.

How to Solder the L1 Bridges
Conductive Ink Tip for Non-Surgeons
L1 Pencil Problems
Unlocking The Duron

Hope this helps - Good luck

Could heat be the cause for it not to want to overclock? I noticed that it is idling 2 to 3 degrees higher than it usually does. The only way I can overclock it at the moment is via FSB. Also, is it possible to damage the clock multipliers on a chip? The processor seems to work fine, it just doesnt seem to be unlocked...however when set the multipliers lower than 6.5 (6.5 is the default core multiplier) it will run at that, ie, 500 or 550 mhz. And when I set it to 9x100 it boots and runs at 500 mhz. What could all of this mean? I have defogger paint on it now, so the L1 should be well connected.

Sounds like what I was having with the pencil trick, the bridges being not completely covered. I doubt that this is the case with you, tho.

And stay away from the solder, it's the worst way of unlocking the chip, due to the HUGE amounts of heat needed.

If you know someone who's repairing monitors, etc, they might have that silverpaint. I used my step-fathers silverpaint.
He said that you can run a current thru it, but cannot measure it with a voltage meter. Quite odd, we both thought. It works, so no problemo.

silver is more conductive than even copper so I went with the pen from the shack and it comes from a company www.caig.com if you want more info.