How do I read this English Vernier scale?

I have this English Vernier caliper:



The vernier scale at the top has 9 markings. It has one pointer on the bottom.

About the 16 and 32: at the end of the rule, there is a 16 next to the top scale, and a 32 next to the bottom scale. This means the top scale with the vernier is 1/16ths, and the bottoms scale with the pointer is 1/32nds. I want to use this caliper when I build my waterblocks, but could someone please tell me how to read it? I know how to read a metric vernier scale, but this is so different.

and this is why I buy dial calipers instead........

Each marking in the little oval view is a 1/32" increment or 1/16. Just add those numbers to the whole numbers on the outside of the oval view, and you'll get your measurement........however......I strongly recommend investing into a dial caliper, they arent too expensive and make a world of difference in accuracy and ease of reading

Not sure if this will help you but this site comes in handy for just about all conversions I have needed. Hope it helps.

Linky

I'm not sure how to help you but the top is inches and the bottom is millimeters. Thats about all I can offer you. Sorry

Each marking in the little oval view is a 1/32" increment or 1/16. Just add those numbers to the whole numbers on the outside of the oval view, and you'll get your measurement........however......I strongly recommend investing into a dial caliper, they arent too expensive and make a world of difference in accuracy and ease of reading

Click to expand...

That's true for the bottom markings, but the top markings are the vernier scale, which is what I am asking about.

the top is inches and the bottom is millimeters

Click to expand...

Both the top and bottom are inches. The top is divided into 1/16ths and the bottom is divided into 1/32nds.

You pick the one that's lined up between the index marks and the slide marks, in the pic it'd be the 3rd one, hence, add 3/16ths to the other reading.
My micrometers read similarly for the ten-thousanths scale, with the same type of marks around the barrel.

It looks like some notches are missing on that 32nds scale (like, all but one).

Like I said, there is only one notch on the 32nds scale.

You pick the one that's lined up between the index marks and the slide marks, in the pic it'd be the 3rd one, hence, add 3/16ths to the other reading.

Click to expand...

This wouldn't make sense because the vernier scale is supposed to be more precise. Why would I measure to 32nds and then use the vernier to add 1/16ths?

It reads .3/16ths (or .6/32nds)

Use it the way I described, only use the aligned graduation mark to add .1 to .8 /16ths on the top scale (then you'd be adding a 32nd)

Clear as mud...

Say your calliper was open a tad over 1 1/4"
If the bottom scale was lined up to the first 32nd mark well, take that as your reading 1 1/4" + 1/32, or 1 9/32.

If it doesn't line up perfectly, say it's a bit between the first and second 32nd marks after 1 1/4".
Then you would look at the top scale to find the line that is lined up well on the 16ths scale...say it's the third one as you have in your picture.

Then your reading would be 1 1/4 + 1/32 + .3/16 (.6/32), or 1 9.6/32

Yes, it's confusing, but they couldn't use the 32nds scale with the aligning marks because it's too small to read, and too hard to produce them accurately.

That got it?

Now that I have time to sit and think about it, is the first mark on zero when it's closed completely?
Everytime I've seen one, it had 11 marks, not 9. (0-10) of course, they were also graduated in 10ths, not 8ths (or 16ths or 32nds).
When it's on 0 and 10, the opposite mark is lined up also.

Now I'm getting confused too. The math is hurting my head.

Now that I have time to sit and think about it, is the first mark on zero when it's closed completely?

Click to expand...

Well it should be, but it stays 1/80th" open because it's an old P.O.S.

I'm beginning to think I don't want to use this beast.

So basically, the vernier scale is 1/160th"?

I'm with TyRex on this one. Everytime I have to use a micrometer on something, I have to jog my memory on using it again. Of course, I only use one every few years.

Plastic dial calipers are available very inexpensively, and are accurate enough for many uses. They would be more accurate than metal Vernier calipers whose jaws don't meet, and much easier to use. If you can afford to, go ahead and step up to a pair of metal dial calipers. They make projects requiring accuracy much more pleasant.

Diggr, you get some serious credit for even trying to explain it.

I found a site just for explaining it, http://www.rit.edu/~vwlsps/VernierCaliper/caliper.html .

I won't use it enough to justify buying a new one.

I don't think the jaws not meeting will be a problem unless i'm measuring less than 1/80th.

All TyRex had to say was ".x/16" btw, x/160 is simpler.