[johan851]

I was shopping around at Napa Auto Parts, looking for antifreeze, when I spotted this stuff: "Napa Concentrated Radiator Anti-Rust & Water Pump Lubricant."

From what I know, the purpose of antifreeze is to kill bugs and algae and stuff, and also to prevent corrosion. I didn't like the glycol in it though, and antifreeze doesn't do much for temps in a comparatively low pressure system. I talked to the guy at the desk, and he said this stuff will prevent rust, corrosion, and cavitation. Incredients are Water, Naphthenic Oil, and Pteroleum Sulfonate. Milky white in color. Sounds pretty sweet to me...has anyone used something like this before? I think this coupled with some hydrogen peroxide or methanol should do a decent job of protecting against corrosion and killing bugs, without having to use the higher viscosity antifreeze.

[shiyan]

I think people sometimes also use antifreeze and alcohol to lower freezing points for chilled watercooling.

but for regular watercooling use, that stuff sounds it should work pretty nice.

but I don't do much watercooling any more, so maybe some other members could offer their views.

[felinusz]

Most people use Redline Watter Wetter, a commercial product for car radiators. It increases thermal capacity of water, kills corrosion and bacterial "bugs", and color's the water a light pink.

Similar products include Swiftech's HydrX water additive, and that "Purple Ice" stuff. Buy whatever you can get cheapest!

Antifreeze typically isn't as good a choice as it actually lowers thermal transfer a little bit, and can cause hellish bubbles in the turbulant water. Basically Anti-Freze has the same effects as Water Wetter, HydrX, and Purple Ice, except that it doesn't increase thermal transfer. If you really want the rust and bacteria proof security, a little bit of anti-freeze added to your soloution won't hurt.

Also use Distilled Water (*NOT TAP WATER!*) with 0 ppm mineral salts, and 0 ppm fluoride ions in it - available at your local grocery store for $3 a 10L jug - as it, combined with one of the above mentioned products, will cause no corrosion or compromised heat transfer at all.

[NeoMoses]

johan, I saw the same stuff, and was wondering the exact same thing. I believe it should work well, and you should only need a very small amount of it.

Water Wetter does a very poor job at protecting WC systems against corrosion. I use antifreeze because of its superior corrosion inhibitors. Also, WW will leave a residue on all the surfaces of your system, and may actually clog up blocks like the cascade. And, if you use about 10% antifreeze/90% distilled water, you won't see a noticeable change in temps.

Hope it helps!

[shiyan]

I remember ordering some of that red water wetter.

did anyone ever do some testing to see whether it really could increase water's heat capacity? I'm just doubtful due to not having seen anything with a higher heat capacity than water.

I also had that residue problem. I did not like what it left behind in tubes and blocks.

but I stopped watercooling, so I did not bother looking for alternatives.

[Soja]

I remember seeing a test somewhere with differences of 1-2c lower which isn't enough to really prove anything (marginal error). It also showed too much WW can increase temps.

[cypher_138]

I was using Purple Ice untill I saw this review:
http://www.wc101.com/reviews/Additives/
I since switched to Zerex racing coolant. Seems to work great to me.

[RonnieG]

johan,
Whiz has a similar product, "radiator anti-rust". It's got a milky color. The MSDS lists sodium hydroxide, sodium nitrite, and sodium metasilicate pentahydrate.

I've emailed Whiz and they say that it's not intended as a permanent standalone car coolant.

I don't think this product has sufficient anticorrosives. I don't recommend it for PC WC.

What I use is "caltex radiator protector", contains NO glycols, but has OAT (dexcool-type) anticorrosives...

[Minjin]

You guys are forgetting one of the other purposes of anti-freeze. To lubricate your pump.

There are two easy to optain, good SCA's (supplemental coolant additives) on the market. Redline Water Wetter as mentioned above, and RMI-25. Both of these have a large following and quite a few people will use both at the same time.

There are two other things you should watch out for when putting antifreeze in your system. The phosphate content and the silicate content. The Euro coolants tend to be phosphate free and the asian coolants tend to be silicate free. Both of these can be good and both can be bad. It all depends on what you're using them with. I would suggest that you contact the maker of your pump and ask what they would suggest.

To put it very simply, phosphates are used to lower corrosion in a chemical way. Silicates are used to lower corrosion in a physical way.

And I'm not even going to go into the organic acid technology (OAT) coolants that are available now...

Mark

[johan851]

Yeah, I heard about the WW staining properties and clogging and stuff...didn't sound like a very good solution to me.

One of the properties of this is that it "Eliminates water pump squeal, lubricates water pump seals and all moving parts." So it should be good for pump lubrication too.

I saw the same review Cypher, but after I looked at some other people's experiences with Zerex, they didn't like it. Or something. Either way, I found enough reason to scratch it off my list of what to use. I think I'm going to give this stuff a shot and see how it works out. It appears to be exactly what I want - lubricant and anti-corrosion without Glycol. I'm not expecting it to help my temps any. I'll also use some hyrdogen peroxide or alcohol (probably peroxide) to kill nasties.

[RonnieG]

Aquarium pumps don't need much lubrication. They're designed to run (murky) aquarium water... Ever heard your aquarium pump squealing?

That white liquid won't adequately protect against corrosion.

Alcohol is not a long-term solution.

Do not put hydrogen peroxide in your system.

Stay away from silicated antifreeze, they can be abrasive and can grind down your shaft/rotor.

Best to use the product I listed above, OAT anticorrosives (silicate-free), NO glycols, built-in leak detection dye.

[johan851]

1. I didn't say aquarium pumps needed lubrication - someone brought up the point, and I pointed out that the product was supposed to lubricate anyway.

2. Why not?

3. Why not?

4. Why not?

5. Ok...

6. BTW, this is an all copper system, so I don't need terribly strong anti-corrosive stuff.

So where can I get OAT anticorrosives, and how much do they cost? I'm learning just like everyone else...so good reasons help me more than straight answers. I like to know WHY. If you couldn't tell.