Need info on unlocking a TB w/ conductive pen

Ok. Of all the computers I've had, I've never spent so much money and time into overclocking my main TB1100Mhz pc before. Before I could never even get over 1133Mhz w/o SERIOUS winload problems. So I bought new ram to get higher. It took me to 1155Mhz stable. I bought a new mobo (from KT7 to KT7A). I setup another PSU because my system is using a crap PSU. That took me to 1166. And OH MY GOD is my TB running cool. With air cooling it is at 38ºC Idle and 41ºC Load.

I figure, my temps are ok, my ram is rated >150, my mobo is fine for upto 140FSB so whats wrong? Heck knows. So I want to overclock with multiplier this time. I've tried the pencil trick 3 TIMES with different pencils.

1st time...Computer didn't boot. Then it loaded up weird. Then I erased the pencil marks.
2nd time...Computer didn't boot. Then I erased the pencil marks.
3rd time...Booted but no difference.

Its obvious that the carbon content is so low that conductivity is zero. I need a cheap solution to get me to higher MHZ stable. I want to buy a conductive pen but I want to know...

1...DO conductive pens from online OC shops have a fine enough nib for a TB?
2...How the heck would I remove the mark if it went wrong?!?!
3...Whats other things should I be careful of?

Most conductive pens are meant for larger tasks. But if you take a pin, and put the conductive paint on the tip of the pen, you can drag it across the L1 bridge, and have no problem. If you mess up, have some Acetone on hand, which is always something to keep handy, so you can take off old thermal pads when you get a new heatsink. All you have to be careful of is to make sure that you don't cross any of the bridges.

I used a .5mm mechanical pencil. I checked the lead with my multimeter, and it had almost no resistance, so I figured it would be okay. I also have a drafting pencil sharpener, which gets that .5mm lead sharp as a needle (don't push the lead back in with your hand! It hurts!) and with that and my lighted magnifer (also for drawing) I was able to see what I was doing, and it was looking nice. But it's a shame my mobo is crap, and won't let me change the multiplier or voltage. The only option it gives me is dip switches for the FSB. So I can't test how well my job of connecting the L1 bridges was, but it does post just fine.

[Oc]Wa11y is right-on about the needle used to put the conductive paint on, and the lighted magnifier. I found one of those as a closeout for $25 and have used it for a lot of other things. I too tried the pencil trick, and it worked, but I decided to do it better with the pen.
BTW, you will probably have to pull the pen apart, CAREFULLY, to get at the paint inside. I found this easier than trying to get some on another surface and use it from there. It seemed to dry too fast that way.
Got one from Circuit Specialists on the web.

Here is the how to from our own Joe:

I just retried it with a better pencil and put my comp back together. Same thing. But this time...

My Mobo fan started FAILING! ATM I am sitting here on my comp with strange noises coming from the mobo fan. I suppose I should go buy another 40mm fan, but there is NO way I can get a fan as powerful as the 40mm Delta from ABit KT7A. What should I do?

Woohoo!

Thankgod, I just had another once over the mobo fan and found out it was just a loose screw! Another strange thing is that after refiting my hsf, the temps have gone down!

Was 38ºC Idle & 41ºC Max Load
Now 36ºC Idle & 39ºC Max Load!

Pretty good temps. Congrats.

Thanks!

Shame the temps do nothing for my overclocking. Im hoping that come next month I will have enough to buy the enermax 365 psu.

If I cant overclock then, well I think people are going to die

a sharp toothpick works the best with conductive pen cuz it doesn't dry as fast and it is much thicker so easier to work with imho.