Bridging the L5 and L1

can anyone recommend a good method. For the longest I've used the conductive grease. Which sucked because over time it would crap out. Dry up. Or when putting on the tape it would smear it all out. I just tried this but for some reason it doesn't want to work. http://www.cluboverclocker.com/guides/XP_Unlock/ . I tried to unlock it make it MP. Think that's just way too much bridging where something could go wrong? Is there a way that I could test to see if the connection on the brige is good before I put the chips back into my rig? Pulling out the motherboard is a pain in the @SS let alone getting my two waterblocks and everything else off. I'm talking a couple hours of work each time.
Duck

I used the same defogger paint you show with the link to unlock my Tbird. This lasted three years until I decided to switch to a Tbred. Then I used the same thing to mod two XP 1800 to become MP with default multiplier of 17x (I used the defogger paint on the CPU pins). These two mod XPs are now running in my K7D with no problem.

hmm i'll have to pull it all off again this weekend when I can afford the downtime. Is there anyway like voltmeter or something I can use to test the chips before I put them back in?
Duck

I've never had a problem with rear window defogger paint, but I have had various trouble with other products.

I have some conductive silver pen that works fine

With a voltmeter just check for continuity between the contacts. Thats all i can think of. Otherwise put one in test it and then test the other individuaklly.

http://www.techbuys.net/cw2200mtp.html
Is what I use that is the best stuff for the job.
I use a drop on the end of a pin under a magnifying glass.
I allways mask the other contacts with tape to avoid joining other bridges, If it runs just peel off the tape problem solved.
All my SMP mods have worked first time every time, be aware that window defogger paint is resistive by it's nature and is not as good as the conductive pen in the link above.

@boostland.... You're right about the stuff being resistive. I never really thought about that. However it shouldn't matter that much. As long as contact is being made.

I had used a Silver Conductive Pen for about a year or so and then one day, the material (in the pen, not on the already-modded CPU's) stopped being conductive.

I was trying to mod some CPU's and I did the mod over and over and over and it kept failing. When I took a multimeter to it, I found that the silver conductive paint wasn't registering as conductive. I don't know if the stuff just went bad, or what. All I know is that it worked perfectly many, many times, then one day stopped working, entirely.

I went and bought a Rear Window Defogger kit and after modding the CPU's just once, they worked perfectly as SMP.

In the long run, using Rear Windows Defogger paint can be more expensive, because you can't mod very many CPU's with one kit. In the short run, however, it is generally cheaper than a Silver Conductive Pen and it works really well.

The paint pens need to be shaken/stirred well like metallic car paint, as the conductive material settles out of suspension.
At what point is it to resistive for the mod to work, just as what point is intermittent become continuous, and light become dark ?

I'd imagine you can test with a multimeter. Just check the difference between a cut and un-cut bridge. If there is one, measure before and after the mod to ensure that it is bridged.

Z