water cooling recommendations and questions

I have been looking into getting a water cooling setup for some time now, but i still ahve some lingering questions and concerns.

what waterblock would you recommend? I am looking at the polarflo, whitewater, and the danger den RBX. i have heard about the poor lap jobs on the ww that are now fixed and also about the new copper tops on the RBX.

my concerns are about cracked acrylic tops(i know they're not all acrylic but the clear ones) and corrosion. i have seen pics of corroded aluminum tops from d-tek and thats what im worried about. i want a setup that i wont have to disassemble clean every 6 months. will a corrosion inhibitor solve almost completely the corrosion problem with an aluminum topped block?

also, i have heard that some people have had problems with acrylic tops that crack from stress from hoses or overtightening. are they really that sensative, or is it only an occasional problem? id rather not have to be as worried about corrosion.

i was somewhat comfortable with the idea of getting the white water with the aluminum top until recently when i posted on [H]ard forums. i asked the same question and a lot of responses i got were that corrosion occurs with aluminum and copper in the loop. i didn't get any clear reccomendations as to what to get. this seems like a much more knowledgeable forum in regards to water cooling, so i thank you for all your responses

Well as for the corrosion issues, as long as Al is anodized the corrosion should not be bad at all. Anodizing metal protects it. It is still a safe prcatice to add at least 25% of corrosion inhibiting antifreeze in to your coolant. If you are really worried about corrosion then 50% will work as well. Some coolant I recommend is Zerex, and Dex-Cool

If you can, get a top that is metal instead of acryllic. The acryllic shouldnt be THAT sensitive to crakcs but unfortunate events do occur sometimes if you tighten it hard enough. Might as well as worry about less things by gettin either a Cu, Al, brass top.

Welcome to Overclockers.com.

thanks so much, this is exactly the kind of feed back i was looking for

also, i viewed a forum where a representative from polarflo said that they run 100% windsheild washer fluid in their system. this sounds really convenient, and i like the blue color, but will it be effective at preventing corrosion and how much will performance be effected?

any other suggestions? i am really thinking about getting the RBX with the copper top, it sounds like it should be excellent

zip22 said:

any other suggestions? i am really thinking about getting the RBX with the copper top, it sounds like it should be excellent

Click to expand...

why do u need a suggestion for that is a good block so go for it!

alright i have another question. i am thinking of either using a t-line or a completely closed loop. if i use a closed loop, are there problems with evaporation (like through the tube) and how much maintenence is needed?


damn your fast

If you are worried about corrosion, then the RBX with the copper top would be the best best. As for a fluid additive, I like to use the Hydrox additive that Swiftech sells. It doesn't smell like crap and it hasn't stained any of my tygon tubes as of yet.

BTW what other components are you looking at using (if you don't mind me asking).

zip22 said:

alright i have another question. i am thinking of either using a t-line or a completely closed loop. if i use a closed loop, are there problems with evaporation (like through the tube) and how much maintenence is needed?


damn your fast

Click to expand...

How are you planning to bleed your system with a closed-loop?
I recommend getting a t-line and have it at the highest point of your setup so it bleeds easier.

Also, in closed loop, water will not evaporate. It cant evaporate through the tubes...

Can you define what you mean by maintenance?

You will need some way to fill the loop with water, "t" line or a res. is the 2 easest ways of doing this. It also give you a place to trap air that you will have in your system when you first fill it.

Well i guess he could run a close-loop if he asesmbles everything in a bath-tub or something...

i read in a forum that you can connect everything in your system except don't connect the hose to the inlet of the pump. then submerge the pump in a bucket and turn it on until theres no more air in the loop. also submerge the inlet tube, again making sure theres no air in the system, and connect the inlet to the pump. then you can turn off the pump, dry it off and install.


i was looking at getting either the white water with the alum top or the RBX with the copper top
eheim 1250
tygon tubing
d-tek heatercore w/ shroud
its for a p4 2.6c

zip22 said:

i read in a forum that you can connect everything in your system except don't connect the hose to the inlet of the pump. then submerge the pump in a bucket and turn it on until theres no more air in the loop. also submerge the inlet tube, again making sure theres no air in the system, and connect the inlet to the pump. then you can turn off the pump, dry it off and install.


i was looking at getting either the white water with the alum top or the RBX with the copper top
eheim 1250
tygon tubing
its for a p4 2.6c

Click to expand...

Yup... thats what i meant by assembling in a bath tub. Id stick with RBX with copper top cuz Im still doubtful about WW base.... But enwayz, you have to make sure that everything is sealed TIGHT because sometimes you could have an air leak not water leak. Leak so small that only air can go in. If this happens, you will just have bubbles circulating through out your system.

I agree with ilikemy240sx, You could do the closed loop system, but it sounds to me to be a big PITA, if nothing else put a "t" in it to ease your fill/bleed.

Ive just started buying the parts for my watercooling project. im confused on what tubing size im going to use. 1/2 ID 1/8 OD or 3/8, which is better?

It depends on your system. Most systems now use 1/2" ID tubing, the smallest use 3/8" ID. If you're a 1/2" system, then 1/2" ID tubing with a 1/8" thick wall. McMaster.com has all your tubing needs convered.

isn't mcmasters price on tygon high? it seems to be like $4 a foot. i thought it would be cheaper than through dangerden or dtek but i guess not. might they have tygon or something similar at home depot?

It would seem that McMaster's Tygon is $3.42/ft for 1/2ID 3/4OD. However the ClearFlex60 at McMaster is substantially cheaper:
Chemical PVC tubing, 1/2 ID, 3/4 OD, 1/8 Wall, part #5231K237 is $0.65/ft (Page 85 in the tubing section)

my system is going to be 1/2 ID.

i am getting my water cooling setup for christmas. if my parents allow a large enough budget, i am thinking about the tygon with the braided nylon(?) in it. i think it would look sweet.