Need help to find the cause of reboots

c627627 · Jan 3, 2004

Took the system to default settings to diagnoze reboots which are still happening even at default.

2100+ JIUHB 0308 UPMW
3 x 256MB K-Byte PC2700 (SpecTek chip)
Epox 8RDA+ nForce2
Thermalright SK-7 with variable speed Thermaltake Smart Fan 2
BFG GeForce4 Ti4200 8X 128MB; Antec SX-835II case ; 350W Antec SmartPower SL350
Two 120GB WD 7200 RPM

It is not software since I have dual boot and it happened on two OS + while I was runing a program off a floppy without even booting into an operating system. It's a piece of hardware causing this.

Memtest86 shows RAM sticks passing the tests.
Temperatures very low at default.

The system worked for quite a while so it can't be the heatsink being mounted incorrectly.

Used to overclock with 1.85 volts, not more.
Used to do [195] FSB x 11.5 = 2242 MHz.
Temps used to be around 50 C at most.

Power supply rails read as normal.

Reflashed BIOS, reflashed to older BIOS, still reboots after a while.

Graphic67 · Jan 3, 2004

Sorry to hear you are having troubles....

Take a few minutes to visually inspect the board paying close attention to the capacitors. Watch for any bulging tops or leakage. The faulty capacitor problems were about three years ago, but that doesn't mean it couldn't happen again....

Reseat everything. Mobo in case, cpu and heatsink on mobo, ram and video... EVERYTHING.

Even with your ram passing memtest, try using only one stick. If that works, try more ram but increase the ram voltage.

Do you have another video card to test with? Doesn't have to be anything fancy...

c627627 · Jan 3, 2004

Thanks Graphic67, I figured I should reseat everything, but it occured to me to take everything as it is to a place where I can have access to another PSU first, then see if another PSU causes these symptoms.

If it does, step 2 would be to swap video cards and test that.

Then step 3, all the other cards and heatsink+CPU.

Step 4 would be to take mobo completely out then back in.

....or should I go for the heatsink with its clip-on hassle first?

Graphic67 · Jan 3, 2004

If you are in the dusty half of Kansas, reseat everything first. I had lots of problems with dust when I was living in the Texas panhandle.

I am assuming that you had a UPS protecting that system from surges and brownouts, but if you did not then the PSU could be suspect. I have a similar load on my SL350 (in an SX835II case too).

Also, visually confirm that your GPU fan is up to speed...

c627627 · Jan 3, 2004

No UPS. Wanted to get one but heard you have to change batteries on those UPS's and that they weren't cheap so passed on it because of that.

Fan is OK. It is a bit dusty in the case.

Simply reseating every single card and heatsink and CPU first.
Then if it doesn't work swap the PSU, huh.

Then swap video card.
Finally reseat the actual mobo itself.

That would be the revised plan of action then?

Of course canned air is ready to stir it up.

CrashOveride · Jan 3, 2004

Usualy reboots turn out to be the PSU, thats the first thing I would check, a better PSU. If it fixes it more than likley that was the problem. But reseating everything doesn't hurt.

c627627 · Jan 3, 2004

Let's say both options being of equal hassle for me, if the PSU rails appear to be normal, would you go for the reseating or the PSU swap first CrashOveride? thanks

CrashOveride · Jan 4, 2004

If they seem very easy I would re-seat everything first. (only because that seems easier for me... I am VERY lazy) You only have to pop out and pop back in the video card, memory, maybe ide cables and maybe the PSU connector on the motherboard. But I doubt it's that so I think trying a differnt PSU will show you the problem... But alas we will see (maybe?

)

c627627 · Jan 4, 2004

I went ahead trying to reseat everything, got to the PSU connector and, well

and double

you know how the PSU connector that connects to the mobo has plastic coating over two rows of ten pins, well the one where the red wire goes at the end, the coating was melted!

parts of plastic coating stayed inside the mobo PSU socket and burn marks can be seen in some of the other parts of the PSU connector.

What is this!?

The PSU was barely operational then because it was hardly making contact with the mobo because of melted plastic.

Do I contact Antec?
How do I get melted plastic out of the mobo PSU socket?

Will Antec cover the cost of mobo if I can't?

:temper:

CrashOveride · Jan 4, 2004

Happened to me... Motherboard was my problem, may have started out with PSU or even house power problems but now the motherboard is dead and all the PSUs I tried did the same thing. One of them, the one that I had on it first is also dead now, but I don't know if it was a direct result of that.

I had an Antec also though.. it was an older 420w.

I dunno, maybe if it's still under warrenty.

c627627 · Jan 4, 2004

c627627 · Jan 4, 2004

Oops, how do I make these images smaller?

On the flip side:

CrashOveride · Jan 4, 2004

Exactly what mine looked like... Same pin was really bad with the others just browned and brittle... You can make the images smaller Paint, or Photoshop or somthing like that. There is also an MS powertoys addon thingy.

How old is that PSU?

c627627 · Jan 4, 2004

About a year.

"Antec proudly stands behind its products with a 3-year limited product warranty(AQ3) and Best-of-Class customer service and technical support."

We'll see...

... by calling Antec, Inc. at (510) 770-1200 ext. 330
8:30am to 5:30pm Pacific Time.

How can I get them to pay for the mobo (no chance, huh?)

Graphic67 · Jan 4, 2004

It seems strange that the 5V lines would go like that.

THAT is why most other high performance motherboards use the extra P4 style 12V connector.... Additional power to regulate down and take some of the load off of the 5V.

Gautam · Jan 4, 2004

c627627 said:
I went ahead trying to reseat everything, got to the PSU connector and, well
and double

you know how the PSU connector that connects to the mobo has plastic coating over two rows of ten pins, well the one where the red wire goes at the end, the coating was melted!

parts of plastic coating stayed inside the mobo PSU socket and burn marks can be seen in some of the other parts of the PSU connector.

What is this!?

The PSU was barely operational then because it was hardly making contact with the mobo because of melted plastic.

Do I contact Antec?
How do I get melted plastic out of the mobo PSU socket?

Will Antec cover the cost of mobo if I can't?

This is not that uncommon. Your ATX power connector probably got jarred in one way or another. I doubt it had much to do with your power supply being inadequate, as I've seen this happen plenty of times before, and it was running perfectly before for you. AFAIK, Antec should reimburse you for the motherboard.

And I was about to guess that it was your hard drives...

P.S. Damn, you guys stay up late...

c627627 · Jan 4, 2004

Certain battery companies compensate you for damaged equipment if the batteries leak, my hope was Antec would do the same.

Sparkle is the same as Fortron, can I use this for a week:

for
2100+ JIUHB 0308 UPMW
3 x 256MB K-Byte PC2700 (SpecTek chip)
Epox 8RDA+ nForce2
Thermalright SK-7 with variable speed Thermaltake Smart Fan 2
BFG GeForce4 Ti4200 8X 128MB
Two 120GB WD 7200 RPM
tv card, modem, ethernet card, sound card,

I'll disconnect, the CDRW, DVD drive and floppy.

CrashOveride · Jan 4, 2004

You could try it... I would lower your OC though...

I wouldn't do it with the same motherboard though, when this happend to my motherboard all the PSUs I used did the same thing when I pl;ugged em in.

Gautam · Jan 4, 2004

I use a 200W Fortron to power a [email protected] with stock voltage. All rails are rock solid, and flawless. In fact, considering how tough my 300W Fortron is, I wouldn't be surprised if that 235W unit works as well as your SL350... The optical drives use mainly use the 12v rail, so you should be easily able to power your system to its fullest with a very slightly reduced overclock.

c627627 · Jan 4, 2004

What about CrashOveride's saying that I shouldn't plug it in the same mobo as the same fate awaits the Sparkle PSU?

Need help to find the cause of reboots

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