• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

pictures of my system

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.

gungeek

Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2003
Location
USA
Pictures of my system (56K warning)

Here's the system. It's basic but works well. Tubing is 1/2" ID clearflex.

wc_side1.JPG


The 3 copper elbows were needed to eliminate tubing pressure on the cpu block. The Enlight case isn't very wide and the choice was adding elbows or permanently leaving the side cover off.

wc_elbow.JPG


Closeup of the 3/8" copper elbow. Hoseclamps are not optional. NB is a passive zahlman with mounting bolts instead of push pins.
wc_pump_fan1_1.JPG


Tupperware shroud, 120mm fan at 7 volts, Quiet One 1200 pump, note the 3/8" copper tee for the T-line; it doesn't restrict flow much and has a larger ID than the plastic T's. The heatercore is a chevette with no barbs added.

wc_case1.JPG


This is everything buttoned up. The floppy and hard drive have been mounted in the top two 5.25 bays. The open bay cover allows some air to flow over the hard drive. The side intake fan blows air into the NB/CPU area; it was a cpu duct before converting to water.
 
Last edited:
Voodoo Rufus said:
Clean and simple. Pretty nice. What are the temps you're getting?
CPU die temp is 41C at 100% load and 37C idle with the front case cover removed. Closing the case adds 3C to the temps. The anti-freeze/water mix is about 25-30% Prestone All-Metal.
 
Last edited:
looks good... except those elbows are KILLING your flow! you should just get tygon for flexibility rather than use those elbows... BTW: how is the wb attached, aint it bolted to the mobo?

also, you could get a bigger ID t-line too... i have a 5/8" ID plastic t-line from the hardware store :)
 
hey gungeek, is it red and black for power on that JMC fan? Thanks. And I thought that clearflex was used so you didnt need elbows. Nice though.
 
All clean and a Soltek board to top it off it looks like. I have read of some pretty high FSB with that board, are you topped out at 200?

poMONKey if I'm not mistaken that w/b mounts using the socket tabs.
 
wannaoc said:
All clean and a Soltek board to top it off it looks like. I have read of some pretty high FSB with that board, are you topped out at 200?

poMONKey if I'm not mistaken that w/b mounts using the socket tabs.
Yes, it is a Soltek 75MRN-L with special FAE Bios to open up all settings. The waterblock uses the socket tabs for mounting; the board doesn't have the 4 mounting holes. I'm FSB limited by the memory since I run fsb and mem synchronized. It's corsair xms PC2700 running 200MHz at 2.5-3-3-7. I'd really like to try a stick of PC3700; bios allows FSB up to 250MHz.

What are all of these dremel comments??? I drilled 100 1/4" holes in the front cover, cut a hole in the side panel for the fan, and cut out all stamped fan grills; isn't that enough??:D
 
trojanman said:
hey gungeek, is it red and black for power on that JMC fan? Thanks. And I thought that clearflex was used so you didnt need elbows. Nice though.
On the top pic, the wires going off to the right are for the side intake fan, 80mm. The red,black, and white wires on the JMC are for power and RPM monitoring but monitoring isn't used due to the 7 volt method.
Even with the clearflex, the bends were putting too much pressure on the waterblock. I'm not going to change anything except to add a GPU block sometime then I may reroute the tubing, but the elbows will stay.

I will be enlarging the 1/4" holes to 3/8" or so, but that uses the cordless drill not a dremel:D. They do restrict the intake air somewhat but not nearly as much as the stock case did.
 
Last edited:
I have that same case and its so narrow that even silicon tubing won't bend tight enough between the cpu and gpu to fit with the side cover on. I can understand why you used the elbows.
I also went from a cpu duct to water. Our cases look pretty similar except I cut a big hole in the front bezel for intake and covered it with a fan grill.
I have an extra beige 5.25" drive bay cover. If you need it PM me and I'll send it to you for free. If your case is white you can email Enlight and ask if you can buy one. They will send you one for free. That's what they did for me when I needed an extra 3.5" cover.
 
is the block really that big or do you not have a socket cuz im not seeing anything like your mobo is a via all in one or somthing LOL
 
Thanks for the kind words. I've learned alot here. Maybe someone will learn from my setup.

SK8: the block is 3x3 inches and socket mounted.

VballCoach: Yes, I'm using one of the thicker O-rings; the pump seems to be working just fine. I ended up epoxying the intake barb to the intake after cross-threading and tightening the barb too much and breaking off the threaded part of the intake.... Oh well, this way the intake barb doesn't stick out so far from the pump:)

Pelikan: I'm glad someone can confirm how narrow this case is. The chevette heatercore is almost too wide to put the side cover on; 1/4" clearance both sides and not alot on top either. I've got a full set of drive covers, but thanks for the offer. Leaving that one off lets air onto the hard drive and gives me a handhold to tilt the case up in front.

Trojanman: I stuffed the molex connections on top of the heatercore to keep them out of the way. The red and black wires go to a molex connector.

poMONKey: The elbows do hurt the flow some, but look up the C/W vs. flow curve for the MCW-5002. It is almost flat from 0.5 to 2 gallons/min. It would take a huge flow increase to show even a 1C drop in cpu temps. One advantage to the copper fittings vs. plastic barbs and fittings is the tubing will come loose from the copper if needed yet stay in place with good hoseclamps. With plastic fittings of the same ID as the copper, I could get the tubing on, but it would only come off with a knife. Clearflex isn't cheap, but it is so much nicer than the vinyl tubing.
 
Last edited:
gungeek: did you try swapping out 45° elbows instead of the 90°? I used them on my HC and the tubing bent pretty good with them and good flow results.
 
Jibjo said:
gungeek: did you try swapping out 45° elbows instead of the 90°? I used them on my HC and the tubing bent pretty good with them and good flow results.

I didn't try any 45 elbows. I was looking for simplicity with minimum tubing pressure on the cpu block and the 90 degree copper fittings worked well. I have a hunch the 90 degree elbows aren't killing the flow as badly as some imagine. Sure there is a pressure drop, but it is a smooth 1-inch radius turn with a constant 3/8" ID; relatively gentle compared to the alternatives.
 
Back