[RWHGadianton]

Currently, I am in planning stages for a Prescott system. The system will consist of the following:

P4 "Prescott" 3.0E
Abit IC7-Max3
Either Kingston PC3700 2x512 or Geil PC4400 2x512 (Still deciding due to price)
DangerDen RBX Waterblock
Thermochill HE120.3 Radiator
DangerDen DD12V-D4 Pump
5.25 Quad Bay Reservoir
All 1/2" Brass Barbs with Plumber's Goop
Tygon Tubing

Water Ratio:
75% Distilled/25% Zerex Super Protector plus Waterchill Anti-Algae formula and a couple drops of UV Dye.

Cooling of Radiator is to be provided by 6 120mm 69 CFM fans in push/pull config, and all this placed inside a U2-UFO Black Powder Original Case by Mountainmods.com.

I plan to OC as far as I can up to 4Ghz.

How do you think that would cool the system?
Would you change anything?

This is my first watercooling system. I've done a bunch of research over the last few weeks and am looking for opinions.

[Maximus_OC]

Judging by the reasearch that I have done, this system should rock. Keep us updated on your process.

[zip22]

sounds good, but zerex super protector will stain your tygon tubes. i would reccomend looking for something different

[RWHGadianton]

From what I understand, Super Coolant stains and Super Protector is clear. Am I wrong on this?

[zip22]

super protector is clear, but it still made my tygon a faint yellowish color. it starts out looking real nice, but after a few weeks i was dissapointed.

[RWHGadianton]

What is your suggestion for replacing it?

Here is what I'm after...

I want great performance, but the visible color should be green or clear. I don't like the pink look of WW or the Purple Ice look in purple. And from what I understand Glycol based products aren't good for Watercooling.

[zip22]

im not sure, i was looking for clear. what have you heard about regular green antifreeze? also, i think your ratio could be smaller. like 85/15 or less

[RWHGadianton]

I heard regular green antifreeze is glycol based and reduces the thermazl transfer capacity of the water. If I HAD to use it, I would probably use a 90/10 or 95/5 ratio. Just enough to keep corrosion and algae away. and then I wouldn't need the Waterchill Anti-Algae Formula.

I read somewhere that antifreeze makes the water more viscous too. I would prolly want a tad bit of detergent in there to counter that. Probably a drop or two of antibacterial soap.

[Stee]

good luck with stopping the mosfets melting off LOL.

presswanks dont look to be that great, they themself arnt that hot but they stress mobos far too much, if u really wanna chance research the issues they give atm and work some ways around it like some mad mosfet cooling etc, otherwise id prepare urself for a huge dissapointment

$$$ + crap result = %~!""*

[RWHGadianton]

Considering that the IC7Max3 Motherboard comes with active cooling for the MOSFETS, I was just going to add some Arctic Silver 5 to the MOSFET Heatsinks and let the fan do the rest. Abit rates the board up to 300FSB.

3.0E has 15x multiplier

15x300FSB = 4.5 Ghz

I just want to break 4.0, I know 4.5 is unrealistic for water.

[Arcsylver]

Well you selected the same WB I bought for my upcoming prescott 2.8E system.

everything else I chose is a bit off the wall but looks like you have a good setup to keep that prescott cool.

The mosfets may get a bit toasty but as you said the Abit cooling setup should handle that, though I wonder just how effective such a small fan will actually be in practice.

[Korndog]

Originally posted by RWHGadianton
I heard regular green antifreeze is glycol based and reduces the thermazl transfer capacity of the water. If I HAD to use it, I would probably use a 90/10 or 95/5 ratio. Just enough to keep corrosion and algae away. and then I wouldn't need the Waterchill Anti-Algae Formula.

I read somewhere that antifreeze makes the water more viscous too. I would prolly want a tad bit of detergent in there to counter that. Probably a drop or two of antibacterial soap.

the impact on waters thermal properties when antifreeze is added is minimal, and IMO is somewhat insignificiant when using a 90/10 ratio or even a little hight to 85/15. In fact, you can try running ur setup with regular water and then changing to 90/10 and you will probably not see a 1c difference. As for the viscosity of the solution, again, adding only 10% will not make a significiant change. Using more then that, like 50/50 right from the bottle will decrease flow, which will impact preformance. See that you have a all copper or possibly a copper/brass setup, if u decide to go the brass top RBX, you should need more then 10%, besides that coolant should take care of any algae or bacteria growth.

[Seven]

RWH: Might want to talk to Nikhsub1 about this. He's got a VERY similar config. He knows his stuff about cooling, so I'd say shoot him a PM or something, he'd be a valuable resource to you.

Other than that, I'd say ditch the Quad bay reservoir, get a T-line, and instead of the DangerDen D4 Pump (laing d4), get a MCP600 Rev. 2. I was going to buy it too, but I heard cathar's recording of it, and it's NOT quiet.

[MoreGooder]

At a 15% solution, Pentosin blue antifreeze is pretty clear. So far, no staining of my Clearflex after 3 weeks of use.

[RWHGadianton]

Thanks for the vote of confidence, Arcsylver.
Thanks for the info, Korndog.
I'll consider the Pentosin, MoreGooder.

Fyberwire,

I will try to contact Nikhsub1, but I wanted to comment on some of your comments in more detail. It is not Quad (4-bay) Reservoir The term Quad refers to 4 hose plug-ins. It is only takes one 5.25" bay. I will look into the MCP600 Rev. 2, and am trying to d/l the audio for the DD12-D4 you mentioned now.