[GV2NIX]

rogerdugans said:

It takes me about 15 minutes to swap cpus in my main system the way I have it configured.
That includes draining, cleaning and re-applying thermal compound to cpu/block, refilling, bleeding and starting the system up again.

Air Traps and Drain Valves rock.

Genius! Why didn't I think of that? A drain valve! That would certainly make draining easier, duh... Wouldn't have to gyrate my midtower around like I'm panning for gold or something to get all the water out. Man, I feel stupid for not thinking of that.

Anyways, can anyone recommend a good drain valve for 1/2" Tygon tubing? Something that won't restrict flow at all? The ones I've found are stepped and that's not good for flow obviously. Also, I'm guessing it should be located at the lowest point in the loop? What if my lowest point is cluttered with pumps and rads and stuff? Any other suggestions? Thank you guys!

Am I being rude? Do I have too many posts in this group? Should I just make one thread and ask multiple questions instead of starting a new thread for each question? I feel embarassed seeing my handle so many time on the list!

[coachphil5]

If you rad is in the lowest point in the system I would put a drain valve in the bottom of it. As long as it is copper/brass of course. Putting in aluminum may be more complicated. A competent radiator shop should be able to handle this.

[rogerdugans]

I was just asked by another member if I had pics of my setup- here is a link:
Messy Work In Progress!

I would like to say that the system is prettier now but.......I keep trying new things.

Air Trap and valve are still in those basic locations however, as they have tested the best.

I just used a standard copper valve and soldered in some copper tubing to make a barb. The drain won't really add restriction, although having another Tee in this system will add a small amount- the benefits outweigh the negatives though, if you often mess with stuff.

[GV2NIX]

Ah ha, I see. I was actually thinking that a drain valve was something like an "inline" drain valve. Like a ball valve that sits in the circuit but then there's a small protrusion that comes out with a ball valve in it which lets the water out when opened. That way it's not a T when it's close and doesn't hinder flow.

I'm probably not painting a very good picture. Not to mention what I'm babbling about probably doesn't even exist! I don't know what I'm talking about, I pulled an all-nighter last night, so I'm not really lucid right now... Thanks for the picture though!

rodgerdugans, looking good! Very spacious. Why did you use copper tubing for some of the plumbing? Does it help radiate some of the extra heat in the water?

[rogerdugans]

I do picture what you describe, and they do exist...at least sort of.
All the ones I know of have a much smaller drain than the regular valve inlet/outlets which would slow down the draining process. And that type of valve is far more expensive.

In any case- just having a valve will increase the restriction about the same as a Tee fitting so the only differences would be:

Fancy valve drains slower and costs more. It would take up a bit less room though.
Tee and cheap valve combined would cost less and drain faster although more space is needed.

[GV2NIX]

Cool, I think I found a few things that would work as I described on McMaster. At any rate, I see your point though, I guess at that level it doesn't matter, any kind of valve is going to provide some resistance.

I guess since I don't mess with my system a lot, I can do without the drain. Plus, I'm pushing flow rates with my MCP600 and 3 water blocks, I better not introduce any unnecessary resistance.

[BlueMan]

Do you guys think you could explain some more as to what a drain valve is? I'm a bit confused, but am interested, as I will be making a system VERY soon and will be taking it apart alot.

[eXCeSS]

Originally Posted by BlueMan

Do you guys think you could explain some more as to what a drain valve is? I'm a bit confused, but am interested, as I will be making a system VERY soon and will be taking it apart alot.

Pretty much a fitting that when you open it all your fluid comes out and it saves the hassle of drainging everything by hand

[BlueMan]

could you just use a spiggot (sp?) with a knob like for hoses?

[eXCeSS]

Originally Posted by BlueMan

could you just use a spiggot (sp?) with a knob like for hoses?

An upside down T line would prolly do the same thing.

[coolroyboy2]

Get a ball valve ,they are more money but are alot less prone to leakage and less restrictive. The other type is a gate valve or also called a boiler drain.

http://www.grainger.com serch for ball valve

[BlueMan]

Now where does one put this in the loop? I can imagine that if you put it before the pump inlet, as soon as you start draining the pump would cavitate from air. But if you put it after the pump, alot of water would (due to gravity) not get sucked through.

[SysCrusher]

Before I had a res, I used a T about 3" away from the pump inlet. Then a 1/2" hose barb with a brass cap on the end, sealed with thread sealer of course. Then just use a hose clamp after you stuffed the hose barb in the hose. Works great and didnt hinder flow at all, atleast I couldn't tell anyways. I still use that idea with the res too. The valve idea is alot nicer looking and easy to use though.

[BlueMan]

and the water just flows out? how does it not cavitate the pump? Or do you put it at the lowest point and just turn the pump off?

[SysCrusher]

Originally Posted by BlueMan

and the water just flows out? how does it not cavitate the pump? Or do you put it at the lowest point and just turn the pump off?

I put mine at the lowest point and turn the pump off. I also have the same thing at the highest point to allow air in so it flows at the lowest point easier. With out it, it just sort of trickles out - vaccum effect.

[BlueMan]

Now how do you deal with the water in the HC and blocks? do you just not worry about it?

[SysCrusher]

My HC is mounted on the inside top of the case, so it all comes out. My bleed valve is at the lowest place in the case and all the blocks are above it. There usually is some water left in the blocks though not much. When I take the blocks or block, I keep the tube attached to it and turn it upside down to let the water left in it flow down. You can use a tube clamp on the ends if you need to.

[lclark2074]

on my celly i have the tygon long enuf so i can take it off without braking the hoses so i dont use a drain valve

[BlueMan]

Well I got excited about a drain valve (now you know someone is really into watercooling when they can say THAT! lol) so I went to good ol' home depot (also known as 'where all my cash has gone') and picked these pieces up. All the barbs are 5/8" ID whereas my tubing is 1/2" ID so there shoulnd't be any flow restriction, and I can just boil the tubes over the barbs. the valve is a standard 1/2" brass ball valve with a barb connected to it so I can add tubing if I need to. Look good?

[coolroyboy2]

There is also 1/2 in. brass ball valves that you can sweat copper lines into to reduce the threded fittings , just a friendly FYI