Notices

Overclockers Forums > Hardware > Cooling
Cooling Discussion of fans, heatsinks, thermal pastes and putting it all together to keep your rig cool
Forum Jump

Building a heatsink... kind of. Solid copper bar or heatpipe?

Post Reply New Thread Subscribe Search this Thread
 
 
Thread Tools
Old 07-23-04, 02:18 PM Thread Starter   #1
jamesavery22
Member



Join Date: Jan 2003

 
Building a heatsink... kind of. Solid copper bar or heatpipe?


I have a very large heatsink, pretty close to 1" x 10 x 10" What I am trying to do is use a micro atx board and make the heatsink the entire top of the case. Then use something like a solid copper bar (about 3 inches in height and inch in diameter) to connect the heatsink and processor. So id put the copper bar ontop of the processor then the heatsink ontop of the bar.

Thing is the only places I can find solid copper bar is onlinemetals.com and ebay. Either way Im going to spend 30$ on just a <12" bar and shipping. Not to mention cuts.

Then I was thinking I could take a TTIC NPH-2, or something similar, rip off the top inch of fins (as the heatpipe column is 100mm in height, about 4 inches), cut a 1" hole in the large heatsink, then extend the heatpipe to the very tip of the heatsinks fins. Thing is the contact area from the side of teh heatpipe and the large heatsink wont be much. Should I just stick with the solid copper bar idea?

I was going to take the retail P4 heatsink, cut a 1" hole in center all the way thoug that, put a solid 1inch diameter x 3inch copper bar in that hole, make it flush with the bottom of the retail heatsink, use some AS epoxy to hold it inplace as well as put a bolt through the center of some of the fins on the heatsink and the copper bar, then lap the bottom of the heatsink and the copper bar so its nice and flush.
Then basically just put the heatsink ontop of the copper bar thats sticking up. Holding everything in place isnt a big deal.

Thing is it would be easier and cheaper for me to just buy one of the cheap heatpipe coolers and hack it up. I dont know what performance that will give me though. Do heatpipes only work well with fins all along the whole column rather than just at the top?

From online metals, for a 12" bar (shortest length I can get) and one cut IM already at 30$ without shipping and it will weigh around 10lbs...

Any input is welcome =)

__________________
Unfortunately there is no more FaD :( So FOLD!
My Heatware
jamesavery22 is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 07-23-04, 10:19 PM   #2
Electron Chaser
Senior Delta Fanatic

 
Electron Chaser's Avatar 

Join Date: May 2004
Location: I live by a Delta

 
I'm not sure how well that will work. I have worked with various metals. and while it is true that mounting a copper or aluminum block will draw heat away from your work. (for example welding or using a torch) even at these extreme temps the heat distribution does not travel very far along a length of material. It is not like if you heat one end the other is the same temperature over a foot or so. I mean even at a length of a foot one end may be at it's melting point will the other end is several hundred degrees cooler. What I'm trying to say is that while the idea has some merit you are going to have to either cool your massive heatsink to very cold temps to see any sort of a change or come up with a better method for heat transfer then using a several inch piece of solid copper.
Electron Chaser is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 07-23-04, 11:20 PM   #3
DumpALump
Member

 
DumpALump's Avatar 

Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: California, US

 
A heatpipe should work well with bigger distances than the copper pipe. You don't really need fins all over the heatpipe since it's like WC in a way which it brings the hot temp to another area to be cooled, then returns back.
DumpALump is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 07-24-04, 01:24 AM   #4
pby5cat
Member

 
pby5cat's Avatar 

Join Date: May 2002
Location: california

 
I say hack up a heatpipe heatsink

__________________
Intel Q6600 L727A
Asus Maximus Formula
2X2gb Gskill DDRII-1000
2X HIS ATI HD3870 in Crossfire (835,1206)
WD 150Gb Raptor and Maxtor 250Gb DiamondMax10
2X Samsung DVD-RW DL SATA
Silverstone OP850
Thermalright Ultra 120 Xtreme (lapped)
thats it, and proud of it.
My Heatware
pby5cat is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 07-24-04, 02:52 AM   #5
SamDaMan
Registered



Join Date: May 2001

 
I know its almost impossible to solder copper water pipes that have water in them... you can never heat them hot enough ...

Just google "thermal transfer properties"

http://www.tak2000.com/

Its gobblygook to me though lol... I can't belive that someone could make a better heatsink then the Themaltake 112.. but who knows...

http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=313311
SamDaMan is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 07-25-04, 12:14 AM   #6
Pro*Banshee
Member

 
Pro*Banshee's Avatar 

Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Pittsburgh Pennsylvania

 
a good idea, would be to add a shrader valve while soldering, so you can fill your heat pipe after you make it
Pro*Banshee is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 07-25-04, 07:43 PM   #7
pby5cat
Member

 
pby5cat's Avatar 

Join Date: May 2002
Location: california

 
no soldering needed, just clamp the pips in like a sandwich, using therm past between.

__________________
Intel Q6600 L727A
Asus Maximus Formula
2X2gb Gskill DDRII-1000
2X HIS ATI HD3870 in Crossfire (835,1206)
WD 150Gb Raptor and Maxtor 250Gb DiamondMax10
2X Samsung DVD-RW DL SATA
Silverstone OP850
Thermalright Ultra 120 Xtreme (lapped)
thats it, and proud of it.
My Heatware
pby5cat is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 07-25-04, 10:27 PM   #8
SwampThing
Member

 
SwampThing's Avatar 

Join Date: May 2004

 
The bar of solid copper won't work. For that cross-section and length, you'd need a temperature difference of around 40C to get 100 watts from one end to the other. I'm just guessin', but I don't think you want your CPU 40 hotter.

With heat pipes it's possible. You'd need to un-fin the end of heatpipes, bend them, and clamp them to the underside of your big heat sink. To get decent heat transfer you'll need to mill insets into the bottom of the sink and make matching clamp blocks; the pipes, sink, and clamp blocks all have to fit tightly together.

Possible, but hard.
SwampThing is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 07-26-04, 06:40 AM   #9
Zerileous

 
Zerileous's Avatar 

Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Kansas City, MO

 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SwampThing
The bar of solid copper won't work. For that cross-section and length, you'd need a temperature difference of around 40C to get 100 watts from one end to the other. I'm just guessin', but I don't think you want your CPU 40 hotter.

With heat pipes it's possible. You'd need to un-fin the end of heatpipes, bend them, and clamp them to the underside of your big heat sink. To get decent heat transfer you'll need to mill insets into the bottom of the sink and make matching clamp blocks; the pipes, sink, and clamp blocks all have to fit tightly together.

Possible, but hard.
I concur.

__________________
Main Rig
|Athlon XP Barton 2500+ @ 200x11=2200 MHz @ Stock Vcore ~ SLK-947U w/ 92mm Enermax (64CFM) ~ Abit NF7-S Rev. 2.0 ~ 512MB PC3200 Mushkin Black Level 1 @ stock vdimm. 2-3-2-11 ~ ATI Radeon 9800 Pro with XT hardware and XT bios Mod ~ Onboard Soundstorm ~ Logitech Z640s ~ WD Special Edition 120GB ~ Samsung 5400rpm 40GB file drive ~ Sony DRU-710A Dual layer +/- DVD Burner ~ 16x LiteOn DVD-ROM ~ Logitech MX500 Optical Mouse|
Lappy: Dell Inspiron 9300
|Pentium M 1.86 Ghz ~ 1GB DDR II ~ nVidia GeForce FX Go6800 256MB ~ 17" Widescreen 9200x1200 ~ 60GB 7200RPM HDD ~ DVD Drive/CD Burner combo ~ Centrino a/b/g interal WiFi and internal Bluetooth ~ 2x 80watt/hour batteries|
Zerileous is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 07-26-04, 08:05 AM Thread Starter   #10
jamesavery22
Member



Join Date: Jan 2003

 
The distance I am going to go from the IHS of a P4 to the heatsink will be 3 inches, well 2 7/8s anyways. I think Im going to cut up a thermaltake silent tower. I was going on the premise that I was going to win an auction for some cheap copper. I lost that so I no longer have any way to get cheap copper. I dont want to spend 50$ on just a chunk of copper that Im only going to use a fourth of it =\

And Im not OCing this rig at all, just want it silent. Its a 2.6ghz p4 though and will be running FaD so it will still stay hot. Probably end up blowing a house fan in its direction =)

__________________
Unfortunately there is no more FaD :( So FOLD!
My Heatware
jamesavery22 is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 07-26-04, 07:10 PM   #11
Electron Chaser
Senior Delta Fanatic

 
Electron Chaser's Avatar 

Join Date: May 2004
Location: I live by a Delta

 
Hmm will the house fan be fixed or oscillating LOL.
Electron Chaser is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 07-27-04, 08:10 AM   #12
Como
Member

 
Como's Avatar 

Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Maine

 
i hate to say it, but wat ever happened to aluminum? last i checked its heat stayed pretty constant, in that it transferred its heat from one end to the other fairly evenly.

__________________
This space is for rent.*


*I'm Lying
Como is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 07-30-04, 11:02 AM Thread Starter   #13
jamesavery22
Member



Join Date: Jan 2003

 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Como
i hate to say it, but wat ever happened to aluminum? last i checked its heat stayed pretty constant, in that it transferred its heat from one end to the other fairly evenly.
Uh I dunno =) I can get an aluminum rod or plate cheaper then copper. I was just about to buy a silent tower to rip up and put on my heatsink...

__________________
Unfortunately there is no more FaD :( So FOLD!
My Heatware
jamesavery22 is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 07-30-04, 12:47 PM   #14
matttheniceguy
Member

 
matttheniceguy's Avatar 

Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Vancouver Canada

 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Como
i hate to say it, but wat ever happened to aluminum? last i checked its heat stayed pretty constant, in that it transferred its heat from one end to the other fairly evenly.

aluminum has a pretty low thermal resistance so it does seem to warm up very evenly, especially compared to steel or something like that. Copper has an even lower thermal resistance though, and will heat up more "evenly" than aluminum.

Copper still won't work very well for what you are doing. The distance if to far, and the temps will be terrable.
matttheniceguy is offline   QUOTE Thanks

Post Reply New Thread Subscribe


Overclockers Forums > Hardware > Cooling
Cooling Discussion of fans, heatsinks, thermal pastes and putting it all together to keep your rig cool
Forum Jump

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search


Mobile Skin
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:59 AM.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
You can add these icons by updating your profile information to include your Heatware ID, Benching Profile ID or your Folding/SETI profile ID. Edit your profile!
X

Welcome to Overclockers.com

Create your username to jump into the discussion!

New members like you have made this the best community on the Internet since 1998!


(4 digit year)

Why Join Us?

  • Share experience
  • Max out your hardware
  • Best forum members anywhere
  • Customized forum experience

Already a member?