Poly or Al D-tek WW WaterBlock

sunrunner20 · Oct 31, 2004

Is there any reason not to use a poly top on a WW WB? I really don't like the idea of haveing Al exposed to water in my loop even though ill be useing Fluid XP+ 95+% of the time (ie, ill only use plain water if im waiting for a bottle of FluidXP to come in.)

ls7corvete · Oct 31, 2004

Some people dont like the poly because it can crack. Use plastic barbs and be careful, you shouldnt have a problem.

Alacritan · Oct 31, 2004

If you turn your computer off at night, over time and enough thermal cycles (cold to hot to cold) can make the top brittle and cause it to crack. If you run your system 24/7 this isn't an issue. If you do go with the aluminum top you'll need some form of corrosion inhibitor to prevent the aluminum and copper interacting. Sure the aluminum is annodized but it'll happen eventually.

If only Dtek offered a copper top, since that would be the sensible thing.

sunrunner20 · Oct 31, 2004

Well, Maby I could make one, or order one off of emachineshop.com, All you need is a drill press and a large enough chunck of copper.

Think They would sell if i started makeing them?

sunrunner20 · Oct 31, 2004

Oh, and it looks like i'd need a tap to thread the holes. But a Tap is like $5 tops.

Alacritan · Oct 31, 2004

It would be worth it if you could do it for or $10 or $15.

But I spent almost as much on my waterblock (Storm G4) as I did on my processor (Sempron 3100+), so my sense of relative worth may be a bit off.

sunrunner20 · Oct 31, 2004

I think the most expensive part would be buying the copper stock, and finding a Machinists block for Lapping the copper stock after shaping it correctly.

I also noticed that Bill A. got a White Water with a copper top.

Why don't we get one?

sunrunner20 · Nov 1, 2004

If somebody here would be nice enough to meashure the thickness of the WW's top please :santa:

Bugsmasher · Nov 1, 2004

Bah...humbug!

I am one of those on/off computer users and I do have an acrylic top on my D-D RBX block. Looks like its time to get the brass top after all.

Has anyone that did experience a failure seen any warning signs? Discolored acrylic? Fogging via micro fractures? Etc?

HiProfile · Nov 1, 2004

Was BillA's WW a Little River (made by Cathar) version or the D-Tek version? All of Cathar's blocks shipped with copper tops as far as I know. As for the tap, they cost over $10 for such a large tap. You'll have a hard time finding one that costs less than that after you include shipping. Also, taps that large require LOTS of force, time, and a very straight path through the metal (hard to do with such a large tap). I doubt many people would want mis-angled barbs. People would probably buy them but not for much, and IMO after the time you put into it, it won't be worth it to sell them. Essentially only a good idea if you have lots of spare time and don't want a 2nd job.

BTW the two upper plates were 3/16" thick IIRC. You could make the top plate thicker, but that would be reeeally hard to make threads in.

PROkillernoodle · Nov 1, 2004

You will not have a problem with thermal cycling with acrylic tops. You will have a problem with teflon tape and metal barbs though, dont use them. I would get the AL top, mine has been great to me for a few years now.

Alacritan · Nov 1, 2004

HiProfile said:
Was BillA's WW a Little River (made by Cathar) version or the D-Tek version? All of Cathar's blocks shipped with copper tops as far as I know. As for the tap, they cost over $10 for such a large tap. You'll have a hard time finding one that costs less than that after you include shipping. Also, taps that large require LOTS of force, time, and a very straight path through the metal (hard to do with such a large tap). I doubt many people would want mis-angled barbs. People would probably buy them but not for much, and IMO after the time you put into it, it won't be worth it to sell them. Essentially only a good idea if you have lots of spare time and don't want a 2nd job.

BTW the two upper plates were 3/16" thick IIRC. You could make the top plate thicker, but that would be reeeally hard to make threads in.

Unless you have free access to industrial equiptment, I'd have to agree. It would be worth it if you're just doing it for yourself though.

sunrunner20 · Nov 1, 2004

emachineshop.com will probally pull though and do it for me if I start haveing them made.

ZachM · Nov 1, 2004

Logic Cooling made a D-Tek WW copper top. They went out of business though. I think you might as well go buy a Storm if you want to spend all of the time and cash to make a copper top for the WW. The Storm is a better performer, and after the cost of a new WW + the price of a copper top, the Storm would probably end up at pretty much the same price. Also they have a derlin top that won't crack, and won't corrode.

Fluid XP has corrsion inhibitors I'm pretty sure. You won't have to worry about the aluminum top on the WW.

sunrunner20 · Nov 1, 2004

Fluid XP+ has a PH of 7, so corrosion should not really be a problem.

Poly or Al D-tek WW WaterBlock

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