waterblock for dd block

i have an old maze2 laying around that is just collecting dust. i was wondering how effective it would be if i were to modify it and use it as an evaporator for a single stage cooler (remover all solder/ braze the entire thing up + suction line and cap tube).

has anyone tried this method over making their own dd block and how well did it work?

It seems to me that all the DD blocks you see are a heck of a lot bigger than waterblocks. They have to have a pretty large surface area and volume for the refrigerent to evaporate in, so I think a waterblock would just be too small.

I used a BEcooling jagged edge water block on my first system years ago. It came from BEcooling silver soldered so it held up to thermal expansion and the pressure with no problems (although at the time I was only using r134a), if it had been regular plumbers solder very unlikely it would of held up. It performed pretty well, not as good as some of my homemade evaps, but it was much easier, even if I had had to of brazed the block up.... As far as the size, once again it will work, it will get cold, may not be as effiecient as some of the other designs, but if your looking to start out an save some major cash/pain, then it will do the job... As far as size, from experience as well if you look around at some of the evaps made by chilly1 or baker, the smaller the phyical diameter the easier it is to insulate and mount without issues,, but do not mistake this for the internal suface area, the more the better.. It might be somewhat of a pain to mount and insulate that block on a socket A board due to the mounting holes being so close, but its not impossible, a little creative thinking and it can be done.

Good luck with your adventure and keep us updated.

if you can seal it, i bet it would make a decent evap

I dont remember how the maze 2 was designed, but if one of its inlets is above the core that should be where the cap tube enters, because the flash point (point where the refrigerant leaves the cap tube and enters the lower pressure) is the coldest point for the refrigerant. With a single layer maze I do not recommend running the cap tube inside the return line, because you then have the cap tube and the return line entering and exiting at the same piont and the refrigerant will take the path of least resistance, basicly be sucked right back up by the return line.

that's what the inside of a maze2 looks like. looks suited for an evap, as zork said, the captube should come in over the core and the suction line should be on the outer hole.