[Electron Chaser]

This thread is mainly for the few on the forums who have picked up one of those PC Power and Cooling 600 Watt Monsters off of E-Bay recently.







Ok So let’s get started with some information on the PSU.

This is not an ATX Power Supply it is a WTX it is a PSU configuration that had a very brief existence so brief in fact that this is all I’m going to say about it.

This PSU was originally designed for a Sun Microsytem Computer.

and finally you may have noticed the Color configurations are different. Not as different as they first appear though.

Here is a link to the *.pdf file for the pinout of the PSU.

I highly suggest you Print this and keep it close at hand. If you compare this to a standard ATX pinout you will see many simularites. As a matter of fact other then all the 3.3VDC are Gray (Usually Orange) and the Power-OK wire is Orange (Usally Gray) they are identical with the exception that pin 18 is empty. This is where you would normally have your -5VDC wire connected. While this is not necessary to run a PC it does serve several purposes mostly related to Motherboard temperature readings and other various miscellaneous duties. So for us it is a necessity. There is -5VDC on the PSU and I will show you where it is hidden and how to tap into it later on in the post.

The first thing we need to do is jumpstart it and see if it works.

This is not your average PSU so hooking the Green to black isn't going to work.

You will need to do the following things in order to make this PSU work.






1st get a jumper and on the P1 Connecter (The 20 Pin one) connect Pin 8 (The Orange, Power Good) to any ground (Black wire)

2nd You will need a few resistors I have found that a 100 Ohm resister with a .5 watt capacity minimum jumpered between the 3.3VDC sense wires. Which are on the P2 Connecter. Pins 9 and 11.

Next to the same with a 75 Ohm resistor on 5VDC sense wires on pins 21 and 23.

Take extra precautions the legs of the resistors do not touch each other.

Finally you will need at a minimum 2 Hard Drives maybe 3 hooked up to the PSU to act as a load in order for it to start.

Then as usual jumper the Green wire on P1 connector to any ground and it should power right up.

On my next post we will get into.

Modifying the PSU connectors and the proper way to hook up the sense wires in order for them to do their job of monitoring the 3.3VDC and 5VDC voltage to ensure they stay within tolerance and where to solder the wire on the board for your -5VDC Voltage.

[nissmo300]

why dont you just get one of these

[99'erForever]

Thank you so much. I will have to pick up some resistors tomorrow.

[capmuffin]

Originally Posted by nissmo300

why dont you just get one of these

My psu came w/ one (470 model) along w/ instructions. I would call pcpc and have them mail you some info on it.

[Electron Chaser]

Originally Posted by capmuffin

My psu came w/ one (470 model) along w/ instructions. I would call pcpc and have them mail you some info on it.

I have already spoken to PCP&C on the phone how do you think I got the Pinout. This is not an AT PSU. It is not even close to an AT. It is a hybrid ATX. That connector would do no good. I have had the PSU running already just to test it here is a Pic. The problem is not the 20 pin connector that is the easy one. The hard part is the 24 Pin connector. It has both and they both do something completely different.

This is on an old P3 800 machine AKA "Lab Monkey" off of the PSU.

[Aphex_Tom_9]

I <3 you Electron Chaser

[Diablo23RD]

Originally Posted by Electron Chaser

It is a hybrid ATX. That connector would do no good. I have had the PSU running already just to test it here is a Pic. The problem is not the 20 pin connector that is the easy one. The hard part is the 24 Pin connector. It has both and they both do something completely different.

Wow, Hybrid is mean you can run 2 systems with one PS, one AMD 64 using 20 pin connector, and one Intel Socket T using 24pin connector. (J/K)

Look like 20pin connector missing one pin?

[Aphex_Tom_9]

Originally Posted by Diablo23RD

Look like 20pin connector missing one pin?

yep, the -5vdc wire, which must be soldered in from a part inside the psu...

[Electron Chaser]

I'm waiting for my camera to recharge so I can take a few more pics to finish the next part in this post. It is fairly complex so I want to make sure everyone has all the information they need to complete it safely. I will have it finished tomorrow. Sorry for the delay.

[Aphex_Tom_9]

that's cool, i wont have the thing until sometime next week (i think) anyway.

[Evilsizer]

just wondering but have you weighed the beast?

[Electron Chaser]

On this post we will take a look at the inside of this beast as well as instruct where you need to solder the wire onto the PCB of the PSU for your -5 VDC Power.

Dis-assembly is pretty straight forward remove the cover and remove the fan screws as well. It unscrews from outside of the case.

There are 3 screws that hold the Main PCB in the case there 2 in the front one in the back left corner. The Back right corner is held in with a Tab so you must remove the PCB by pulling it towards you first. DO NOT try to pick it up. You may snap off the back right corner of the board if you do.

OK first let's have a look at the inside of this thing. She is big and built like a brick you-know-what.

Here is a Top view of the power board you do not need to remove this from the case.





On the front of the board. What I call the front it is the side facing you when you remove the cover. There is a Red and Black wire you will need to unplug in order to remove the PCB. DO NOT FORGET TO DO THIS!!! before you try and remove it. There are 3 screws that hold the PCB in place remove these and pull the board towards you. Be extremely Careful what you hands come in contact with. Unless you discharged the board before you removed it it may still be holding a charge in the capacitors. Even if you did don't take any chances. don't touch any of the traces.

Here is a pic from the front after I have already removed the PCB (Printed Circuit Board) from the Case.



Here is a shot from the side.



and from the top



You may have noticed the wire tie looped around the Cross brace of the 2 Heatsinks holding the wires off to side a bit. I highly recommend you do the same the wires run right over where you need to solder so pull them out of the way to make sure you don't melt the insulation.

Here is a shot of the back



Ok now looking at the rear of the PCB you can see the small vertical HS on the right and on the far edge of the board you can see where the -12VDC(BLUE) wires are soldered. It is in this area where we need to solder the -5VDC wire on.

Here is a closeup of the area before I added the wire.



Take a length of STRANDED 18 AWG wire about 3 feet long (White wire would be preferable but if not use what you got. I used black because that was all I had.) and strip one end about a quarter of an inch back. twist the wires to keep them neat and LIGHTLY solder ("tin") the end of it.

Here it is after I wired it in.



Take extra precaution when soldering this wire on. BE VERY NEAT and TAKE YOUR TIME!!!!. Make sure you have the other wires out of your way and there are no obstructions. Furthermore make sure you have plenty of light to see with because it is a very tight area. You get one shot at this so do it right.

After you have completed this inspect your solder work closely and make sure the you did not short the any of the surrounding traces with excess solder. If everything looks good put all the wires back where you found them. Neatly run your new wire out with the rest of the bundle and re-assemble as required. This is the hardest part of the Mod. It is all downhill from here

[Electron Chaser]

Ok now that you have the PSU back together. Let's start by hooking up the -5VDC wire to the plug. I happened to have a old junker ATX PSU hanging around so I cannibalized the -5VDC Wire from the ATX Plug. Do the best you can but you will need to steal a wire from somewhere. If you don't have one hanging around take a black wire from the 24 Pin Connector. It is not like we are going to use it anyway and cut it back. Be careful not to ruin the plug pin removing it from the connector.

Ok now take some heatshrink slide it over one side. Insert your wire into the plug. and then cut your wire from the PSU to length. You want all the wires on you ATX cable to be the same length. Not only does it look neater but they are easier to manage then. Then solder them together and heatshrink. Here are a few Pics






The sense wires

The sense wires act as a way of regulating and self adjusting the 3.3 and 5 VDC power while it is under load so they always stay within spec. Also if they fall below or above they will shut down the PSU totally. In order for them to work correctly they must be connected to the load themselves. If they are not. It is like having a gremlin in your PSU turning the adjustment pots and oscillating your voltages. Which as we know is a very bad thing.

They should be connected as close to the load as possible and the wires should be the same length as the load wires you are using. Since we are not using the 24 Pin connector this means that we must connect them to the 20 Pin Connector.

Starting with the 3.3 sense wires which are the Gray/white wire(Pin 9) and the black/white wire (Pin 11) on the 24 pin connector cut them about 3 inches back from the plug.

Yes these 2 wires.



Next Cut the Gray (Pin 2) wire on the 20 pin connector the same distance back then solder the gray and white and the cut wire back together. Repeat this process for the Black wire using the (Pin 3) wire on the 20 Pin Connector.

DONT FORGET TO PUT THE HEATSHRINK ON FIRST.

A few pics





Repeat the process with the 5VDC sense wires. Cutting The Red/white wire (Pin 21) and the Black/White wire (Pin 23) on the 24 connector and soldering the Red sense wire to the Red wire (Pin 4) on the 20 Pin Connector and the Black sense wire to the Black wire (Pin 5) on the 20 Pin Connector.

Here is a pic.



Here it is all assembled.



Put some wire ties back on your ATX cable bundle and go power it up. Check out the voltages. PURE sweetness and rock solid stable. WOOT!!!!!



Disregard the resistors you see jumped into the 24 pin connector. I did one sense line set at a time Obviously I did the 3.3VDC first that is why you can still see them jumpering the 5VDC sense lines.



and now the 5VDC.



Yes "Lab Monkey" is still on and running. The voltages haven't fluctuated a bit and have been ROCK SOLID . I couldn't be more pleased with my results. This is a fantastic PSU my only regret is that I didn't buy another one.

Congrats on your good fortune to own one of these beauties and Good Luck on the Mod. I hope you found this helpful.

EC

[Electron Chaser]

Since we will not need the 24 Pin Connector. Feel free to steal any wires you need there are 4 3.3 VDC and 5VDC wires as well as 10 Ground wires. Plus a +12VDC and a -12 VDC wire.

You could the splice and split the +12 VDC wire and 2 grounds into a 12VDC ATX connector for your motherboard. I highly recommend this.

As for the 3.3 and 5 VDC. Run some LEDS with them a few 5V moded fans whatever you like.

If you do not plan to use them you can cut them back just make sure you cap or tape the ends of the wires if you do.

Sorry for the multiple posts. But with a Post this long I would have hate to lose it and have to start over from the beginning.

[Evilsizer]

damn thats nice! these were on ebay? damn i missed it

[Electron Chaser]

Originally Posted by Evilsizer

damn thats nice! these were on ebay? damn i missed it

Once in a while you get lucky. If it wasn't for Aphex_Tom_9 I wouldn't have even known about them.

I picked mine up for $9.99 plus shipping so it was under $25.00 total.

Oh and you asked about the weight. I would say it weighs in at about 9 pounds or so.

[Electron Chaser]

Evilsizer there is another up for sale on E-Bay so it looks as if you may have a chance to own one yet.

PC Power & Cooling 600 Watt TR60R SN1 Tower Supply

While I could/should buy it myself . I really don't have a need for it right now and would just end up sitting on a shelf.

[Aphex_Tom_9]

heh, i just learned that the 24-pin connectors can be used in 20-pin atx plugs...so this psu could technically power 2 rigs "oooooh"

[Evilsizer]

could as long as you dont have too much on the 12v rail....

[Electron Chaser]

Only 6 hours left. If anyone wants it

PC Power & Cooling 600 Watt TR60R SN1 Tower Supply

I would hate to see someone miss out on this deal. It is a VERY Nice PSU for the money.

To give you an idea of the Power an OCZ 520 is. (I know this because I have one in my lap reading the numbers off of it. )

+3.3V 28A
+5V 40A
+12 33A

This beast is

+3.3V 50A
+5V 70A
+12V 25A

It has adjustable Pots as well as sense lines on both the 3.3V and 5VDC Rails. that keep the voltage ROCK SOLID. Anyway don't say I didn't tell you about it.

[wardog50]

ihave one of these coming now should be here early next week.

VERY GOOD find and thread on modding the PSU.

Im definitley going to have to upgrade my case now though lol.

Wardog

[Aphex_Tom_9]

heh, i was expecting it to arrive at most by today, but it turns out the guy shipped it just yesterday, because there was a storm where he lives...oh well, ill be seeing it soon enough.
Im glad i found this thing in the first place...

[Electron Chaser]

Originally Posted by wardog50

ihave one of these coming now should be here early next week.

VERY GOOD find and thread on modding the PSU.

Im definitley going to have to upgrade my case now though lol.

Wardog

Congrats Wardog!!!

And once again Thanks to AT9 for the heads up. Or none of this would have happened.

[Aphex_Tom_9]

woo, mine came, im working on it.

[Aphex_Tom_9]

The insides of this thing are AMAZING! biggest heatsinks ive seen in a PSU and a ton of caps and regulators...it's awesome!

[Aphex_Tom_9]

by the way, there are 6 VR's in it...anyone know which ones do what?

[Evilsizer]

see if you can read the numbers off them and do a google...

[Electron Chaser]

Originally Posted by Aphex_Tom_9

by the way, there are 6 VR's in it...anyone know which ones do what?

I guess I will have to do another post on it. LOL By the way how is the mod coming?

[Aphex_Tom_9]

Originally Posted by Electron Chaser

I guess I will have to do another post on it. LOL By the way how is the mod coming?

pretty good, im splicing the wires, not sure how im going to do the -5v one though, my soldering iron is terrible

[yanz]

i'll see if i can find some wtx psu's here..
(hey EC, maybe you could write an article for the frontpage.. )