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Installed my XP-120 w/Delta - Now I am wearing Earplugs!

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sammy5gs

Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2003
Location
Atlanta, GA
Hey Guys...

I just switched my cooling on my 3500+ chip (o'clocked to 2.5ghz) from the Thermaltake Venus 12 to the Thermalright XP-120. I placed a Delta 120mm fan on that puppy that pumps 151 cfms (3100RPMs), but is doing it at a 53dba clip. It feels like I am about to take off when the computer is on.

Thus, is there an alternative fan I can place on the HS that can cool as well as keep quiet?

Suggestions and Recommendations are welcome!

Thanks!
 
sammy5gs said:
Hey Guys...

I just switched my cooling on my 3500+ chip (o'clocked to 2.5ghz) from the Thermaltake Venus 12 to the Thermalright XP-120. I placed a Delta 120mm fan on that puppy that pumps 151 cfms (3100RPMs), but is doing it at a 53dba clip. It feels like I am about to take off when the computer is on.

Thus, is there an alternative fan I can place on the HS that can cool as well as keep quiet?

Suggestions and Recommendations are welcome!

Thanks!

I use the 190 CFM Delta myself, it is a shame you don't like it. Perhaps you just need to quiet it a bit. I use one of these they work great and are cheap. With one of these the Delta can become any fan you want. I also recommend puttin a spacer made from a gutted 120mm fan between you fan and the HS. That will cut you noise by about 30% plus eliminate the dead spot in cooling. Have a look.

duct5.JPG


Installed_Duct.JPG
 
i cant seam ot find it but there is a link to a guy on ebay who sells 120mm 39 noise and around 100 cfm fans that i hear are great and for $5 they are a steel.
its someware on the firist 4 pages on this form i know , just saw it yesterday

edit: they talk about them a bit here http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=318753&highlight=Sanyo
go to the ebay auction, look at the other stuff this guy is selling and there should be some on sale
 
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Do you have a rheostat on your Delta? I use a 92mm Tornado, but at 9-10V usually so it isn't running full blast. Also, the Tornado sounded load at first, but after a while you don't even notice it. You are probably used to completely silent computers, just give it a while and buy a rheostat. It's not like you need 150 cfm's going through it constantly anyway. when I crank my Tornado to 110 cfm the temp only drops by 3° anyway. I just resign myself to staying around at a slightly higher temp.
 
Loud fans do tend to grow on you..lol

When I first hooked up my 92mm tornado I was like " No way am I using this.."..lol
and stuck it in a draw, then forgot about it for months.. hehe

Then I picked up the rheostat that Arch suggested and it was alot easier on the ears.
Now I have to admit for the most part its raised up all the way during testing and gaming.. But its nice to be able to lower it some when needed..
 
I dont run any of my air cooling without a pot or a fan controller. Makes for a more fulfilling sleep :)
 
Nub question. I bought some of those rheostats to use on my sanyo denki 120mm fans. I tested one out on a cooler master 80mm fan. What i did was,solder 2 wires from the regular +/- wires (leads) and hooked them up to the center and right,(than left after) turned to computer on...it wouldnt start! reset the psu....nothing.....took it out..it worked. Than i switched the rheostat to high power. Turned on didnt notice any difference,start turning it to low BOOM a little glowing (Fire) happened in the rheostat,comp stayed on,moved it to lower power again. PC powers off. The rheostat is still good (does same thing) is this my error? or the error from the crapp 350 generic PSU in my test comp?

is thier anyway to get these things working right. Next quarter in school i am taking robotics where i will be learning more about this subject. But i would like to know now :D as i have 3 sanyodenki 120's (tons of air flow) and on 80mm i would like to tame.

but the sanyo denki's off ebay are great fans great price,great shipping too
 
Well - quick update. I linked the Delta to my Hardcano fan controller (it is 9 instead of 10), and it feels as though the Delta is not spinning as fast as it was when it was hooked up straight through the mobo? Is it possible that even on MAX settings on the Hardcano that it can't handle the Delta?
 
Depends on the amp rating of your hardcano.

If you have a 4pin connector, or a 3-4 pin converter, you could try 7 or 5 volting the fans. I've got two of the same fans, and they start up readily at levels of 3V even, and push nice amount of air at 5V too.
 
capmuffin said:
Nub question. I bought some of those rheostats to use on my sanyo denki 120mm fans. I tested one out on a cooler master 80mm fan. What i did was,solder 2 wires from the regular +/- wires (leads) and hooked them up to the center and right,(than left after) turned to computer on...it wouldnt start! reset the psu....nothing.....took it out..it worked. Than i switched the rheostat to high power. Turned on didnt notice any difference,start turning it to low BOOM a little glowing (Fire) happened in the rheostat,comp stayed on,moved it to lower power again. PC powers off. The rheostat is still good (does same thing) is this my error? or the error from the crapp 350 generic PSU in my test comp?

is thier anyway to get these things working right. Next quarter in school i am taking robotics where i will be learning more about this subject. But i would like to know now :D as i have 3 sanyodenki 120's (tons of air flow) and on 80mm i would like to tame.
but the sanyo denki's off ebay are great fans great price,great shipping too


yeah it is your error. LOL

OK here is how you do it take the (+) plus wire from the plug and solder it to the center post. Then Take the left OR right post (which one you solder it on determines the direction you turn the controller) and solder the + plus lead that runs to the fan. That is it you are done. DO NOTHING WITH THE (-) Negative/Ground wire.

Nothing like creating a dead short across a variable resistor, They do make nice mini-heaters though huh? LOL

One other thing, I do industrial automation for a living if you have any questions concerning automation/robotics send me a PM.
 
Electron Chaser said:
yeah it is your error. LOL

OK here is how you do it take the (+) plus wire from the plug and solder it to the center post. Then Take the left OR right post (which one you solder it on determines the direction you turn the controller) and solder the + plus lead that runs to the fan. That is it you are done. DO NOTHING WITH THE (-) Negative/Ground wire.

Nothing like creating a dead short across a variable resistor, They do make nice mini-heaters though huh? LOL

One other thing, I do industrial automation for a living if you have any questions concerning automation/robotics send me a PM.

Yes they get very toasty :D thanks
 
sammy5gs said:
Hey Guys...

I just switched my cooling on my 3500+ chip (o'clocked to 2.5ghz) from the Thermaltake Venus 12 to the Thermalright XP-120. I placed a Delta 120mm fan on that puppy that pumps 151 cfms (3100RPMs), but is doing it at a 53dba clip. It feels like I am about to take off when the computer is on.

Thus, is there an alternative fan I can place on the HS that can cool as well as keep quiet?

Suggestions and Recommendations are welcome!

Thanks!

Try a YS Tech 120mm, kicks out 125 CFM and is much quieter and performs brilliantly!!

Heres mine attached to my XP120.

DSCF0022.JPG
 
Voodoo Rufus said:
I don't think you want to put this beast at 1A on a fan header, but some mainboards support speedfan.

O.K This is my config:
Vantec "Turbojet 56dB" Tornado (92mm) as the CPU fan. Its fed by a seperate PSU line. But, the fan-speed sensing plug is connected to the appropriate MoBo socket.

My question is, that is it possible in any way to limit the current drawn by the fan? I mean, although the fan is powered by the PSU and not the MoBo, can the MoBo (through the fan speed sensor) regulate the speed of the fan?
I was wondering if this works backwards i.e:
High speed=more current drawn (In the conventional case)
Low Speed (MoBo control in this special case)= (?) Less current
 
No, it cannot. The rpm line just sends pulses to the mainboard (how many per revolution depends on the fan).

If you place a fan on a power supply with both a voltmeter and ammeter, you can see that the current going into the fan is exponential just about, with near linearity at low voltages.

The only connectors/designs that woulld allow mobo control via PWM on the fan are a new type of 4 pin. 2 for power, 1 for rpms and 1 for telling the fan how fast to go I believe. I think it's an excellent idea, but might take a while to come through.
 
3 pin is 2 power leads and an rpm sensor lead. 4 pin take 2 power leads for 12V, with the other 2 unused (your standard molex connector).

Sleeved tails have a expandable mesh to clean up the wiring, with shrink tubing on either end.

Welcome to the Forums!
 
archilochus said:
Tame the BEAST... www.allelectronics.com Cat # RHE-15 ..$1.65 each + shipping.

Complete install details available. Just ask! :)

These sound great for doing what the commercial fan controllers do at a much lower cost. I'm thinking of cutting some holes in one of my 5.25'' face plates and mounting the rheostats thru them. Two questions...are there knobs available for them so they look nice? And is it still possible in such a setup to monitor fan speed? Thanks
 
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