Notices

Overclockers Forums > Hardware > Cooling > Water Cooling
Water Cooling Discussion devoted to blocks, pumps, radiators, reservoirs, tubing, and everything else to get you running smooth on a water loop
Forum Jump

upgrading watercooling

Post Reply New Thread Subscribe Search this Thread
 
 
Thread Tools
Old 12-04-04, 11:44 PM Thread Starter   #1
alinosa
Member

 
alinosa's Avatar 

Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: San Antonio, TX

10 Year Badge
 
upgrading watercooling


actually i'm only upgrading the block(s). Right now i have a maze 3 on my cpu and i have a gf4 ti block from dangerden. I'm looking to replace both of these and get one for my nb, since i had to put a fan on it when i got my new memory. I'd like to get the most effiicent one for each part, and hopefully they would match in appearance (since i have a window, might as well be nice to look at. I have a nice little chunk of change to throw at this so i'd like to do it right the first time around (second really).

So what do you think? I was thinking either the swiftech mcw6000 or the dangerden rbx-style blocks (1 in and 2 out) for the CPU. For the NB i guess the mc20 from swiftech, and i don't know about the video since my 6600 gt will be here monday and NO ONE has a block for it yet. Hence i'm still looking. I've got an ehiem 1250 so i don't think i'll need a new pump, especially since this one is still going strong and is silent compared to the PSU fans. Would an Iwaki pump be that much better than the one i have now?

I would REALLY like one of CATHAR's blocks, but i just don't think it will happen... but who knows?

thnx in advance

allen

__________________
Intel Pentium4 640 @ 4000 MHz (250x16) stock volts
MCP650>BIX3>Cathar Storm G4>MCW60>DangerDen 5.25" Res, tygon 7/16"
pqi turbo ddr400
DFI Lanparty 875P-T
powerstream 520
eVGA 6800U@ 465/1100 on an Acer 22 inch WS LCD
Lian Li PC-G70B
HEAT
Lenovo T61p-> Desktop crushing machine.

Last edited by alinosa; 12-05-04 at 12:13 AM.
alinosa is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 12-05-04, 12:59 AM   #2
Achilles17
Member

 
Achilles17's Avatar 

Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: New York City

 
well, i dont really think you need a nb block, it just restricts flow and adds more heat to the loop. Theres a big debate about that, but overall it shouldnt really give you any preformance increase, just get rid of a fan. The swiftech mcx-159a would be great though. Its a heatsink and fan, not a waterblock, but its only at 18dba and preforms very well. Its a little cheaper than the water blocks too. But if you are insistant on getting a nb block, the swiftech mcw20 is good, least flow restriction out of all the nb blocks i believe.

for the cpu, the mcw6000 (or 6002 if you have 1/2" ID tubing) is great, its cheap and offers great preformance, equal or better than the RBX or TDX, and without the third barb, so tubing routing is easier. Its also all copper, even though you could get the brass top for the DD block, but its the same preformance wise.

Your pump is fine, an Iwaki would be better, yes, but kind of unnecessary. The eheim should do fine with just the cpu and gpu block. If you add an NB block, that might hurt things a little, another reason not to get it.

Finally, as for your card, I would just wait and see. It is entirley possible that its holes are the same or very simillar to the 6800 cards, or even some other series. Chances are you could mod some block to fit on there, and a block or adapter will undoubtedly come out soon for the 6600 series. I say just wait, i bet within a month there will be an easy solution to get a block onto that card, most likley less time than that. If nothing else, you could always concoct your own contraption and do it yourself!

__________________
Opteron 175
DFI Lanparty UT NF4 Ultra-D
2x1gb G.Skill PC4000
eVGA 7800GTX
Storm G4/Laing D5/Fusion HL/2-302 with 2 120mm Sanyo Denkis/Tygon R-3603
Xaser III V1000D
Antec EPS12v 550w TruPower
X-Fi Xtrememusic
Logitech Z-5500's
Achilles17 is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 12-05-04, 09:21 AM Thread Starter   #3
alinosa
Member

 
alinosa's Avatar 

Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: San Antonio, TX

10 Year Badge
 
thnx for the reply achilles. The biggest concern for cooling the NB with a block is the noise. I've got a 40 mm fan forcing air through a "custom" shroud that moves air out only one side of the sink so it blows over the mosfets too. this way they all stay warm instead of burning hot. But it's like hearing a turbo spool up on a car... kind of cool at first but ends up being like a bug in your ear. I've thought about just adapting my maze 3 to the 6600gt but i haven't gotten the card yet (comes in tomorrow the 6th of Dec) so i'll take a look. The only thing that gives me pause is the funky PCI-E( or X not sure) converter that has it's own sink... i dunno what i'll be doing about that... but rest assured, water will be moving heat off that card eventually.

i forgot to add a quick question.. on the nb and gpu blocks, there is a funny looking connector. No barb just a hole with a piece of plastic (I have a pic)

what is this??? all my parts have 1/2 inch barbs, and this looks dangerous... is it? and is it easier than wrestling 3/8 inch tygon onto 1/2 inch barbs?

how do they work? do i need special tubing?

thnx
Attached Images
 

__________________
Intel Pentium4 640 @ 4000 MHz (250x16) stock volts
MCP650>BIX3>Cathar Storm G4>MCW60>DangerDen 5.25" Res, tygon 7/16"
pqi turbo ddr400
DFI Lanparty 875P-T
powerstream 520
eVGA 6800U@ 465/1100 on an Acer 22 inch WS LCD
Lian Li PC-G70B
HEAT
Lenovo T61p-> Desktop crushing machine.

Last edited by alinosa; 12-05-04 at 10:01 AM.
alinosa is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 12-05-04, 11:22 PM Thread Starter   #4
alinosa
Member

 
alinosa's Avatar 

Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: San Antonio, TX

10 Year Badge
 
anyone??
nobody knows how to explain these connectors?

__________________
Intel Pentium4 640 @ 4000 MHz (250x16) stock volts
MCP650>BIX3>Cathar Storm G4>MCW60>DangerDen 5.25" Res, tygon 7/16"
pqi turbo ddr400
DFI Lanparty 875P-T
powerstream 520
eVGA 6800U@ 465/1100 on an Acer 22 inch WS LCD
Lian Li PC-G70B
HEAT
Lenovo T61p-> Desktop crushing machine.
alinosa is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 12-06-04, 09:30 PM   #5
kjeeks3337
Registered



Join Date: Dec 2004

 
i thought u could screw swiftech barbs in those holes
kjeeks3337 is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 12-06-04, 10:51 PM   #6
Achilles17
Member

 
Achilles17's Avatar 

Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: New York City

 
You shouldnt have to worry about connectors, I think what you do is you just attach those little plastic things to the end of your tubes (they fit on easily), and then snap them into place in the waterblock. I think you would only need an extra piece if you have 1/2" ID tubing, to convert it to the 3/8" barbs, but you should be fine there.

Also, the MCX-159 makes next to no noise, 18 dba is practically inaudible, so dont worry about that. As for your custom mosfet cooling, you can always replace the 40mm fan with something bigger, just create a shroud for the shroud so the fan doesnt have a ginormous deadspot. Or you could take it out all together, if you sink up your mosfets and have a decent amount of air flowing through your case, you should be ok unless you have an absolutly rediculous overclock going. a 120mm blowhole should suffice, with some other fans taking in air. I just have 2 quiet 80mm fans in the back and a 120mm fan on top as exhaust, and my intake are my 2 120mm fans on my heatercore. So the air that goes in the case is kinda warm, but its not like my mosfets are burning hot, and I have my 3.0C at 270 FSB.

Also, hows the card look? look like theres any way to mount a block thats already out there on it, or will you have to wait for some kinda adapter?

__________________
Opteron 175
DFI Lanparty UT NF4 Ultra-D
2x1gb G.Skill PC4000
eVGA 7800GTX
Storm G4/Laing D5/Fusion HL/2-302 with 2 120mm Sanyo Denkis/Tygon R-3603
Xaser III V1000D
Antec EPS12v 550w TruPower
X-Fi Xtrememusic
Logitech Z-5500's
Achilles17 is offline   QUOTE Thanks
Old 12-07-04, 07:54 AM Thread Starter   #7
alinosa
Member

 
alinosa's Avatar 

Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: San Antonio, TX

10 Year Badge
 
well the card is... different. the gpu is rotated~45 degrees on the pcb. and the bridge chip is too. In another thread someone mentioned the bridge chip not getting hot, but mine is still warmer than i'd like. Hopefully, the bridge chip and gpu are the same height, because my maze3 looks like it will cover both. i just need to figure out how to mount it. i might only cover the gpu with the block and put one of the thermaltake ramsinks i have laying around on it. We'll see though, and again, thnx for the info.

__________________
Intel Pentium4 640 @ 4000 MHz (250x16) stock volts
MCP650>BIX3>Cathar Storm G4>MCW60>DangerDen 5.25" Res, tygon 7/16"
pqi turbo ddr400
DFI Lanparty 875P-T
powerstream 520
eVGA 6800U@ 465/1100 on an Acer 22 inch WS LCD
Lian Li PC-G70B
HEAT
Lenovo T61p-> Desktop crushing machine.
alinosa is offline   QUOTE Thanks

Post Reply New Thread Subscribe


Overclockers Forums > Hardware > Cooling > Water Cooling
Water Cooling Discussion devoted to blocks, pumps, radiators, reservoirs, tubing, and everything else to get you running smooth on a water loop
Forum Jump

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search


Mobile Skin
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:26 AM.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
You can add these icons by updating your profile information to include your Heatware ID, Benching Profile ID or your Folding/SETI profile ID. Edit your profile!
X

Welcome to Overclockers.com

Create your username to jump into the discussion!

New members like you have made this the best community on the Internet since 1998!


(4 digit year)

Why Join Us?

  • Share experience
  • Max out your hardware
  • Best forum members anywhere
  • Customized forum experience

Already a member?