Well I couldn't resist dismanteling

My MCP650, I learnt some neat litle facts about it

A: The two pins may be a speed programing interface, they seem to put out a 3.8 Volt ref that goes to the controler IC, so you may be able to chang its RPM by pulling it up or down. I still yet have no conclusive idea how ever, so if you try it and it blows up, I hold no liability.

B: The power MosFETs that drive the coiles are directly behind the blue backing, so if one where to get one of the old 486 round style threaded HeatSinks you could screw it on the back and make a very good conection thermaly to all 4 MosFETs (I plan on doing this just for the hardcore looks let alone the sweet cooling effect it will have for them MosFETs, may even extend the life of it. Oh and with an HS right on the Power drive phase overVolting will be safer due to added cooling !

C: One could improve the thermal interface of the actual, actuator coiles by removing them and remounting them with AS-Thermal Epoxy. The way they mount the internals of the pump make mods very inviting & easy.

We need to crack the secret of the two pins though, I have a strong feeling once we crack the secret it'll unleash loads of fun things we can do with the pump.

your nuts

sleepyzman said:

your nuts

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hahaha as i read the post, i was thinking about replying with the same thing.

Nah, experimentation is the only way we learn new things (unfortunately it also often leads to broken, dismantled, blown up, shot off, bloody, or otherwise F'd up parts and equipment).

I'll bet they said the same thing to the first guy who said, "Hey I had this cool idea, im gonna take an aquarium pump, a hollowed out peice of copper, and a radiator, and run water through my computer".

I like pulling things apart myself, so more power to ya. And, no, I don't want to know how much money I've spent buying and/or replacing stuff I've destroyed experimenting, but it is fun.

sounds fun... i have 3 D4's sitting here at home... LMK if any of ytour planned mods can help performance at all

hehe I have tons of experiance with doing this kind of stufe. I'm using the second one to look at. The 2 pins are my main objective. they do SOME THING but what is the question.

XeonStrikeForce said:

hehe I have tons of experiance with doing this kind of stufe. I'm using the second one to look at. The 2 pins are my main objective. they do SOME THING but what is the question.

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It was reported that with a JUMPER on the 2 pins, the pump would NOT start below 10V, without the jumper there is not the 10v limit. I believe this may have been proven wrong though however, and I am curious myself.

AHHHHHHH, the ba*terds removed the Numbers on the chips GRRRRR

Mine came without any jumper on the two pins and I've been running it at 7V for about 6 months now without any problem...

mine has nothing on the two pins they come like that by defualt

XeonStrikeForce said:

AHHHHHHH, the ba*terds removed the Numbers on the chips GRRRRR

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This is common. Just about every manufacturer wants to hide what they're using. Cant have us customers making modifications now, can we?

Lancelot said:

Mine came without any jumper on the two pins and I've been running it at 7V for about 6 months now without any problem...

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Yeah they come (for watercooling) WITHOUT the jumper. IT is WITHOUT the jumper there is no voltage restriction.

well it all so meens they used a realy common chip, hence why they needed to hide it.

HERE is a thread i did on cooling the insides of a D4 pump and how it might help.

Ya I'm looking for some thing more stream lined lol, like a nice heat sink and what not.

hum... I have one with the jumper, one without... one is a DD and the other is a Swifty... wonder if they differ in any other way...

Anybody got some detail shots of the PCB? (both sides)