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How to purge with a T connector?

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Old 03-09-05, 05:42 PM Thread Starter   #1
stang8118
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How to purge with a T connector?


Sorry to sound like a n00b, but i have never used a T connector before in my h20 setup. My old watercooling was a fill and bleed system. How would i go about purging the air with a T connector? My setup is gonna be Eheim 1250, DD single 120mm rad+fan, DD RBX copper CPU block. All 1/2".

What order should i run the setup? Pump>cpu>rad>pump?

Also in the future i am going to be running a vga block, would i just add that after the CPU in the loop?

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Old 03-09-05, 05:53 PM   #2
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Talking How about this?


Run cooling like this
Pump>Radiator>Cpu>Pump

This way you will extract as much heat the pump puts into the cooling loop , and disipate it throught the Radiator.

I use a tee like a trap for the bubbles.I install the tee right on the hot output from water block to the pump.


^ > Dead fill leg to catch bubbles and easy filling.
Cpu output(hot)>Tee>Pump


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Last edited by massraptor; 03-09-05 at 05:54 PM. Reason: format
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Old 03-09-05, 05:54 PM   #3
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pump>rad>cpu>gpu

You should have the pump before the rad to cool any heat produced by the pump. You don't want to have the pump putting heat into the loop and going straight to your cpu. The T-Line goes before the intake of the pump or the highest point, whichever is easier for you.

EDIT: massraptor, beat me to it

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Old 03-09-05, 05:58 PM   #4
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Talking Make sure to cap dead leg.


Here you will need to cap the deadleg with something like this from Danger Den. These make life som much easier.I just leave mine loose in the case.I haven't taken the time to cut a hole in my tower yet.(too lazy to break out Knock out set and bust a hole )

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Old 03-09-05, 06:06 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegreek
pump>rad>cpu>gpu

You should have the pump before the rad to cool any heat produced by the pump. You don't want to have the pump putting heat into the loop and going straight to your cpu. The T-Line goes before the intake of the pump or the highest point, whichever is easier for you.

EDIT: massraptor, beat me to it
not that important. its better to route with the least amount of tubing

http://www.overclockers.com/articles1088/

Quote:
Myth: The order of components has a significant impact on temps (eg, the radiator must be before the CPU).

Reality: The order of components makes a difference of less than 0.5ºC in most watercooling systems.

...

So, do what allows for the simplest tubing runs - tubing length/kinking will have a greater impact on temps.
Quote:
Myth: A T-line must be at the top of the system or water will leak out when you take the top off.

Reality: If the water were to leak out, air would have to replace the water. Since the rest of the system is sealed, air can't get in to replace the water. Thus, no water will leak out of an opened T-line unless there is a leak in the top of your loop.
so set it up the way that uses the least tubing. t-line right before pump is good, but not required.

to fill with a t-line, just pour in water and turn on the pump. keep pouring so the pump doesnt run dry, or else you'll probably break it. after a while, most of the air will have come out. shake the setup around to move any water bubbles. it may take a day or to, so keep an eye on water levels.

Last edited by zip22; 03-09-05 at 06:13 PM.
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Old 03-09-05, 06:11 PM Thread Starter   #6
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Thanks for the responces.

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Old 03-09-05, 06:28 PM   #7
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Not sure if you are going to use an addative liek Zerex or Water Wetter but if you are I would recomend putting in the addative before bleeding the system. Addatives such as those lower waters viscocity and as a result make it harder for air to form large bubbles. The result is lots of small bubbles which are more easily pushed around. In my experience it helps to bleed to the system faster.

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Old 03-09-05, 07:56 PM Thread Starter   #8
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Ok i am starting to understand how to use a T connector. But do i 'need' one of THESE in order to use the T line? Or can i just fill from it and cap it off with a 1/2" bolt? I really don't wanna buy one of these because it'll cost almost \$9 to get it shipped to me, plus i am trying to do this cheap.

Can i just get something from Home Depot that'll work the same way, or make it easier/safer to fill from the t line?

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Old 03-09-05, 08:22 PM   #9
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you dont need that at all. i got a female hose barb and a plug that screws into it for a couple dollars at home depot. it works fine.
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Old 03-09-05, 08:27 PM Thread Starter   #10
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Ok i've spent the last hour or so reading up on T line type h20 setups. Basically the water flow will go straight threw the line without coming out the T right? Or am i reading this stuff totally wrong? If i am reading it right i know exactly what to do now lol... if not i am totally lost ^_^

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Old 03-09-05, 08:33 PM   #11
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yup you're right. the way it works is the water just keeps going straight, but the bubbles rise to the top.
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Old 03-09-05, 08:40 PM Thread Starter   #12
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Ok sweet, i think i can pull off putting my T line toward the top of the loop. All depends if i can fit my rad on the back of my case, or if i need to cut a hole on the side

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Old 03-09-05, 08:46 PM   #13
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you can delete your posts. hit edit, then right at the top change it to "delete post" and click the button.

you DO NOT need your t-line at the highest point. put it wherever it fits best
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Old 03-09-05, 08:58 PM Thread Starter   #14
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Ok thanks a bunch for the info zip22 and everyone else! Greatly appreciated.

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Old 03-09-05, 10:32 PM   #15
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I purge my system by cycling the pump on and off in short bursts, that should help get rid of huge pockets of air. Once I get down to the smaller bubbles I cycle the pump on and off while either rocking the case from side to side (or back to front) and also tapping on the lines to get rid of the really small bubbles. Works for me.

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