New water block design,

Right here we go I have been thinking which is dangerous for me as it is but I have come up with a new design for my water block

Right so I have a copper pipe that is 1 inch diameter or as near as i can find in the shop with a head to match that will hopefully screw on but I don't know till I go and look. from this I will have a small amount of pipe and then another head, or I might just weld/soldier them together.

This gives me a really small water block that should transfer the heat away really really quickly or it should in theory.

Th base of the block I am hoping will be 1/2 mm thick and into it I will encrave very fine lines to increase the surface area above the block.

The water will be thrust down onto the water blocks base and then carried out by the other pipe at the side both pipes will be welded/soldiered into place and have silicone rubber gel around them to make it water tight

The to hold it in place I will attack the copper pipe frame, I know it doesn't look pritty but iw will hold it in place with bolts that goe through to the motherboard.

Wot u thing, will it work or am I barking up the wrong well in this case design, any thoughts appreciates but I have to make one cheap for part of my £20 challenge

Do you whink a 22mm pipe end would do it

the preasure from mounting will warp it and possibly damage the core by chipping the edges if you have only a 1/2 mm base

can you draw a picture of your design? Maybe Im the only one that cant picture it?

jamesavery22 said:

can you draw a picture of your design? Maybe Im the only one that cant picture it?

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Yeah I'm kinda lost as far as what you are trying to accomplish.

A diagram would really help.

Hope this helps cos it is a very very very low quality drawing as soon as I get my 3d design software working I will do a better render

that will work. do yourself a favor though, the top inlet pipe should extend down through the 40mm pipe to about 1/2" away from the bottom of the stop. Then the outlet should be placed up near the top of the cap so that the path of waterflow is sure to hit the area right above the core and swirl up to the outlet.

also as said above, everyone I've talked to says that the SMALLEST base thickness should be 1mm, and that is if you have micro channels that are 1mm at the valley and at least 2mm at the crest of the channel. If you dont have microchannels, I'd stick with 2-3mm of base thickness. That of course is if you use copper which I assume you are since you're talking about soldering.

yes I am using copper and thanx for the advice, I am using miro channels I think and the copper will have a thickness of a couple of mills to start with and I will half that I think with channels

Also I was wondering wot people though of me narrowing the end of the copper pipe that is entering to create a higher pressure jet to hit the base with or would this just put pressure on the pump whic is unneeded.

Also can anyone give me an estimation of the temp I should get givern my system that is in another post and most of you that have resonded have looked at it so I arn't going to explain it again but how reliable will this type of design be.

Oh and has anyone got any ideas about how to hold this down on to the CPU I was planning on doing it by holding it onto the computers panel where you put the screws for holding the mother board on next to the CPU however I need to design a rame to support my heat sink for this, any ideas cos best I have at the moment is to soldier a square patern of copper piping to fit the size and then soldier the heat sink onto this and then hold all of it down but any other suggestions would be welcome

Intrepid_ward said:

this just put pressure on the pump whic is unneeded.

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In a single waterjet style you just want one big wide jet of it. Cathar has proved that if you use microchannels, putting a piece of material to turn your flow into a series of small microjets can increase heat transfer and lower processor temps by a degree or 2C. That is EXTREMELY hard to machine by hand though, so beware such an undertaking.

As far as a hold down, drill a hole through a plate of some kind in the center and slide it over your inlet pipe. then drill mounting holes in that and bolt down to your mobo

Any idea wot I could use for this cos I am still working to that £20 budget and so I can' ggo Out and bus some sheet steel or sheet copper to use, wot u think about me cuttin a couple of right angle brackets up into peices and then welding them to gether to kind of give a plate with one lower down in centre and 2 higher up n the edge

Intrepid_ward said:

Hope this helps cos it is a very very very low quality drawing as soon as I get my 3d design software working I will do a better render

Click to expand...

That looks like a coppercap waterblock to me...

something similar to this:

ye thats the sort of Idea I had may I ask where you got that picture, did u make that WB or someone else I could talk to or is there a step by step I could read through

I make them myself. That picture of the waterblock was an experiment before I made this one The design is nearly identical between the two except for size.

Edit: Garynator has made waterblocks like this as well, you should check out his threads on that. One Here is also a good one

Thanx,

Oh and I have got some .5 mm sheet copper would that b any good at a top or isn't ti strong enough

it could seal the top if you soldered it, but you would have to use something else on top of it to take the pressure of mounting. Anything, like a piece of wood, some scrap thick gague steel. ghettocomp used plexi as a hold down material, but you can use just about anything with some decent strength

cool thanx i was thinking bout holding it down with a cd u know the ones you right onto cos i can also get some plastic glue to give it as gud seal wot think would that work

you want to use a blank cd as a hold down? that wont work...

I dont mean to be obtuse, but you need a decent amount of pressure on the block to keep good contact with the core. a cd will break under those kind of forces if not immediately, then over time

Ye i c wot u mean wot bout clamping 5 else six together maaybe even 10 would that work, I could glue them and bolt them all over but the CD'd will hang out far enough for me to bolt onto the case, I could also support them with some tubing as well

i think he means to glue several together to make the hold down plate... i think that might work if he used 4 or 5... as long as the glue is spread so it makes conact across the whole surface of each disc...