[Patrick_]

Originally Posted by Tay

You'd think correctly. You need fresh air coming in, think of them like intake fans.

As for the heater core, try to get an '86 chevette.

Yeah. I'm thinking cut off the top of my case, that double heatercore will just fit, but then again, once I get feedback, a single might be better and better performance/cost, because I already have a 120mm fan but will need to buy another for the double heatercore.

[Patrick_]

Ok guys I'm seeing a Mustang and Bronco heatercores nice and cheap on eBay... do you think these will perform better than the double heatercore (11" x 6" x 2") from a '77 bonneville?

[RangerXLT8]

Originally Posted by Damian

Yeah. From what I've heard, though, filling a T-line takes a while.

This is my first WC setup and I filled through a T-Line and it took overnight to get all the air out of it, but that's not bad, I added more water every few hrs as the air seaped out.

As far as pumps, just think, if your pump fails your system is in big trouble. When I looked for a pump, I looked for reliability, I had no problems paying for my Eheim 1250, because they are known to be reliable, but I've never even heard of that Aqua pump your talking about so I cannot comment on it.

The TDX block is an excellent block, just make sure you have the water flowing the correct way through it, when I first got my loop running I had it backwards!

[Skeen]

Originally Posted by Patrick_

Ok guys I'm seeing a Mustang and Bronco heatercores nice and cheap on eBay... do you think these will perform better than the double heatercore (11" x 6" x 2") from a '77 bonneville?

Just make sure that they're brass or copper and not aluminum.

[Patrick_]

Originally Posted by Skeen

Just make sure that they're brass or copper and not aluminum.

But will they perform better? I'd rather get a smaller rad that performs better than a huge one I can barely fit on my case. For example, here is a Bronco HeaterCore, here
is an unknown...

Here's another question: What do you guys recommend as the CFM for the 120mm fan[s] that will cool the rad? I'm thinking about this fan, which:

Pushes 77.26 CFM @ 35.48 dbA

Now, is that a good enough airflow for the radiator? I hope so, because really, any higher will make the dbA go up and any higher than ~35 I don't want.

Thanks!

[Skeen]

In general, the larger the rad the more heat can be shed from the water. There are some other factors, like how restrictive the rad is, but don't worry about that just yet.

Btw what kind of case, computer ect. do you have? There might be some people who can give you first-hand advice if we know what we're dealing with.

/edit: I suppose you have some sort of socket 478 cpu from the block you linked but other than that...

[Patrick_]

Oh sorry, yeah, I should probably put my specs in the sig:


P4 2.4C GHz @ 2.8 GHz (Can't go any higher, POS RAM)
ABIT IS7 i865PE
Thermaltake TR2-M12
512MB PC2700 Crucial 2.5-3-3-5
300GB Maxtor Diamondmax 9 ATA/133 16MB Cache
Albatron NVIDIA GeForce FX 5600 TURBO 128-bit 128MB DDR
LG CD-RW (w00t)
430W Award PSU
400W Something PSU
OS: GNU
Distro: Gentoo 2005.0
Kernel: 2.6.11-gentoo-r8

Note: You can see it is a 2.8GHz (my CPU) but I will be purchasing withing a few weeks some GeIL RAM to OC my P4 as high as it can go, and I'll increase the voltage as high as I need to (without overdoing it) so that should give you an idea.

I have a Dynapower Spyden case that isn't being sold (AFAIK) anymore, but the dimensions (HxWxD) are: 16 1/2" x 19" x 7 3/4" roughly.

[Tay]

You mean, like this?
http://www.axiontech.com/prdt.php?item=58634
http://www.axiontech.com/prdt.php?src=FG&item=47222

[Patrick_]

Yup kw, that's it (the first one) 'cept mine is black. Funny, I got it from da 'egg almost a year ago for $25 USD. :-D Thanks.

What do you guys think I should do? Go with the huge thing, cut my case (I don't mind) or get a smaller but more powerful heatercore (if that's better). And how are those fans?

[Skeen]

Originally Posted by Patrick_

I have a Dynapower Spyden case that isn't being sold (AFAIK) anymore, but the dimensions (HxWxD) are: 16 1/2" x 19" x 7 3/4" roughly.

Oh I see why you might not have the space. Lets see, could you move any hard drives up to the 5.25" area and cut out the circled area. That would be the ideal place, if it must be inside your case. Or perhaps like you said you could cut up the top and have it blow out there.

/edit: With fans I prefer to get big ol' Deltas or Tornadoes and put them on a rheostat. Then I can fine tune the fan so I have a nice balance of cfm and noise.

[Tay]

OR, if you want, you can just cut off those lower 3.5" drives, and just screw in a coulple of these:
http://www.axiontech.com/prdt.php?item=1356

[Damian]

A small heatercore should be fine. If you're running a P4 at 2.8 and no video card, it shouldn't put too much stress on it.

[voigts]

You are asking a lot of basic questions that have been asked many times over in these forums. Take a look around and do some searcning and see what others have done. Also make sure that if you haven't take a good look at the stickes.

There are places to cut costs and places not to. It would be worth it to get 100 posts so that you can buy from the classifieds. There are decent deals to be had there. Instead of buying a heatercore from dtek like you linked to, if you are somewhat handy, you can buy a dual heatercore for about $17 from Autozone, spend another $4 on fittings, and solder new ones on there cheaply. You can do this for about $25. (PM me if you are interested- I have a barely used single pass dual heatercore that I changed the fittings on and made a shroud for that I need to sell). I have that exact same case that you have in black. I like my Spyden. It is kind of small, but it was cheap and looks good. Without using a res, you should be able to mount a dual heatercore on the top, or you can mount it onto the rear like I did to save space. (I have changed tubing routing and setup completely now but this is what it looked like when I was running a dual heatercore. I have a BIXIII now, but still have it mounted on the back).




I have seen many people on these forums recommend the Mag 3 (about $40). I haven't used it, but it comes up many times over.

You can get your clearflex60 from Mcmaster.com for .68 cents a foot (for 1/2" ID 3/4" OD)-search for 5231K237 . They have other sizes there and are very reasonable on price/shipping.

A t-line works fine to bleed and fill a system. It works the easiest when you can place it toward the top of your loop on the pump inlet or outlet. I had a res and switched to t-lines to just save space, and it made my tubing routing a lot easier.

[Patrick_]

Thanks much for your answers. Yeah, I probably should have looked around more.

Don't worry, I'm not buying from DangerDen and stuff. I just linked there so it's easier to see the specs. I have it all worked out, I'm probably not going to spend more than half of the price about?

So you have a Spyden too? I think they're cool too, and a great price, though a little small.

You know, I never thought of mounting the double heatercore on the back like you have shown in the picture! I think I might do it that way rather on top (but still not sure) because 1) I don't need to put holes in my case and 2) being on top, I'd think the pump would have to work harder to reach up there...

What's the difference between a single pass and a double pass heatercore? I think I am interested... check your PMs! :-)

[voigts]

Got your PMs. A single pass just means that the water flows once through the core rather than twice (dual pass). There is a lot of debate as to which is better, but I prefer the single pass in heatercores. I do like mounting on the back as it makes the heatercore much easier to clean than if it is mounted inside of the case, and still it is easy to move the case around. A single pass also makes it easier to mount on the rear like this, whereas a dual pass might be easier to mount inside the case.

You are right in that this case is a little small, but for the price I really like the looks of it. No other cases I have seen have those lights on the front corners with a temp sensor. This case has proved remarkably adaptable for me so far.