Overheating Geforce 2

I have a Geforce 2 MX that after 10 mins playing in Direct 3D locks the system. It's got a cheap *** heat sink on it. It's not the proccessor as I've checked the core temperature for it, it's cool enough to run without any problems. Is it even possible(or worth the effort) to attach a fan/ new heat sink or anything for that matter to it.

In OpenGL it doesn't crash(but I had to return a card after it stopped working.) With a different card in it, it runs without any problems.

Any help would be great, ta

The system is
Win 98
PIII 500
256 MB RAM
Hercules 3D Prophet II MX

Sure it's possible to attach a HSF to a GF2. They make good vpu coolers, but if you can afford to lose a couple of pci slots, just stick a stock P3 cooler on there with some Artic Silver.

You could get a blue orb, or if you don´t mind to spend 25 $ you could get the Alpha vid card hsf (forgot the name). The Alpha is top of the line, but might be a little overkill for a MX.

Just about any rackmount cooler will give superior performance to your stock GPU cooler or the blue orb

The king of the GPU coolers is the Alpha pal 15u and you will lose one pci slot as its 25 mill in height including the fan ( a blue orb is 15 mill)


Designed for tight spaces such as the 1U computers
Alpha Heatsink!
Heatsink dim: 60x60x15
Copper Embedded
Delta 60x60x10mm high speed, dual ball bearing fan
21.19 CFM
31 dba
Cost $28 coolerguys.com




Another excellent solution is this and at $15 is worth taking a gander at:


-Low profile, design for EU chassis
For Intel FC-PGA / Celeron and Socket-A
to 1.1Ghz
This is the Biggest Copper Heatsink & fan
we have in stock.

-Fan dimension: 60 x 60 x 10 (mm)
-Rated Voltage: 12VDC
-Rated Speed: 4800 RPM
-Air Flow: 15.7 CFM
-Noise Level: 26 dBA
-Heatsink dimension: 64 x 63 x 15(H) (mm)
Application: Low profile, design for 1U chassis
For Intel FC-PGA / Celeron & Socket-A upto 1.1Ghz





Heres one more that will blow the blue orb away as its its big brother the Thermaltake Low Profile Orb For 1U System

Price $9.99

Application Rackmount Servers (1U…6U Servers )
-Intel Socket 370 upto 1Ghz
-Dimensions 69dia x 25 mm tall
-Clip Type TCS01 Twist-on Clip
-Fan Size 43x15mm 3-Wire
-Rated Voltage (V) 12.4 volt
-Noise Level(dBA) 26.4 dBA
-Air Volume (CFM) 12 CFM
-Rated Speed(RPM) 5000 RPM +/- 10%
-Bearing System BALL BEARING
-Interface Material DOW CORNING T-340 GREASE
-Heat Sink Material Aluminum 6063
-Fan Safety UL/CE/CSA
-Thermal Resistance Theta ja=1.15c/w




Both the rackmount orb and the AOC copper rackmount heatsink can be purchased Here

To be honest I think the Blorb would do good for your GF2MX

I have a GF2MX and I got the Blorb and oced it to 220 Core 210 Mem

As for the price it was 19.00 Canadian pretty sweet deal considering the fact you cant really go far with OCing MX compared to the other series.

Just my two cents.

Turgon said:

I have a Geforce 2 MX that after 10 mins playing in Direct 3D locks the system. It's got a cheap *** heat sink on it. It's not the proccessor as I've checked the core temperature for it, it's cool enough to run without any problems. Is it even possible(or worth the effort) to attach a fan/ new heat sink or anything for that matter to it.

In OpenGL it doesn't crash(but I had to return a card after it stopped working.) With a different card in it, it runs without any problems.

Any help would be great, ta

The system is
Win 98
PIII 500
256 MB RAM
Hercules 3D Prophet II MX

Click to expand...

My sister has this card and it runs fine at the stock 175MHz Core and 183MHz Memory. Even when running the card at 200MHz Core and 200MHz Memory, the card still ran fine.

Of course, I attached an old Pentium fan to the heatsink and glued on some heatsinks to the ram and raised the thing to 225C / 210M


OC-Master

GF2 MX's were lucky to come with even a heatsink. I had two various ones and niether came with a heatsink... Both were always ran at stock, nvidia specs.

My question is how frick'n hot is you case?

Anywho's... Any large cooler is going to be strick overkill on any GF2 MX.

If you have any airflow in the case(doubtful since you can't run and you have a heat sink on it) You should be able to "get by" with a heatsink... If many can survive without one, you should figure out why yours can't survive with one LoL!

Do a search on how to get a heatsink off, lap and apply some AS onto it. You can also invest on a 40-50mm 12v .1+ amp fan and fasten it on your sink. Nearly all video cards will have the fan power connecter on it, even if that particular company dosen't use a fan on that model.

Hope that helps some...

Forgot something...

I bought dad a TnT M64 for $10 to replace the TNT2U who's memory finally gave up the ghost last year. It's passive sink couldn't keep up with the card unless underclocked, which wasn't cutting it as he has random needs for a video card.

Being that the back of this particular card was "perfectly" flat and devoid of resistors on the back, I simply as II epoxyed the small block 486 heatsink that came stock with my old TNT to the back.

Solved the problem and a half LoL!

Ironically my video fan died on my GF3 ti200 three days ago. I didn't even realize it, but I instantly recognized the artifacts once they appeared onscreen as video memory overheating.

Burned two fingers touching the back of the core to check it's temp LoL! (Ah the advantages of an open case)

The first quick attempt was an Abit chipset fan, which was wofully not up to the challange. (Stock fan is 12V @ .14a , this was 12v @ .8a duh) Next we tried the fan off a Kyro II. 12v @ .1a this could keep up with the card underclocked and made me happy.

What did I do? I brought out the Mikita cordless drill with some small bits and drilled out enough space in the bottom of a block of brass so it could rest flush against the back of the PCB on the other side of the core.

Now before some of you cite me for being crazy!? There are two things you should know.

1) All PCB's should come with a thin protective coating to help keep from from shorting out. (you'll notice on many colored video cards they actually paint ONTOP of the card after it's finished, covering all traces)

2) The risk of shorting is slim if you're sure to have enough epoxy on the back. Yes AS epoxy is conductive. No it dosen't worry me... Pull out a multimeter and find out for yourself LoL!

I've done this on two cards now, and although it can only get rid of a fraction of the heat. If you've ever pushed hard against the back of the video card where the core is, you'll know that's enough heat to burn yourself with!

Did I mention I knocked the only two matching caps off this VisionTek card a year ago and it's never shown any stability or flickering problem? If taiwanese motherboards were only as good LoL!

*Note* Warrenties are still good despite the troubles VisionTek went through over the last year. They're mailing me a heatsink from some Radeon card they sell now...

Heh, this thread is almost 2 years old

I paid no attention LoL! Duh!

Damn! Talk about a RESURRECTION!