What kind of temperature drop would I see from switching from 1/4 to 3/8? Right now I can idle at 30, and I hit 40 on air (room temp is somewhere between 18-22c). Reading reviews, it seems that a 1/4 loop would give about the same temps as a decent air setup, so I would like to know about what should I expect when I switch to a 3/8 loop assuming the parts are decent? I don't want to spend just over 200usd for a 5c drop.
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difference from 1/4 to 3/8?
- Thread starter DickH
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2000
- Location
- Sheboygan, Wisconsin
Well you could go 1/2" with say 7/16" tubing. Your idle temp may or may not change but you laod temp will and the drop from laod to idle will be faster.
You must be running a serious heatsink and fans to get 40c on air at load. You really don't want to go with 1/4" parts as they are really more geared for looks and not the best performance. They are European type low flow setups. If you use 1/2" parts with either 1/2" or 7/16" tubing, you should see a lower idle as well as a much lower load temp. Not to mention the fact that if properly done, you can do this at much less noise by using a larger rad with slower cfm fans.
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2001
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- Corner of No and Where
My opinion on tubing size is this:
1/2" tube is great for MAX performance while still fitting completely within a case, but it can be a hassle to get the tubing run and not kinked.
3/8" tube is much easier to work with, but does remove some of the potential performance from the system. If you are not trying to get the MAXIMUM performance from the system then it can be a very good compromise because it can, with a well done setup, get temps very nearly as good as a 1/2" tube system.
1/4" tube is very easy to install in a case and can do a fine job, but the POTENTIAL cooling of a 1/4" system is much more limited. Nevertheless, it can be great for quiet, mid-range overclock systems.
I think that most of us here use either 1/2" or the 7/16" tube for our systems because we want to have the potential cooling, even if we don't always use it.
A 3/8" tubed system should be fine for most "normal people" (Though I am not sure if that statement can be used with water coolers at all.)
1/2" tube is great for MAX performance while still fitting completely within a case, but it can be a hassle to get the tubing run and not kinked.
3/8" tube is much easier to work with, but does remove some of the potential performance from the system. If you are not trying to get the MAXIMUM performance from the system then it can be a very good compromise because it can, with a well done setup, get temps very nearly as good as a 1/2" tube system.
1/4" tube is very easy to install in a case and can do a fine job, but the POTENTIAL cooling of a 1/4" system is much more limited. Nevertheless, it can be great for quiet, mid-range overclock systems.
I think that most of us here use either 1/2" or the 7/16" tube for our systems because we want to have the potential cooling, even if we don't always use it.
A 3/8" tubed system should be fine for most "normal people" (Though I am not sure if that statement can be used with water coolers at all.
)
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2004
- Location
- Hell's Kitchen, NYC
Especially water coolers reading a forum for overclockersrogerdugans said:A 3/8" tubed system should be fine for most "normal people" (Though I am not sure if that statement can be used with water coolers at all.
cripy
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- Jun 25, 2005
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- South Florida
1/2" usually gets better flow rates and kinks less than 3/8"
- Thread Starter
- #8
OK, this is what I have now. Its just a shuttle with some modifications.
And this is what I get for temps (superpi 4m for load, room temp ~20c)
Right now my goal is to make this silent. I figured I could get one 120mm fan to cool the cpu and gpu, hopefully with lower temps. Should I really go with watercooling, or should I slow down the fan and let the temps rise some? Honestly, would I actually gain from spending 200+ for watercooling my system?
And this is what I get for temps (superpi 4m for load, room temp ~20c)
Right now my goal is to make this silent. I figured I could get one 120mm fan to cool the cpu and gpu, hopefully with lower temps. Should I really go with watercooling, or should I slow down the fan and let the temps rise some? Honestly, would I actually gain from spending 200+ for watercooling my system?
- Thread Starter
- #11
Yes, I know it will be quite a task to fit everything. I have room for the radiator and fan, no problem, I can get that small swiftech pump in there, but after that, I dont know what I am going to do for the cpu (the only way I got away with it with air is because the ICE is "L" shaped) and the tubing. We have tubing from a fish tank that I believe is 3/8, I should be able to get it to cooperate in the room I would have left.
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2000
- Location
- Sheboygan, Wisconsin
Ok if I'm seeing things right, it looks as the your PSU sits over top the CPU. If this is the case good luck on finding a waterblock that will sit under the PSU. Also the case is a little to small to be going with watercooling. I believe you wish to make it an internal watercooling. So thats means you have to try and fit a CPU waterblock, a pump and a rad along with the tubing. As Voigts said you might want to look at a bigger case.
- Thread Starter
- #15
No way man, the case can not go! I have figured something out for the cpu waterblock. I think I will buy a DD TDX and make a new top that would aim the barbs straight out at an angle so it would clear the capacitors. I have ~11.5-12cm from the psu to the front of the case, this is plenty of room for a 120mm fan, and a radiator. Placement of the pump would be right behind the faceplate. It will all fit assuming the tubing will cooperate. I will do it and show you guys when I am done that it can fit.
Back on topic.
according to the shown temps I get on air, would it be worth watercooling, and what should I expect for temps?
Back on topic.
according to the shown temps I get on air, would it be worth watercooling, and what should I expect for temps?
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2004
- Location
- Hell's Kitchen, NYC
With your current temps and that case layout, I'd really consider sticking with what you've got (and if you blow out the dust you'll probably improve your temps a couple degrees). IF, and it's a big IF, you can get a water cooling system in that case doing so would be a royal PITA. You would almost have to modify components (like you mentioned with the CPU block) and doing that will take a toll on the results you'd get. You could put a lot of effort (and money) into water cooling that system and then wind up with only a 1-2°C difference, and I don't think that difference is worth the effort or cost.
My 2 cents.
My 2 cents.
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2004
There has been a few guys water cool one of those cases. It is not easy but it can be done. The biggest problem you are going to have is the CPU block and 120mm fan for a rad. Why not try one of the 80mm fans and rad http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-rad-30.html
and look over the doom case. that guy got alot of stuff in that case. http://www.mashie.org/casemods/d3_01.html
i hope that will give you a few ideas.
Lotec
and look over the doom case. that guy got alot of stuff in that case. http://www.mashie.org/casemods/d3_01.html
i hope that will give you a few ideas.
Lotec
- Thread Starter
- #18
Yes, watercooled shuttles are here and there, I have seen them, I know about mashie and his work, but I want mine all internal. I have enough room for the 120mm rad and fan internally, so that is what I will do. I have figured out what I will do for the cpu waterblock. The plan is to buy a tdx block and make a new top with the barbs aiming out sideways. I would just replace the barbs with angled barbs, but I can see that I would have a problem screwing in the second one. as long as I can get the tubing to bend the way I want it, I wont have a problem fitting everything in. If you dont believe me, I will do a 3d rendering tomorrow to show you.
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2000
- Location
- Sheboygan, Wisconsin
I wouldn't mind seeing a 3d rendering of your idea.
