UPS Question

I'm looking for one to run the rig in my sig. After a recent power outage and almost dying thinking my new LCD had gotten fried (The DVI Cable came loose), I think its time I bit the bullet and got one. I have no idea what to look for, please guide me. Cheaper is better. Needs at least 6 outlets.

I highly recommend getting a UPS that is "Line Interactive", which means it will automatically clean up the highs and LOWS of the power coming in.

Most of the cheaper ones do a good job of correcting for overvoltage but NOT Undervoltage.

I have 2 belkin 1200VA (670 watt) UPS systems that I really love.

I picked them up with a 50% off coupon from Belkins website, the shipping is high, but if you order 2 or more the shipping really comes down.

It ends up being cheaper, about $90 each with shipping vs. $120-130 on the web.

The batteries are user replaceable.

I have to go but do a search on "Belkin coupon", they might have one still available.

I've bought a UPS from Belkin using that coupon also, got this one for my parents:
http://catalog.belkin.com/IWCatProd...t_Id=&Section_Id=76&pcount=&Product_Id=171876

I have one but an older model and it's being used on the first system in my sig along with a 19" lcd. It also worked with a huge 21" monitor I had before. Don't know how long it lasts on batteries since I haven't pushed it. I programed it to shut down Windows after 3 minutes and it works good. The next one up, the 750va might work for you unless you want it on for an extended period when power goes out.

If you overclock, make sure you get one that is overkill for your system. I had some issues with my system not clocking well at all, I couldnt figure it out. The UPS I was using was rated for more than my power supply, but ratings dont mean anything. In the end it was the powersupply that was killing my OC. I upgraded to a 1000VA from a 400VA and havent had any problems since.

what kind of batteries are they?

And how can we calculate if its powerful enough? Im running a dual G5 (so 600watt PSU) 2x monitors (a 17" and a 20" Trinitron, CRTs) i freak when the power flickers...if i got one, itd just be for the mac and 1 monitor, just so i have time to save/shut down, but iim seeing on some PSU's id only get closer to 17 seconds

The batteries are Sealed lead acid so they don't leak.

The run time varies based upon the load and the rating of the batteries.

The 1200Va belkins that I have push out 670W max for about 12-15 min at MAX load. The run time will close to triple at 1/2 load.

I also have one set up for my fish tank heaters, i HAD to take out the internal batteries out and hook the unit up to 2 Optima deep cycle batteries. Now I can have 7-8 hour run time for the fish tank heaters and filters.

Hughhefner said:

I also have one set up for my fish tank heaters, i HAD to take out the internal batteries out and hook the unit up to 2 Optima deep cycle batteries. Now I can have 7-8 hour run time for the fish tank heaters and filters.

Click to expand...

Wow. Is that hard to do?

Yes and no to switch out the batteries...great answer isn't it!!

UPS models that have user replaceable batteries are easy enough to "Mod", they usually have 2 12V sealed lead acid batteries hooked in series to give out 24V. Smaller ones just use a single 12V battery, those are real easy--no big wiring to worry about, just splice some longer leads on the Red/black cables in the UPS and hook to your external battery.

Hughhefner, what kind of fish?

i mite PM you lol

/hijack

Right now not much of fish, the .99 cent Convict ciclids just killed one of my $50 adult gold severums.. Go figure!!!!!

Back to the UPS, I run a few UPS Tripp lites under the fish tank.

They are 675VA (420watt) but only take a single 12V battery so it is REAL easy to hook them up, just remove the internal battery, extend the 2 leads with some 12-14Gauge electrical wire and connect to the respective terminals on the external battery.

I recommend a "Spiral Cell" sealed battery for the best runtime and safety.

I HAD a few deep cycle marine batteries literally burn out "SWELL" from overcharging. They are cheap at walmart $65 or so but they burn out in less than 18months hooked to the trickle charger of the UPS systems.

now how does a UPS work? changable batteries, does tha tmean like people always run them during outages, or are the batteries in CONSTANT charge/drain?

The UPS only runs when the power is out, it automatically reverts back to AC line when the power comes back.

The batteries are not used unless the power fails.

They also have built in Surge protection

I am a HUGE fan of the Refurbished APC UPS's on eBay with New Batteries. I have bought 4 of these over the past few years, and all 4 were less than 1/2 of new retail (actually more like 1/3 of retail cost) and have 90-day warranties on the Unit, and a 12 Month Warranty on the Batteries! Check eBay if you are serious about saving cash, but not skimping on performance. Buyer beware - just do your homework...

As far as I understand the consumer UPS's operation, you have a main AVR circuit that can adjust for Sags/Peaks in your AC Mains voltage w/o involving the battery. Your main outlets on the UPS are usually pulling from the Main Wall Power. The battery is charged like a regular battery charger/maintainer would do, and the battery is not used often.

Once an AC power hit is detected at the UPS, the internal Battery powers up a DC-to-AC inverter, and then the voltage is stepped up via a transformer. There is a circuit that will switch from AC "Wall power" to "Inverter Generated power" that may take up to 3-5mS to switch over (not usually a problem). Then you are on Battery Power until the UPS detects the restoration of the AC Wall Power, and the UPS will switch back to Wall Power. The UPS might also switch to Battery Power in extereme voltage sags, too - but most descent UPS's can compensate for roughly 90Volts w/o using the Battery. Be warned that cheap UPS's will output an APPROXIMATED SINEWAVE while on Battery Power - not too cool for Motors, etc. Most of the good APC units will have Sinewave outs - even while on Battery Power.

"Pro" UPS units will have the "Battery Power" portion ALWAYS online. This means the AC Wall Power is stepped down to the Battery Bank's voltage, and is converted to DC (Rectified). The Battery Bank is constantly "in line", and this DC power is inverted back to clean AC power, and stepped back up to 120VAC, and off to your Network Servers (or On-Air Video Servers and Air-Clients like at my work ). This eliminates ANY "Switch Time" as the Inverter will instentaneously recieve power from the Battery Bank once the Rectifier looses it's "Wall Power" input (Zero Switch Time).

Something like that