Modding a Swiftech 6000

J-Sap · Dec 20, 2005

I was wondering if it was possible to mod my Swiftech 6000 which has 3/8" fittings with 1/2" fittings? Are the 6000 and 6002 series the same except for the connector size?

The reason behind this is I screwed up when I set up my system and ordered everything with 1/2" fittings except for my cpu block (stupid mistake) which is 3/8". I have it running fine now but I don;t like the constriction on my system when it goes to 3/8" at that one point.

The rest of my system consist of a bonneville heatercore, eheim 1250 pump, a T-line, and a maze 4 for my gpu.

bryan_d · Dec 20, 2005

Well if I were you, I would sell the 6000 and just buy the 6002. Or if you want, I do not know if the barbs are brazed or soldered but, try taking a torch to it and installing your own 1/2" barb fittings. I believe the 6002 implements a sort of jet design so the perfomance of the 6000 with the 1/2" might not match the 6002.

Good luck,
Bryan D.

J-Sap · Dec 20, 2005

If they're different designs then I'm not going to do it. I think I'm just going to go out and get block with 1/2" fittings.

Thanks for the help.

J-Sap · Dec 20, 2005

I was checking out the 6002 on Swiftech's website here and found when I found this;

"The MCW6002™ waterblock is an extreme duty liquid cooling solution for high-end microprocessors. It only differs from the MCW6000™ by the outter diameter of its inlet and outlet, which are designed to receive 1/2" ID tubing. This solutions caters to users with high flow systems."

I'm still thinking about doing this, if the barbs are welded on and not soldered would I be able to cut them off and then drill a 1/2" hole for new fittings?

Etacovda · Dec 20, 2005

The barbs are soldered.

I would use a short section of 3/8ths tubing on each barb, then slip 1/2 over that; if you use decent hose clamps (very tightly) you will have no leaks; ive done this on 3/8ths gear with success.

voigts · Dec 21, 2005

Those two fittings being 3/8" are not going to make a noticeable difference. You probably could try to cut off and tap out to screw in new fittings, but you are probably going to cause more problems than you would fix. For one, you can't open up the block to make sure that any copper shavings, debris are completely out of the block, and secondly, what if you run into a problem? Then you block is toast. You would be better off just biting the bullet and selling/returning the block and going with the 6002 if it bothers you.

tsuehpsyde · Dec 21, 2005

Sounds almost identical to my system (Eheim 1250, 6002, T-Line, and a rad+shroud+sunon). I say just return the block if you can, or just sell the block and buy the 6002 and eat the difference. The work+leak tesing+possibly flow difference just seems like more work than it's worth.

J-Sap · Dec 21, 2005

k, looks like my 6000 will return to ebay once more

Voodoo Rufus · Dec 22, 2005

Etacovda said:
The barbs are soldered.

I would use a short section of 3/8ths tubing on each barb, then slip 1/2 over that; if you use decent hose clamps (very tightly) you will have no leaks; ive done this on 3/8ths gear with success.

I would do this as well. Easy and less hassle than selling the block.

J-Sap · Dec 23, 2005

could I also solder the 1/2" tubing over the 3/8" barb? The one thing that worries me the most is leaking.

Voodoo Rufus · Dec 23, 2005

Use hose clamps on the overlapped tubing and you should not have a problem.

bryan_d · Dec 23, 2005

You should give ViperJohn a PM. He has modified 6000 or even 6002 with different barbs. Even crazier, he has modified them to be used with video cards!

Good luck,
Bryan D.

J-Sap · Dec 24, 2005

sent him a pm, thanks bryan_d

Stratcat · Dec 25, 2005

Etacovda said:
I would use a short section of 3/8ths tubing on each barb, then slip 1/2 over that; if you use decent hose clamps (very tightly) you will have no leaks; ive done this on 3/8ths gear with success.

Wow...what a fast, simple, cheap, and effective solution!

I get the feeling this is one of those "standard" tricks that I don't know yet, 'cuz of my relatively short time on water.

But a great idea, irrespectively, IMHO.

Strat

Froggy · Dec 27, 2005

A 1/2" 6--2 has a stepped down nozzle in it to provide jet pressure. It is basically the smae as using a 3/8" block. I say leave it alone!

J-Sap · Dec 27, 2005

I can;t leave my system with the 6000 and have the rest of it at 1/2", the converter that switches my tubing from 3/8" to 1/2" makes it tough for me to fit everything in my case properly without kinking the hoses. This is something that I have to do and after getting a pm back from ViperJohn the best thing to do is to just go out and get a new block. To avoid this problem again I might get a DangerDen TDX or a Swiftech 6002.

Bugsmasher · Dec 27, 2005

The 6002 series is going for between $32 and $34 at Jab-tech currently. Not a bad price for a decent block.

I would also look into the Apogee for not much more. I think someone had a $10 off coupon which netted it out around $40...unfortunately I dont remember who it was that was offering the $10 off. It may be a dead deal by now but worth looking into.

Senater_Cache · Dec 27, 2005

Both the 6000 and 6002 are the same design-wise (ignoring the barb-size), except the inlet barb on the 6002 is tapered.

J-Sap · Dec 29, 2005

Well I got a new 6002 for $22 shipped on ebay. Should be in next Monday. I'll post pics once I get it all set up.

Modding a Swiftech 6000

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