New setup :( damnit

Yesterday my new Stomr rev2 WB, BIX GX2 220, and 1/2" clearflex tubing with 1/2" t-line derllin fillport arrived.

I figured it wouldnt take to long to setup get working, i had a 3 hr window to work in, but i got about half way.

I cleaned both new block and Rad with vinegar, shook vigourously emptied and did it a few times, i thought i got all the crap out of it.

so i emptied my loop, pulled it all out, then went to install new gear. But ran into a bunch of problems. THe BIX GX2 has barbs much closer together then the MCP220 rad, so i had to recut the feed holes into my top acrylic, now it looks ghetto and there are two set of holes, bah!

Secondly these BIX's have strange threading on the fan holes, not one of my massive collection of long bolts of computer screw fit it, so the mounting is held in place by gravity to the case, but attaching fans is near impossible, and i still havn't figured how to do this yet.... anyone?

after i got everything attached, cept for fans, i filled loop with a very long t-line (cut to length after fill) hoping gravity would force the fluid into the loop, it didnt of course, so filling took me like a full HR, had to switch on second PSU for pump about 10 times for a second before i could leave it running

T-line, are a ***** to use compared to a RES like my previous microres, but on the bright side, i now have all my drive bays back, hooray the miscrores took up three 5.25 bays.


Laslty, the whole loop frizzed and bubbled up. It looked like the foam from a washing machine, the t-line is absolutly full of it, and theres still a fair few bubbles and white fizz crap in the loop, which is ever so slowly working its way into t-line.

I dont know where all the gunk or whatever caused it to fizz up came from, only thing i neglected to rinse with vinegar was the dam tubing, i was in a rush and forgot.



Ok so my questions are.

1. should i just let it run with fizz in it and replace t-line tubing where most of it collected. OR should i ditch the current fluid, im worried cooling capacitty and gunk build up now with the current lot of fluid, im out of the swiftech green stuff so i cant make any more and would have to run distilled water till i got more.

2. how on earth do people fill loops with short t-lines, no amount of twisting turning case was keeping water anywhere but the very bottom of loop?


3. Bix gx2's suck for bleeding and getting the fluid out, it takes like 5 minutes to fully empty one.

4. is there a way to make sure the RAD is full, and remove the dam bubbles from loop, it is taking far to long atm?

It helps if your pump is at the bottom of the case.

Sounds like you don't have your T-line in the right spot if you're not able to prime the pump continuously.

Filling and bleeding is faster with pure distilled water. Introduce additives later.

my set up is

t-line -> pump -> block -> rad -> t-line

t-line is directly before pump inlet, i mean its seperated by about .5cm between t-line nozzle and pump inlet nozzle.

Pump is at bottom of case, and t-line is directly in front of it, which is fed by rad, rad is at the very top of case...

according to all guides i shouldn't have had that much trouble filling it this way, especially with a really long temporary t-line.

What you should have done is:

1. Pour water down length of T-line so that it fills up entirely.
2. Tilt case until water goes into pump.
3. Turn on the pump 1-2 seconds at a time until the T-line is almost drained.
4. Repeat.

Ya was doing that, but the 655 pump your not supposed to run dry or half wet, so only about a 1/5th of t-line was ever getting sucked down into pump, hence why it was taking so long.

eventually i just said screw it and let it drain t-line then switch off, but pump was making terrible noises running half wet. hope i didnt damage it.

Phrenetical said:

Ok so my questions are.

1. should i just let it run with fizz in it and replace t-line tubing where most of it collected. OR should i ditch the current fluid, im worried cooling capacitty and gunk build up now with the current lot of fluid, im out of the swiftech green stuff so i cant make any more and would have to run distilled water till i got more.

Click to expand...

It isn't gunk, it is just air the the pump injects into the system. Let it run for a while it will be fine. May take up to a day to get rid of it.

2. how on earth do people fill loops with short t-lines, no amount of twisting turning case was keeping water anywhere but the very bottom of loop?

Click to expand...

It isn't that hard. I like to switch my pump on and off. Once you get fluid to the high point in the loop it is easy from there.

3. Bix gx2's suck for bleeding and getting the fluid out, it takes like 5 minutes to fully empty one.

Click to expand...

Not a question...

4. is there a way to make sure the RAD is full, and remove the dam bubbles from loop, it is taking far to long atm?

Click to expand...

It will take a day to get all the "fizz" out with a T line! Just let it run and it will bleed.


*TIP* When filling with an MCP655 put it on it's lowest setting!

hmmm i emptied and filled the loop again, and the fizz was minimal, the fizz and almost all bubbles are out of the system after a good hr of tipping and turning, what a pain in the ***.

Anyway at least now Im set up with the best WC'n parts that would fit in my case.

I still havnt figured a way to actually screw the fans to the RAD, atm im just using long bolts which hold them in place but you cant actually tighten or screw in. BIX's must use a different thread on the fan mounts...

the 1/2" tubing looks good in case, i also managed to keep it out of the way of the intake fans this time, and now i have my three top drive bays back because the swiftech res is gone, spose thats worth dealing with a t-line...

take some photo's on weekend for you all

I got the rig up and running also, no issues, temps are few degrees lower at load, but like i said i dont trust speedfan temp monitor, or many of the temp monitors, the good thing is the rad is cold to the touch even at max load, where as the MCP220 would be warm to the touch.

so i reckon temps are a fair bit better and it will definently handle a Kentsfield when the time comes.

You could always use three zipties to hook the fan on.

tried that, all the zip ties i got are to thick to fit through radiator fan holes.

its looking like a ghetto wire job atm, or go hunting for new bolts at the local hardware store.