Need Help Cleaning my blocks

Ok so I am running a Black Ice 2, a dd pump, a maze 4 GPU block, and a danger den TDX block. I flushed out my system and there was blue/white stuff in the watter. I have taken everything apart and soaked it in white distilled viniger, (I filled the radiator as well). Most of the gunk came off the copper parts and as far as I can tell out of the radiator after soaking for 6 hours, rinsing with hot water and repeating 3 times. However the black top of my maze 4 still has all kinds of blue and white crude that i can't get out. Also my copper parts and parts are fairly black I believe from oxidation, which I plan to clean with ketchup, but I still don't know what to do about the black part of the maze 4, please help

ok I just used ketchup to clean the copper and a lot of the black is gone on the copper pieces but I can't quite get all of it. I re flushed the radiator with vinager, this time I added salt, and a lot of white stuff with a hint of blue, came out after about 20 min (I didn't know if the salt would do damage to anything). I cleaned it out with water until it was clear. I started to soak everything else in vinager with some salt and I think the copper started to flake off the blocks so I cleaned everything and now it is all just sitting out. The black part of the maze 4 block still has a lot of white junk and a little blue, both on top mostly and in the holes

I am not soaking everything except the radiator in scope.

How does tomato sauce work is it acidic?

I use dish washing soap, and I usually soak it a bit works fine.

Scope isn't going to do much but give it minty fresh breath.
White (clear) vinegar with salt dissolved in it is probably your best bet (it's what I use), and I've heard that lemon juice works well on copper too.
Just make sure to rinse like mad after soaking because you don't want any acidity remaining in your loop while in use long-term.

Is that maze4 top metal? If so, you saved money on the wrong thing. Aluminum doesn't play nicely with copper parts no matter what the salesman says about their anodizing, period.
If you gotta run it for now, then add at least 10% antifreeze to your loop to at least keep the corrosion at bay until you can get a replacement. Scotchbrite abrasive pads can clean that white-ish gook off the top, but it's gonna need replacing.

@Mycobacteria, Yes Ketchup will work nicely to clean copper. It contains vinegar and salt, and gets an extra boost from the acids in tomatoes. Just don't use it in things you can't open to clean. I had a heck of a time getting it all out of my mcw6000. Radiators (internal cleaning) are off limits too.

the material of the top is dayolyn, it is not a metal I don't think, seems almost like a hard plastic. I used the scope becasue it has alcohol and I read that works. The copper i can take care of but the dayolyn (sp) is more porus and the junk is stuck in there

Oh, then cool beans.
Dalryn can be scrubbed clean with a scotchbrite pad or SOS pad for whatever the vinegar doesn't remove.
If you need to use something with more kick to it, then remove the metal barbs from the top and use something like "the Works", a limescale cleaner that will dissolve alot of different things, but won't harm the plastic. Just make sure to do this in the kitchen sink and rinse your hands and anything else it touches very well with water.
And you don't need to use much, just enough to wet it down.
Also do not mix chemicals with this stuff. Rinse all the vinegar away before using the works. And don't use brushes to aid the scrubbing, it will splatter the acid all over.

Do Not soak anything metal in cleaners like this. It will dissolve them or etch a pattern into them at the least.

What did you use in your water to cause all this havoc?

Diggrr said:

Scope isn't going to do much but give it minty fresh breath.
White (clear) vinegar with salt dissolved in it is probably your best bet (it's what I use), and I've heard that lemon juice works well on copper too.
Just make sure to rinse like mad after soaking because you don't want any acidity remaining in your loop while in use long-term.

Is that maze4 top metal? If so, you saved money on the wrong thing. Aluminum doesn't play nicely with copper parts no matter what the salesman says about their anodizing, period.
If you gotta run it for now, then add at least 10% antifreeze to your loop to at least keep the corrosion at bay until you can get a replacement. Scotchbrite abrasive pads can clean that white-ish gook off the top, but it's gonna need replacing.

@Mycobacteria, Yes Ketchup will work nicely to clean copper. It contains vinegar and salt, and gets an extra boost from the acids in tomatoes. Just don't use it in things you can't open to clean. I had a heck of a time getting it all out of my mcw6000. Radiators (internal cleaning) are off limits too.

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I've been running Pentosin antifreeze in my loop for many months now and had 0 corrosion when I took apart my loop. I've got a Maze 4 acetal top, Swiftech Storm rev2, and Alphacool reservoir with aluminum top and bottom caps on it. it shouldn't be a problem as long as he runs with a bit of anti-freeze in his loop.

the only thing I think i put in was isoprobaly alcohol and water wetter, but I did use distilled water. So I am an idiot and I had the babrs soaking in the salt viniger with everything else and they rusted so now I need to remove that. I will try the works in the daryln. I still have some black in my copper parts after days of soaking and a good ketchup bath, is this going to cause a problem for me?. So using the sos pads isn't goingot ruin my block?

Use the pad on the plastic top. You can use it on the copper too if the blackening really bothers you, but it's not going to impede the temperature transfer of the copper to the water as long as it's just tarnish and not some thicker coating.
I wouldn't recomend using it on the bottom side of the block unless you can do it super duper lightly to avoid scratching it too much. Maybe an old worn pad would serve you best here, the abrasive tends to not scratch so much then.

I'm not a big fan of water wetter, though some here use it.
I'd use about 3-5% antifreeze and distilled water with a splash of iodine to keep the algae away.
I use surgical Betadine in my loop that I got from the hospital.

It might be the mixture of water wetter and alcohol that caused the problems you have now...dunno. I abandoned hope for it years ago between the horrendous smell and separated oil slick it leaves behind in some conditions.

And if the barbs actually rusted, it's best to be rid of them things now. Get some polypropylene replacements from DangerDen. They're far superior in my opinion, and are resistant to any chemicals you could use. A silicone RTV sealant is best for sealing the threads on plastic-to-plastic fittings.
Besides my homemade copper barbs, I only use the poly ones.