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NB cooling

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M

myndlessdayz

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Joined
Dec 29, 2004
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I maybe over reacting on this. But I was using PC Probe the other day and while I was playing Dark Messiah an alarm goes off saying my MB temp is at 45C and climbing! Worried I alt-tabbed back in game to save game and my rig went into an emergency shut off. I had to drop my OC (in sig) back down to 2.4ghz to keep it from doing this and that makes me :cry:

So I figure on getting a NB block but will that cause problems in temps and flow?
I plan on having 2 separate loops with in a month or 2 (for a project system) and it will probably be kept in the same loop as the CPU. Also, if its possible, I'll probably add a block to the SB for the e-peen factor :beer: .
 
The temps don't seem excessive to me either but when the rig goes for an emergency shut off I suppose it is :confused:

I'm putting a second WC loop for a project I plan on doing and with the D5 just running a CPU and the NB I don't think that it will cause too much restriction (I hope not anyway).
 
If you want a waterblock for the NB I would look into the MCW30 as there is very little resistance in it and it does a good job. I am wondering though whether there was not some other factor that caused it to do an emergency shut off.

~jtjuska
 
I thought think that it might be an in-equalization in air flow. With only 2 fans as an exhaust (120 in rear and a 92 on top) and 3 for intake (4 120s in front on BIX II rad push/pull and a big 25cm I think in on side) it is a possibility.

I hope it isn't another reason for it to auto shut off besides the NB getting "too hot" but it does always shut of soon after I have PC Probe's threshold monitor going off.

I downcloked back to the A8N32's Auto ovrerclock x 10 and I didn't have a problem with it all last night. This weekend I'll look deeper into it if I don't get side tracked into gaming or something.
 
myndlessdayz said:
but it does always shut of soon after I have PC Probe's threshold monitor going off.
Click to expand...
Could it be PC Probe doing the emergency shutdown?
It's a good idea to have a software emergency shutdown, just set the threshold a little higher.
 
No software shutdown. I have to manually turn on PC Probe and there are times when I've not had it on and rig would just shut off or I would have it on and the alarm will go on forever until I closed Probe.

Since the thread has been brought back from the depths of the WC Forums I'll update:

Ordered a MCW30 for my NB a few days ago and should be getting it soon. The Barbs are ¼" NPSM thread I suppose these EK Barbs fit?

Fittings compatibility note:

G ¼, or BSPP, fittings will fit, but may not seal; each must be checked prior to assuming that it will not leak just because they fit together.
Click to expand...

Swifty site says they might be able to but just wondering if anyone has tried?

Also would the SB need to be cooled as I assume its also under the stock heatpipe?
 
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Ah ok jus a shot inna dark.
Yup those barbs will fit, I ordered my DD HiFlos from Petras.
It's a cool wee li'l block! you'll be pleased with it. did I mention that it's wee? :)
Be careful that you thread the EK or DD barbs into the MCW30 "carefully" I inadvertantly stripped one of the threads on my block. Under examination.. one of the six barbs I ordered had a shorter thread area than the others, when there's barely a couple of threads to work with to start! [edit] with the o-ring on
Luckily the Plastic barb that came with.. have mucho thread area, and worked great!

My P5B had a heatpipe on the NB which i removed for the MCW30, my SB doesn't get that hot.. small stock copper sink on it. I just put a small fan near it.
 
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The A8N32 sli dlx board has the heat pipe running from the mosfet down to the sn and nb how do you plan to cool the rest. Just cut the heat pipe and cool the one bridge or what? mine hits 44c sometimes but never higher. Make sure you have good air flow throughout the case. Also i tried to mount a small 80mm fan blowing over the NB and the MB temps dropped about 6c so you can also do that, mount the fan on the side of the case and funnel to air over the NB.
 



My MB also has heat pipes connecting the NB to the moffsets... what you do is you cut the heat pipe off and then install your water block.
Does the pic appear bigger??

Just incase you were wondering what exactly I cut... this is a pic of the MB before with the stock heat pipes.


 
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There really wouldnt be any point in you having two loops on there but a northbridge loop will certainly do you wonders. just put a small active cooler on the southbridge and some ramsinks on the mosfets when you pull the HP and you will be fine.
I watercooled my NF4SLI and the temps are sitting aournd 33 for all parts of my system. they did go up, but if you have a big rad and lots of pump power, its too small to notice.
presently im sitting at 32cpu, 33 chipset and 38 gpu. all on a bip3.
but do make sure to get the extra stuff for those chips that the heatpipe takes care of.
 
did you just crimp the heatpipes closed? and another thing, does anybody know why they always connect the mosfets and NB via heatpipes? both get crazy hot so the heat doesn't really go anywhere. it just stays in the same place.
 
The idea is that you would be using a good size air cooler which would blow air over the heatsinks on the mosfet side, which would create the temp difference heatpipes need.
 
Okay, now I C. You should use the aux fans that asus sells, you might of gotten one with the board, that goes over the mosfet heat sinks and blow air over them. Looks clean.
 
I used to cool my NB with an Intel HSF as seen in the pic, however I found that the NB was still too hot...



The NB on this MB really cooks and I would recomend water for the NB to for the followng reasons:

1 the water block for a NB is only 10 bucks more than some of the aftermarket NB heat sinks.

2 you can generally get at least 10-20 mhz more on the FSB

3 it really does not restrict the flow of water that much.

I used a thermal epoxy to glue my intel HSF onto the NB and SB. The epoxy is called alderite and is stable to 75 degrees C, I have never had any problems with it (except getting the stuff off) and it conducts heat really well because when I did touch the heat sinks they were really really hot.
 
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One possibility for there being no liquid could be that it was a low quality crimp and the fluid just evaporated out... or they were just cheap-skates.

A cheap way of cooling the NB would be to make a cheap, simple, copper cap block with a plexi hold down.
 
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I doubt there is any liquid in the heat pipes to begin with. Whats the point if you can't re-fill the pipe. Also if there was liquid in the pipe and the crimps were good liquid would evap anyways. Or the pipe would have to much pressure after time and pop. The heat pipes are hollow to begin with, unless the liquid can be circulated. through the heat pipes, then thats a totally different situation.
 
Thats why im reluctant to move to Asus Striker Extreme because I have douts about the heat pipes on it.

What ever you do to the NB requires some work.... you cant stick what ever you want on top of the NB because it has stock fins. (see original MB pic)

I'm waiting for DFI to release their version of a 680i, it has no heat pipes. So it makes it easy for me to install water on the NB.
 
Yeah i know. Well both my sb and nb have an asus label on them, I was just planning on throwing a small heatsink with a fan in it to cool it off with out having to jump to water, But did you try to put a small fan on the NB before throwing that big HS on it? looks like you could of done that instead. That why i want to put HS on mine and see the diff in temps.
 
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