mach2 died...new danfoss...HELP!!!!!!!!

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I.R.wes

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• Apr 8, 2007

• #1

Good day all,
Its been a while since i have posted. My mach 2 i bought used has worked great for almost 2 years made a clank noise and stopped.I purchased a danfoss nf11fx to replace the nf9fx.A friend that works on semi fridge trailers swapped the units for me and it fired up 2 for a few seconds (enough to make frost on the evap) and now it tries to start but blows the fuse right before the third attempt. So basically it tries to start,shuts off,tries to start but shuts off,then blows the fuse. Even when not plugged into the pc motherboard it just turns on and off a few times then blows the fuse.I know when he swapped the compressors he used all the same components, and all at the same length.As I am new to phase can anyone help.It seems stupid to go buy a new unit or make a new one when i have this so close.

 

Vento1

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• Apr 8, 2007

• #2

I think it may be your controller card i had to replace mine about 4 months ago the unit would not power up it would try and then just switch off luckily i had fitted an lcd display and could read the messages. I just remembered there are three led's at the back when you switch the unit on they can be used to diagnose errors.

 

Tyranos

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• Apr 8, 2007

• #3

Where did you pick up a controller at?

 

OP

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I.R.wes

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• Apr 8, 2007

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• #4

So you dont think it could be anything wrong with too much or too little gas or maybe cap tube length ect.I should buy a new temp control like G-Froster Xe-2.0 Phase Controller.

 

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XeonStrikeForce

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• Apr 9, 2007

• #5

Sounds like a plugged cap tube to me.

 

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• Apr 9, 2007

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• #6

so i would fix that how exactly?

 

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XeonStrikeForce

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• Apr 9, 2007

• #7

either get some one to chase it or replace it, but first get them to check to see the system is free flowing and no plugs. Failing that check the relays contacts to ensure a low impedance circuit, in short go through each level of the system to verify it.

 

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• Apr 9, 2007

• Thread Starter
• #8

alright....thanks guys....

 

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I.R.wes

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• Apr 11, 2007

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• #9

Couldn't I just bypass the control board by putting a switch(and fuse) to turn on the prommie.That would answer the question of a bad board,relay contacts ect.

 

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XeonStrikeForce

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• Apr 11, 2007

• #10

Ya to test if it is electrical control issue, we do that to test whether it is a control system or vapour system error.

Bypass the control block, if it blows still then you will know that it is some thing inside the compression system.

Good luck!

 

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• Apr 12, 2007

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• #11

i hate to be a newbie but do you have a wiring diagram for that?

 

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XeonStrikeForce

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• Apr 12, 2007

• #12

I don't but some should!?

 

greenmaji

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• Apr 12, 2007

• #13

general diagram http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=53580&stc=1&d=1165362110

but what your really wanting to do is defeat the controller if Im understanding the situation correctly.
the hot should be swiched (and could be rewired to a nomal on/off swich) at the controller.

 

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I.R.wes

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• Apr 12, 2007

• Thread Starter
• #14

yes Green I want to take the control board out of the circuit and just use the switch to supply power to the compressor.

 

greenmaji

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• Apr 12, 2007

• #15

a standard swich should come with the required info on how to wire it up.. you would just need to be able to identify -/+/& ground

 

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• Apr 12, 2007

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• #16

Its getto time...I had a few extra power cords around....i'm just going strip it back to put a fuse on the = a fuse on the - tie the greens and just plug it into the wall for a second.All the switch would do is connect the hot lead and this isnt perm anyway i just want to see if the boards bad. if it is i'll get a g frost and install it.

 

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• Apr 12, 2007

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• #17

test concluded!!!!!!!!!compressor works only a few seconds and i have frost!

 

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• Apr 12, 2007

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• #18

no blown fuses.....that narrows it down to the control board...mostly. I still need to know how much of what gas to fill the nf11fx with for safe usage.

 

greenmaji

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• Apr 12, 2007

• #19

Isn't it already charged?

 

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I.R.wes

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• Apr 12, 2007

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• #20

yes kinda...my buddy (a refridge semi trailer mechanic) swapped out the nf9fx with the nf11fx then charged with 402a but we were not sure how much to put in.The amount he took out of the nf9 is was he put into th nf11. Plus the fact that the 9 was charged with 404a not 402a.I just want it to run right.