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My Bong thread

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Joined
Jul 26, 2004
Ok so this weekend ( if I have enough time ) I plan on trying to build a bong .
Last night I got a 4'' wyee and 3' of 4'' pcv and some pcv glue.

I have some questions for ppl that have built and used Bongs .

Does the top (where the Shower head is ) have to be air tight ?
What have you found is the best type of shower head ?
Did you find any gain from haveing a Large rez @ the bottom ? Did the large rez only help becuase it made it so you didnt have to add water as much or did it lower your temps as well ?

Any other hints that ppl can think of =)
 
no the top should not be air tight. The physical operation of a bong is air gets blown up and out and water goes down.

I personally always just bought the cheap plastic shower heads at ace becuase I didn't see much more than about a degree of difference VS using a more expensive one.

There is really no difference in temps with a large amount of water VS a small amount of water once you reach equilibrium.
 
True true and true.

I used a $5 dollar "chrome" plastic showerhead from Meijers.
The more expensive ones are nice and all, but you'll have to deal with corrosion and calcium buildup in them sooner or later if you use tap water (and you most likely will).
I also didn't flinch one bit when drilling out the flow restrictor (which most every one has, whether you see it or not) or when plugging holes to match my pump's flowrate. I don't think that would be that easily done with a $40 one.

Temps don't change at all for the better with a large res or a small one. Actually in my large 2 1/2 gallon one, temps were no different when it was full or close to sucking air into the pump.
It's the evaporation that does all the cooling, not the ammount of water you have standing by.
The distance between the wye pipe and the outlet remains constant in a standard design pvc bong, so there's no increase in cooling with a differing reserve of water.

However, it is WAY groovy to be able to skip the filling chore once in a while after a long day at work. :thup:
 
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I've never run a bong, but it occurred to me the other day that the problems of mineral build up from using tap water could be slowed down if you flush and refill the system daily. If you just keep adding water, all the minerals stay in your system and the water keeps getting harder and calcium gets deposited faster and faster, but if you flush out the hardened water every day and refill with fresh water, you dump some of the minerals while they're still in solution. And the bigger the res, the more this is going to help because the water won't get as hard between flushes.

Of course, filtering the water you add with one of those filters they sell for spot free car washes would probably work even better, but it would be more expensive.
 
So I got most of the work done this weekend but I had a problem of priming my pump I think I need a submersible pump to make the project easyer .
 
pardon my ignorance, but i only know the other definition of "bong"... would anyone care to explain what's going on here? :) just curious...
 
striker85 said:
But a filter should last for some time. Like, one for water fountains or something. That's not a bad idea...
A fountain filter will sift out leaves and bugs and whatnot, but I doubt it would get the minerals. For that, you need a deionizing filter. The cheap ones they sell for washing cars probably don't purify the water enough to stop it from causing a short, but they ought to reduce calcium deposits dramatically. That's what they're designed to do, after all. These filters are too restrictive to run inline, but unless you've got a sump full of limestone gravel, filtering the water before you add it should be enough.
 
IT has been put on the back burner for a bit I have Family coming out to vist so I cant buy a new pump right now =(
 
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