[Hazaro]

Well, hello OCForums. I got my new rig parts and am interested in OC my new rig.

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/2...inusramon4.jpg
Along with G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16820231098

Mobo: P5B
CPU: C2D E6600
RAM: G.Skill DDR2 800Mhz (5-5-5-15)

1. I am looking for the amount of OC I can experiment with my stock cooler for now.
2. How multiplier effects the stability of an OC. e.g. (I heard 8x400 is more stable than 9x400. What about average stability of 9x355 vs. 8x400 vs. 7x457? What exactly does the multiplier do?

Rig is 20% built in the kitchen.

[ancalime]

You can overclock with your stock cooler till the point where the temperatures are just too high. Download Core Temp .95 and just raise the FSB step by step (and Vcore when needed) testing for stability and checking temperatures each time. Once the temperatures hit the 60s, I would back off and wait to get some aftermarket cooling.

The multiplier simply multiplies your FSB to result in the end clock of your CPU. 400 x 8 would be more easy to stabilize than 400 x 9 because it is a lower clock (3.2GHz vs 3.6GHz). Generally, you want your OC to result in a high FSB and as low of a multiplier as possible. This is because a higher FSB would result in higher RAM speeds. You must check for stability though when going for high FSBs, and add voltage when necessary. Don't go overboard though!

[Hazaro]

Ordered one of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835118223

ZALMAN CNPS9500 LED 92mm 2 Ball Cooling Fan with Heatsink - Retail

Idling at 40-44C and running ORTHOS after 3 minutes hit 60C. Hopefully this will cool it down a bit. The 3 pin fan connector will work with my 4 pin one correct?

Will raising the FSB, without touching the voltage change temperature?

[Hazaro]

Wow, I read through everything again so I'll post up a pic.

Running at 1.6Ghz, it does this when nothing is running, as soon as I do anything it jumps back up to 2.4Ghz.

[url]http://img250.imageshack.us/img250/5609/idle16ghzwhy22ti9.jpg

Idle:http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/4...emptestnk8.jpg

Stressed: http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/2...emptestwf7.jpg

[xtreme_ego]

its speed step or eist. turn them both off in bios

[Hazaro]

For P5B latest BIOS it's C1E for my E6600 apparently, am going to check it now.
http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/9738/zfixedxl1.jpg
Quick fix

[Hazaro]

Ok, so I've made some real progress here
Running at 3.0 Ghz stable currently at 90 minutes of ORTHOS, but going to let it run overnight. OC'd my 7900GS from 500/690 to 580/840.
Going to bump multi down to 8, then see if I can get a 8x400 to net me 3.2Ghz, hell maybe even 3.6

[9x333=3 Ghz @ [50/50] TAT and CoreTemp, even speedfan ]
Under 100% load of course

[hUMANbEATbOX]

if you've got a real nice cpu, you MIGHT be able to do 3.2ghz with the stock cooler and stock volts.

most will not however. but you are doing great so far, keep pushing, see what you can get.

oh, and order an aftermarket cooler. you can get a decent one for $35 or less, and you may find yourself at 3.4-3.6ghz.

[Hazaro]

Points at sig*
Stock cooler was matching up to the Zalman [Freak cooler?]

Trying to find out if I did anything wrong here: linky

1.360 V at the moment running 333x9 right now.

[hUMANbEATbOX]

well, zalman heatsinks aren't really stellar performers to start with..

but, it should be better than stock. i couldn't tell from that thread if you actually did remount the cooler, reapplying the thermal grease. it sounds to me like you may have used too much, or messed up the mount with the credit card. these heatsinks have enough pressure once mounted where you don't actually have to spread the grease (in my experience). what i do is put a small pea sized glop in the middle (where the cores are) and mount the sink. the "break in" period of as5 will give it time to seep and cover the whole heatspreader.

of course, this assumes that your cpu's heatspread is level. you could try checking how flat it is by removing it and completely cleaning it, then taking a straight edge (like a good ruler) and holding it on the heatspreader while shining a light behind it. if you see light in between the heatspreader and the ruler, then you have a concave heatspreader. if it is really concave, then lapping would probably improve things for you.

[Hazaro]

Hmm, I read some review on NE that said that you might have gotten a concave spreader, however this was one of my many things I was paranoid about when sticking everything together and I looked at it for at least 2 minutes trying to find any defect in it. Seemed flat to me, had an undistorted reflection :\
I'll give it another 3 days, but taking everything out again would really be a huge pain. I think I might take out the cooler and do the ketchup on glass test. No use with hotdogs
50/50 100% load isn't bad at 3.0Ghz afterall is it?

edit* Pictures

Link from an article from 2005, bless the internet.
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/200..._cooler/2.html
I hope when I open mine up it doesn't look like that, or maybe I want it to because it will be a quick fix. Blah. Can I RMA it even if I've used it? It'll look brand new after I clean that gunk off it

**and it doesn't rock side to side when I set it down on the floor and desk multiple times, so comes down to a load of AS5 then? Might open up my case tomorrow, always have my awesome stock cooler to fall back on :P

[Stratcat]

^^^

Wow!

Just checked out your link with the 9500 with the bad base...heh...AFTER I just posted I never saw a bad base on over 1/2 dozen Zalman's I used!

Well, that site was dated August '05 and was an early first run batch, so hopefully the problem's been corrected. Anyway, I posted the "razor blade" test in the other thread....just use a razor blade to determine flatness of your IHS and the HSF base. It works decently well...I can even see my Intel IHS's are occasionally very slightly convex on P4's!

I'm the paranoid type....so I always check both before assembly.

~ Strat ~