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E6700 on Water Question

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treatmentx

treatmentx

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Joined
Aug 29, 2006
CPU : 3.4GHZ E6700 RevB2
Voltage : Auto in BIOS of 1.325v
MotherB : ASUS P5NE-32 SLI
RAM : OCZ 2GB DDR2-900 PC2-7200, at 2.19v auto, 44
Cooling : Apogee H20 Kit, AS5
Temps : Idle 47C/47C, Load 59C/60C, in June Summer evening ambient 30C

My questions are

1) Good? Bad? Average? Seems a bit average to me.
2) Can withstand more heat, am I right? But why does Orthos crash (Small FFT)
3) Best way to OC at this point would be? Is there a way to manually set Multiplier?
4) Kind of odd, but I opened up PC Probe II from ASUS, DMI info, under Processor Information, it shows Max speed of 3800MHZ ???
 
treatmentx said:
CPU : 3.4GHZ E6700 RevB2
Voltage : Auto in BIOS of 1.325v
MotherB : ASUS P5NE-32 SLI
RAM : OCZ 2GB DDR2-900 PC2-7200, at 2.19v auto, 44
Cooling : Apogee H20 Kit, AS5
Temps : Idle 47C/47C, Load 59C/60C, in June Summer evening ambient 30C

My questions are

1) Good? Bad? Average? Seems a bit average to me.
2) Can withstand more heat, am I right? But why does Orthos crash (Small FFT)
3) Best way to OC at this point would be? Is there a way to manually set Multiplier?
4) Kind of odd, but I opened up PC Probe II from ASUS, DMI info, under Processor Information, it shows Max speed of 3800MHZ ???
Click to expand...

I guess the overclock is good for stock voltage, but it isn't good if it isn't stable. If you're failing orthos, then it's time to up the v-core. I'm not sure if your watercooling kit can hold any more heatload unless you have cooler ambients. You can up the vcore but try to keep the load temps under 65c if possible. I'm not sure if you can manually set the multiplyer with the P5N, but the only way to go is down (9x, 8x, 7x, etc). If you're hitting 340FSB, I don't think you can go much higher with the P5N (just a thought, doesn't seem like a high FSB Mobo) I'm not sure why it's saying 3800mhz.
 
xTrEmEoVrClOcKr said:
I guess the overclock is good for stock voltage, but it isn't good if it isn't stable. If you're failing orthos, then it's time to up the v-core. I'm not sure if your watercooling kit can hold any more heatload unless you have cooler ambients. You can up the vcore but try to keep the load temps under 65c if possible. I'm not sure if you can manually set the multiplyer with the P5N, but the only way to go is down (9x, 8x, 7x, etc). If you're hitting 340FSB, I don't think you can go much higher with the P5N (just a thought, doesn't seem like a high FSB Mobo) I'm not sure why it's saying 3800mhz.
Click to expand...

Frustrated last night, but I woke up and checked again. Ambience of 28C, Core temp 45C/46C... I'll keep messing with the vcore.

At one point in time, I was up in the 3.8GHZ range when I upped the vcore to 1.5, but failed ortho's in seconds and recently I've been getting sudden death. I figured it's the PSU and waiting for a new PSU to come in.

But to make sure I understand, are you saying to overclock at this point is to up the vcore first, then try bumping the FSB again, or are you saying lower the multiplier first, and then FSB? Which is the best step first?
 
Increase the vcore by the smallest amount possible to get stable at a particular FSB speed. You originally mention 1.325V at ~340 FSB, but unstable. Boost the VCore until you are stable at 340 FSB. Once you are stable at 340, then incrementally increase your FSB by 2-5 mhz at a time, until orthos crashes. Rinse and repeat. Dont bother lowering your multi. Kinda defeats the purpose of overclocking the CPU. . .
 
icantfindone said:
Increase the vcore by the smallest amount possible to get stable at a particular FSB speed. You originally mention 1.325V at ~340 FSB, but unstable. Boost the VCore until you are stable at 340 FSB. Once you are stable at 340, then incrementally increase your FSB by 2-5 mhz at a time, until orthos crashes. Rinse and repeat. Dont bother lowering your multi. Kinda defeats the purpose of overclocking the CPU. . .
Click to expand...

I like the instuctions,"rinse and repeat". Lowering the multi doesn't defeat the purpose of overclocking, although it may defeat the purpose of buying a 6700 over a 6600. You can use it as a troubleshooting tool to see if you are CPU limited or FSB.

What size rad are you using?
 
killermiller said:
I like the instuctions,"rinse and repeat". Lowering the multi doesn't defeat the purpose of overclocking, although it may defeat the purpose of buying a 6700 over a 6600. You can use it as a troubleshooting tool to see if you are CPU limited or FSB.

What size rad are you using?
Click to expand...

Swiftech H20 kit, the two fan MCR220 radiator

I wasn't sure what you meant by troubleshooting tool to see CPU vs FSB limited... ? Because I'm getting the sudden deaths when i run 3dmark06 (thinking the 8800gtx is getting juiced up) should i wait til new PSU comes in than attempt OC again or should i go ahead now and don't mess with anything else cept orthos?
 
Are you overclocking the graphics card as well? If you are, set the card to default clocks and see if 3dmark crashes still. . .

Seems to me if the CPU is orthos stable, it shouldnt have a problem with 3dmark. Leads me to think it might be the graphics card. Also, run memtest to make sure your memory is fine.
 
Now I'm at 3.6GHZ, 1.5125v in BIOS, and idles at 50C/49C on SpeedFan
and when I run orthos , instant 100% load, it hits 65C in half a second, then BSOD then shuts off.

Should I check the seating of the CPU block? Should I get a new CPU? Is this normal, but just a bad summer heat?

Also, I'm able to do 3.2GHZ, auto volt, idle at 44C/44C, 100% load at 55C/55C on orthos overnight, and speedfan.

And if my "system" temperature (as shown on ASUS Ai Booster), which I think is the Northbridge temps, is really high at 47C, is that indicative how hot my ambient temps are and why my temps are high?

Suggestions?
 
Last edited:
As you can see from my sig, that is very close to what I was able to do on air. I appear to be stable, although I haven't ORTHO's it yet. (But I've gamed it for hours without any probs.)

I didn't get any additional gains by increasing voltage beyond 1.58. I had it as high as 1.68, but it was still unstable at 3.39.

My MB NB temp has never gone below 47 under load. It doesn't seem to cause any issue. I aim a fan at the NB on the Chassis, set all fans to Performance.

I also thought this was a mild OC. I was hoping for 3.66. But the performance boost in games at 3.38 is pretty noticable.

Edit: My cpu temps at this settings are 51 idle, 60 at load. It's hot, but it hasn't shut down yet. If you are getting similar temps on H20, that makes me suspect a bad mount.

I thought this comparison might help, since you are using the same chip. I'm a little surprised you didn't get much of a push from the H20.

Goshawk showed me that you can lower Northbridge temps by putting a tiny fan on one side of the block with a zip tie. As he mentioned, you won't get any pretty points, but it does lower temps.
 
Last edited:
oakstave said:
As you can see from my sig, that is very close to what I was able to do on air. I appear to be stable, although I haven't ORTHO's it yet. (But I've gamed it for hours without any probs.)

I didn't get any additional gains by increasing voltage beyond 1.58. I had it as high as 1.68, but it was still unstable at 3.39.

My MB NB temp has never gone below 47 under load. It doesn't seem to cause any issue. I aim a fan at the NB on the Chassis, set all fans to Performance.

I also thought this was a mild OC. I was hoping for 3.66. But the performance boost in games at 3.38 is pretty noticable.

Edit: My cpu temps at this settings are 51 idle, 60 at load. It's hot, but it hasn't shut down yet. If you are getting similar temps on H20, that makes me suspect a bad mount.

I thought this comparison might help, since you are using the same chip. I'm a little surprised you didn't get much of a push from the H20.

Goshawk showed me that you can lower Northbridge temps by putting a tiny fan on one side of the block with a zip tie. As he mentioned, you won't get any pretty points, but it does lower temps.
Click to expand...

That was VERY helpful, thanks.

I've recently changed my approach and instead of changing my rig, i"ve been experimenting with ambience and that's made a dramatic difference too... I really am suspecting people should emphasize more on ambience... seems like it's overlooked quite often...

however, regarding your post... I will take your advice over the weekend and remount and even do the zip tie fan, seems like a great idea. I was told the 6xx series ASUS boards, the northbridge should be 1.5v which I have set it at, but man it's hot. A flo across it should do some brownie points, as you have said.. anyway i'll keep you posted, thanks again!
 
treatmentx said:
That was VERY helpful, thanks.

I've recently changed my approach and instead of changing my rig, i"ve been experimenting with ambience and that's made a dramatic difference too... I really am suspecting people should emphasize more on ambience... seems like it's overlooked quite often...QUOTE]

I concur. Honestly, I prefer to run stock most of the time. Less nervousness. But when I want that extra push and OC everything, I set the A/C in the room to 74F. If the room gets too much hotter than that, temps seem to go through the roof. But I'm an air breather...

Really, H20 should be the cure for that ill... Not to accuse you of noobery, but don't forget to use some quality paste: Arctic Silver- and I subscribe to the technique of a single rice grain sized drop right in the center, then push it down on alternate diametrically opposed corners to get it over the whole block. I clean everything with clean coffee filters and isopropyl alcohol beforehand. So far I'm two-for-two on good mounts, but I'm hardly an expert at this.

Interested to hear your results on H20 with the E6700! Oh! You're welcome!:D
Click to expand...
 
The reason I got the 6420 over the 6600 is i knew I would drop the multi ne way to have more mem bw
 
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