Layout in a P182 case? (pics)

Clockwork_Apple · Jul 1, 2007

I recently managed to get a Danger Den 4101 kit for a mere £60 shipped

DD TDX Waterblock
Black Ice Xtreme Rad
Laing D5 Pump
Sunon 120mm fan (90 CFM 3100 RPM 44.5Db)
MCT-5 coolant (~1ltr)
DD Bay Reservoir
1/2" Tygon tubing

The kit is brand new and never used, I've just spent the day cleaning up the block, flushing the rad etc. Considering a D5 in the UK is about £60 alone, I think I got a good deal :clap:

I'm wondering about how to lay out this setup in an Antec P182 that I recently got, and since I'm new to watercooling, I wanted to make sure I'm getting the layout correct.

Here are my current components (need to do some cable management):

Here is the layout I was thinking:

Does everything look ok? In a few weeks I'll be changing to a T-line and including the graphics card in the loop once I get my block. How easy will it be to drain this setup when I want to add the GPU?

Thanks :sn:

Nebulous · Jul 1, 2007

Nice kit. It's easy to drain the system, but it does take a bit of time to refill and bleed.

Also I have my setup like this:

Rad>Cpu block>Pump>Rad

This is with a T line. No need for me to H2o the video card as my ambient temps are nice-n-cool with my AC during the summer

Alot of the guyz will say it doesn't matter if the rad comes before the cpu block or after as there's no noticeable temp difference. I did notice a 2c drop with mine. I like the way the rad is before the cpu block as the block will get the coolest water straight from the rad. Anyways this is my preference. You'll have to see what works best for your setup.

SolidxSnake · Jul 1, 2007

I'd ditch the bayres, they're not that great. Get a microres if you want a res. I'd turn the pump on it's side so the inlet is facing straight up (you'll have to be creative with mounting), otherwise that layout looks good. You might want a 120.2 rad at the minimum if you want to add your GPU in.

Edit: Just realized you already have all the parts. I'd still ditch the bayres and go with a teeline, but to each his own.

Denbob99 · Jul 1, 2007

Pump to rad before block. The pump dumps heat into your liquid so putting it before the block can effect performance (not by much but its still worth doing)

EmAn · Jul 1, 2007

that looks good for a cpu only loop...

i would say

ditch the bay res
get a swiftec micro-res

and if you want to add your gfx card then you need to get a bigger radiator such as a pa 120.2

SolidxSnake · Jul 1, 2007

Denbob99 said:
Pump to rad before block. The pump dumps heat into your liquid so putting it before the block can effect performance (not by much but its still worth doing)

It's been proven time and time again that the order of the loop has no effect in temps. Runs should be kept to the shortest for best performance. Eventually, the water will reach equilibrium, temperatures of the water between various points in the loop will be extremely close.

However, I'd suggest running pump->rad->cpu->tee/res->pump if you lay out the pump, rad and cpu block where you have them laid out. It will allow for the shortest runs of tubing. You may have difficulty getting the run from the rad->cpu, however.

Clockwork_Apple · Jul 1, 2007

SolidxSnake, I'm not that fussed on having a res at all, I'm only using the bay res as I dont have a T fitting and dont want to wait for one to arrive to start putting stuff together. I'll move to a T fitting when I redo the loop for adding the graphics card.

I'll take a look at making a bracket to hold the pump with inlet facing up, it shouldnt be too hard using some sheet aluminium.

EmAn, yeah, I was doubting the single 120mm rad would handle both CPU and GPU, but I'm still debating whether to add a second single rad (easier in this case) or ditch the single rad and go with a double, probably mod the case for it to fit in the top.

I was looking at the Black Ice GT Stealth II, am I correct in thinking that rad is designed for low CFM quiet fans?

Thanks for all the comments so far :clap:

Heres a pic of the water block, looking all nice and shiny :santa:

Clockwork_Apple · Jul 2, 2007

Right, I took a look at how the rad would fit, and it seems it wont fit ANYWHERE without modification

My original idea of putting it on the back exhaust:

...means the sidepanel wont fit on:

So, I took a look at fitting it on the top exhaust, but it wont fit between the edge of the mobo and the top of the case:

This sucks, it wont even fit in the front intake as the case is 1mm too small, so I need to remove the floppy bay which means drilling out the rivets

I've seen so many P180s with the rad in all of those places and no problems, it seems either Antec made the 182 slightly smaller in places or this rad is too big to fit

Sam__ · Jul 2, 2007

can you mount it on the outside?

Clockwork_Apple · Jul 2, 2007

I could but I really dont want to, I wanted everything internal. I'm now thinking that trying to get a 120.2 into this case is not possible.

SolidxSnake · Jul 2, 2007

It looks like you're using a BIX?

A BIP should definitely fit no problem... I'd assume it would at least. It's definitely smaller than the BIX.

EmAn · Jul 2, 2007

i would not go for a BIX or a BIP as they are low quality
i would go for one of these
(although a little expensive)
http://www.petrastechshop.com/thpara1.html
paired with some yate loons
http://www.petrastechshop.com/12yalod1cafa.html

and you will be good...

and yes you will need to do some mods to get the rad inside but if you can do it outside of the case (on back for example) get one of these to mount on the back of your case

http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcrre2raho.html

and put your rad on the back of that... you should be set in a very cool cpu place!

Otter · Jul 3, 2007

EmAn said:
i would not go for a BIX or a BIP as they are low quality

Actually the build quality is pretty good. The older designs don't reflect all that has been learned about air flow with the relatively weak fans many of us prefer, but anyone who already has one of these and is on a budget should not be afraid to use it.

SolidxSnake · Jul 3, 2007

EmAn: Those thermochills are extremely expensive (albeit the best in the market). If you want a rad for low air-flow and can't dig out the cash for a thermochill, an MCR is the way to go.

meionm · Jul 3, 2007

I be starting my watercooling project in antec p182 soon. If I am lucky I can install larger radiator with two tiny holes.

One tiny project done

Clockwork_Apple · Jul 9, 2007

SolidxSnake said:
If you want a rad for low air-flow and can't dig out the cash for a thermochill, an MCR is the way to go.

Finding an MCR in the UK is a nuisance, I just got off the phone with OcUK about when they're getting the MCR220 back in stock, they've got no idea. I cant find any other seller of Swiftech rads in the UK.

My t-line arrived this morning, and I've decided to mount the BIX externally, so I'm all ready. But I'm working 10-12 hour shifts this week so have to wait till the weekend

I'll be sure to post pics of it once it's done

SolidxSnake · Jul 9, 2007

Oh, I wasn't aware of them being rare in the UK.

How are you planning to mount it externally? Rear or top?

Good luck man. :thup:

Otter · Jul 9, 2007

The Thermochill rads won't be as expensive in the UK either. Without the exchange rate or shipping across the pond, the PA series is probably reasonably priced in the UK, though it probably still doesn't qualify as a budget rad.

Clockwork_Apple · Jul 10, 2007

Otter, It's far from budget, the Thermochill PA120.3 is £59 in the UK direct from Thermochill, and doesnt include barbs. Whereas the PA120.3 is $135 (£67) at Petra's Tech Shop. A difference of a mere £8 doesnt make it any more affordable

SolidxSnake, I'll be mounting the BIX externally on the rear exhaust, it's just a temporary setup until I get a new rad and include the GPU, so dont want to mod anything until then. (upgrading to 8800 soon, so still unsure whether to include that or just have a CPU loop).

Thanks

meionm, nice setup. I like how you didnt have to modify the case to fit that tripple rad, also what size is that tubing on the T-line?

I got the day off wednesday, someone covered my shift, so I can set it all up then :santa:

meionm · Jul 10, 2007

Clockwork_Apple said:
meionm, nice setup. I like how you didnt have to modify the case to fit that tripple rad, also what size is that tubing on the T-line?

Tubing is masterkleer 7/16id. T Line is 1/2id, 1/2id, 5/8id, so one piece of tubing on t line is 5/8id

Layout in a P182 case? (pics)

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