About to pull the trigger

About to pull the trigger on this setup and wanted some last minute confirmation to see if there are any red flags

I allready have a Q6600 SLACR on order from Clubit that will be here shorty. I allready have an EVGA 8800 GTX 768 and a Samsung 226 BW that I will be bringing over from my old system.

Mobo:Asus P5K Premium Black Pearl: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16813131190

Memory: 2 X 2gb sticks Patriot DDR2 800 extreme performance 5-5-5-12: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16820220227

Case: Antec P182: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16811129025

PSU: Silverstone OP850 single rail 70a 850W: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16817256024

Drives: 3 X Seagate Barracuda 250 gb, 7200.10, 16mb cache, SATA 3.0Gb/s: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16822148262
(BTW, What the heck does the OEM stand for....I know its used to denote a single use license for OS, but how bout for drives? There were none marked as retail)

HS: TT Ultra 120- Extreme: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16835109140

Optical Drives: Undecided as of yet. Any suggestions?

Purpose for the new rig is:
1. Im enjoying learning more about computers and OCing and want to put together a nice system.
2. Online gaming

Im still debating between the Antec P182 and the Antec 900, or a CM stacker/CM 832 or something.....but I figure thats no big deal either way I go.....

Im not 100% sure on the PSU or the Drives, but from my research thus far they should all be quality components. I purposely did not go with raptors since I have heard they are loud, and the barracudas should be close in performance and a ton quieter (i am told).

The CPU, Mobo, Memory, and HS im pretty rock solid on, unless someone tells me Im missing something......

Any red flags? Anything that doesnt look right? Am I forgetting anything? I need A5S, and the drives that I have listed dont come with SATA cables from newegg so I need those....sandpaper for lapping, zip ties, Scythe-S for the TT Ultra 120-E.....and.......?

Anything else?

Total $$$ for the above mentioned hardware is $1129.90 including shipping.

Thanks again...every last one of you guys have been incredibly helpful to me as I have diarrhea of the keyboard on a daily basis and pick your brains

OEM means it isn't retail version. No worries.

For optical drive, I like the samsung SH-S203B. Top rated drive with excellent burn quality.

It's TR120E FWIW.

That psu is way overkill for a single card set up.

Thanks for the input thus far.

JamesXP said:

That psu is way overkill for a single card set up.

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What PSU would you recommend in its place and why?

JamesXP said:

It's TR120E FWIW.

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LOL....you are correct I knew it was Thermalright and dont know why I posted TT.... Thx

Dawgdoc said:

Thanks for the input thus far.



What PSU would you recommend in its place and why?

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With just a single card system like that, you would be fine with the OP650 or DA650. Or the ever popular Corsair HX520.


EDIT: Oh and if you are interested in the Stacker 832, I recommend you look at the new Coolermaster Cosmos 1000. It's got features galore. I had the Stacker 830 and it's a great case, but the Cosmos just seems to have better features, IMO.

Thx for the PSU info Ill check them out.

RE: The CM Cosmos.... I looked into it, but #1 it doesnt fit under my desk (damn that thing is huge!!!!!) and #2 I read several reports of it being a hard drive oven and it cooking hard drives, especially if you have several in there like I plan on doing. The other thing that I didnt like was In the reviews I read you cant open the front door more than 90 degrees.

For those reasons, I skipped over the Cosmos, but I love the way it looks and it definitely seems feature rich.

Thx for the input

Hmm...after reviewing the Corsair 520HX I cant see why that is such a popular PSU....

It has 3 +12V rails, which from what I have read means that there is a very real potential for wasted power on unused rails, whereas on a monorail the full amperage is available whereever needed.

Am I missing something?

It's not got real 'rails' they all draw off one 40A rail

Dawgdoc said:

Hmm...after reviewing the Corsair 520HX I cant see why that is such a popular PSU....

It has 3 +12V rails, which from what I have read means that there is a very real potential for wasted power on unused rails, whereas on a monorail the full amperage is available whereever needed.

Am I missing something?

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Yeah, it's actually a single rail PSU, just marketed as a multi-rail. If you want a good PSU review site, this is the definitive IMO:
http://www.jonnyguru.com/

The reviews are very indepth and they don't just put an Athlon 64 system with a 7900GT on the PSU and say "Hey it ran this system, it must be a good PSU!". They hook it up to load testers and measure everything carefully. They also monitor it with a scope to check for ripple, etc. I definitely trust their reviews.

And here's the HX520 review: http://www.jonnyguru.com/review_details.php?id=28

Jonny says that it looks to him to be a single rail PSU. He even tests it by putting a 30A load on one of the 12v rails and it doesn't trip. This either proves its a single rail setup or that there's no OCP on the divided rails. He says in the review that he'll take corsair's/seasonic's word for it that there are separate rails, but it sure looks like there isn't.


EDIT: And either way, whether there are 2 rails or just one, if it'll take a 30A load on a single rail, that should fit your needs for not wanting any 'wasted power' sitting there.

oem mean 'original equipment manufacturer'. basically it's how the product is packaged to be sent to a builder ie no extra/manuals/box. like if a dell used seagate drives, seagate would send them oem packages cause they wouldn't use all the extras. retail packages are generally what you see on store shelves.

I would change:

PSU: Corsair HX520 or HX620
DRIVE: Samsung SH-S203B

p.s. you have 2x2GB memory... will you be using vista?

djrussell said:

oem mean 'original equipment manufacturer'. basically it's how the product is packaged to be sent to a builder ie no extra/manuals/box. like if a dell used seagate drives, seagate would send them oem packages cause they wouldn't use all the extras. retail packages are generally what you see on store shelves.

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To add to that: OEM often does not carry a manufacturer warranty, the warranty is usually provided by the seller. The only instance I can think of off the top of my head where this isn't true is with most harddrives. Even OEM harddrives usually carry a manufacturer warranty.