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Help with identifing Caps from a 8800GTS Video card.

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K

KnownKiller

Member
​
Joined
Jun 22, 2002
Location
Macomb Twp, Michigan
Hello,

I just bought a damaged EVGA 8800GTS 320MB Super Clocked card from someone online. All the silver caps were broken off apon other things that were damaged in shipping in the past.


Picture037(1).jpg



Anyways i need to know what these aluminum caps with a plastic base are called and were i could buy some replacements?

The guy told me the numbers off the top of the caps.

From top to bottom:

648
SVP
180
16

Ofcourse i have no idea what any of the numbers mean..

Please help me out.. i'm hoping i can repair the card and give it to my Godson for Christmas.
 
Last edited:
They are Sanyo OSCON SVP Series 180uF, 16V. They are classified as "Vertical Standard" sometimes mistakenly classified as SMD. The SVP series is 105C whereas the SVQP is rated at 125 C. I recently purchased 10,000 pieces on e-bay. Hope this helps..

648 - Package number
SVP - Series 105 C
180 - 180 uF
16 - 16V
 
Last edited:
To answer your latter question, replacements can be purchased at Capacitors Plus or on e-bay. Sanyo OSCON caps are really really hard to find.
 
The original owner sold it to someone overseas and it was damaged in shipping.

Heres where the real trouble lies in the tear in the PCB where this chip was tore up. I hope to figure out how to fix this. i should check this area out first before i order the caps.

Picture048.jpg
 
After looking at that ^ pic, I am starting to think your options are:
A - send the card for repair to the manufacturer (who knows, maybe it is not too expensive)
B - buy an identical card with a dead core or memory or whatever, and use the parts from that donor card. Seems a good choice especially since goonda said that those caps are scarce...
C - suck it up and call it a day

I would go with option C, considering that PCB tear. Those multilayer traces are impossible to fix.
 
Last edited:
Bought the card mainly cause i love fixing stuff and it looked like a fun project.. I've never fixed something with a tear in the PCB and it looked like a nice challange. The harder it is to fix the bigger the reward when it fires up! :)

Plus if i get it fixed i'm thinking to give it to my Godson for Christmas.

I paid the guy $83.00 for the card and extra cooler.. Not gona give up till i figure it out.
 
Wow, is that a wide open crack at the PCB under that cracked inductor (1R0) you circled ? :-/
 
aja said:
That is true about the reward factor:D

Are any other chips damaged?
Click to expand...

No other report of any besides the tiny C33 resistor under that broken black inductor. The owner said he has it so that should be the easiest fix.

I'll know more when i get the card.. Said he shipping it out tomorrow via USPS Priority mail.
 
bing said:
Wow, is that a wide open crack at the PCB under that cracked inductor (1R0) you circled ? :-/
Click to expand...

Look more like a top layer tear under the left pad.. hopefully its not too bad. I'll have to take that chip off to find out how many broken traces and if anything important under the top PCB layer. Woud be super sweet if i could just somehow glue the tear down and solder a new 1R0 chip and be done. But i'm thinkin its gona me a mess and i'll either have to buy some expesive tool or kit to get it done or send it out if its not too expensive to get that part fixed.

If i have it my way it will be new tools and do it myself as thats what i want. No money so it may have to be an early X-Mas present from the parents or something hehe.
 
The picture does not tell a whole lot, but if the traces are o.k and inner layers are not damaged, I'd go with nail-polish presuming you are using this card in an extreme cooling setup. If not, be careful as nail polish is not the best thing to use on a PCB which is at say 60C.
 
I guess nail polish as SN suggested is just good for sticking that peeled silk layer back in place if there is no crack at underneath layer.

But remember, that chipped inductor is swithing one and will be hot, worry the heat might affect that cured polish since they're basically low melting point plastic.
 
KnownKiller said:
Ok so say nail-polish isint the ticket.. What else? Epoxy?
Click to expand...

I have used epoxy to stick down integrated heat spreaders on naked CPU's and also some other non-PC circuits without any problems.

Spread a line of the stuff, let it dry, then measure with your multimeter to make sure that it is not conductive.

Hot glue from a glue gun works great, but the heat will probably burn it over time (those who have left a glue gun running overnight by mistake will know how bad the smell really is...)
 
Although I'm not sure how bad that damage is, if I were you, I won't use any glue.

"If possible" without shorting or damaging any other trace, I will scrap clean that peeled silk screeen until the copper exposed, where the left inductor's pin is soldered to and just use a bloop of solder to stick it ! :D

Anyway that connection supposed to be thick trace since its switching power trace. Not pretty, but it works if done properly.

Also, as another insurance, I will trace that peeled copper's trace, and should be easy to add another parallel route from that inductor's left leg to that soic mosfet if I'm not mistaken (that Fairchild with F symbol), and that tantalum cap with extra wire to ensure low resistance path.

Again, just a suggestion. ;)
 
Last edited:
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