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Black water?...intenionally!

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Old 04-15-08, 12:57 PM Thread Starter   #1
ajrettke
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Black water?...intenionally!


I saw a pick a while ago (wish I would remember where or had saved it) but it was your standard clear tubing but the water was black. I was thinking about using black tubing, but this might be just a little cooler.
Anyone done this or seen it done and know what dye they used?

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Old 04-15-08, 01:13 PM   #2
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primochill and fesserone both have the black dyes I think
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Old 04-15-08, 01:28 PM   #3
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I have the feser black dye. It's supposed to be blue under UV light. It is, but it just isn't all that reactive. The water is more of a very dark purple than black. I like it though.
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Old 04-15-08, 01:29 PM   #4
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black water would be intresting. not sure if it would be cooler though.

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Old 04-15-08, 02:29 PM   #5
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Use black tubing

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Old 04-15-08, 03:44 PM   #6
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feserone black uv dye: http://www.feser-one.com/site/produc...roducts_id=281

Knew it was one of the two, just couldn't remember which

edit to SAM__: By cooler he means by looks, not by temps
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Old 04-15-08, 05:14 PM   #7
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"spoony" at XS has it



that guy has a bad elbow lol

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Old 04-15-08, 06:17 PM   #8
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There is just enough black FluidXP in my ghetto rig to make the distilled water black

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Old 04-15-08, 06:25 PM   #9
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I thought you were talking about the balckwater security for a second....
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Old 04-15-08, 06:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarsbaby View Post
I thought you were talking about the balckwater security for a second....
Same...
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanCurtis1983 View Post
There is just enough black FluidXP in my ghetto rig to make the distilled water black

+1 for using crappy Wii games as a stand

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Old 04-16-08, 06:47 PM   #11
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Same...


+1 for using crappy Wii games as a stand


Call of Duty 3 was pretty cool. Red Steel is the worst game ever made.
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Old 04-16-08, 07:57 PM   #12
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-1 if someone opens that door.

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Old 04-16-08, 08:07 PM   #13
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-1 if someone opens that door.
lol

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Old 04-17-08, 10:34 AM   #14
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On the topic of fluids and colors, I'm looking at Feser and FluidXp coolants, and had a question about em. I know they will eventually stain say Masterkleer and Clearflex, maybe even Tygon I dunno, but will they stain my EK res? Blocks?

I usually don't use a res, or "coolant" per say, usually only distilled water and a few drops of dawn and biocide on a t-line, and let er rip.

But I'm going for the "better looking than a T, and easier maintenance too" idea, and do not want this stuff to damage a $45 res of awesomeness.

I wanted to go with the black stuff, but unfortunately, everyone is going with the black stuff, so it's not that eye catching anymore. Leaning to the acid green or orange to match my new DFI, also like the purple, but I have Zerex if I want to go that route.

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Old 04-17-08, 11:47 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanCurtis1983 View Post
There is just enough black FluidXP in my ghetto rig to make the distilled water black


I have that same case. I have not cut the top yet so my WC fits. Do you have a close up of that top? Sorry to hijack. That black fluid is sick.

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Old 04-17-08, 12:02 PM   #16
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I use the Phantom black FluidXP in my system. It stained the Tygon tubing just a bit, but my EK full cover GPU block looked spotless last time I pulled my loop apart.

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Old 04-17-08, 12:05 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slayer2003 View Post
On the topic of fluids and colors, I'm looking at Feser and FluidXp coolants, and had a question about em. I know they will eventually stain say Masterkleer and Clearflex, maybe even Tygon I dunno, but will they stain my EK res? Blocks?

I usually don't use a res, or "coolant" per say, usually only distilled water and a few drops of dawn and biocide on a t-line, and let er rip.

But I'm going for the "better looking than a T, and easier maintenance too" idea, and do not want this stuff to damage a $45 res of awesomeness.

I wanted to go with the black stuff, but unfortunately, everyone is going with the black stuff, so it's not that eye catching anymore. Leaning to the acid green or orange to match my new DFI, also like the purple, but I have Zerex if I want to go that route.
Just get a cheaper res, or make one yourself. I'm going to be using just a $15 res. Tupperware container maybe?
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Old 04-17-08, 05:23 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarsbaby View Post
Just get a cheaper res, or make one yourself. I'm going to be using just a $15 res. Tupperware container maybe?
My first 2 attempts at water cooling reservoirs did not go well. My first setup ever, was using a Swiftec BayRes. Remember those? Yah, proclamied a Godsend when they came out, a bit later were known for splitting all around the seam. Killed my 6800Extreme.

Next attempt was with a "higher quality" bay res, those ones that fill up 3 5-1/4" drives? Yah, the glue didn't bond around the front corners, and I developed a very prolonged drip, that ruined my PC-65 by letting the Zerex eat the anodized coating. Hooray.

I've run a T-line for 2 years since, but they look bad IMHO, and take forever to bleed with a full-tower case that you can't shake about the way you can with a mid sized one.

I do A LOT of LANs, I want something that will last. Tupperware and disposable containers, not so appealing to this thought. Besides, if I make one out of acrylic, I have to worry about jointing and if the seams are perfect and the glue bonded correctly with no gaps, over-use, under-use, and the glue having bubbles in it otherwise I get a res that splits open and kills my rather not cheap hardware. That makes for a very destructive panda.

I would rather pay $45 to have a very respected company in the field of water cooling and block making, take a cast tube, threaded and fit to a CNC delrin top and bottom, with pre-tapped holes and high-flow barbs. Add fluid, turn rig on, and be set as the system purges itself. And its very much this easy with the Swifty QR rads, as they have a bleed screw.

Sorry for the long drug-out explanation, but I can't see myself trusting something either cheaper by an unknown company or one that would involve mixing other metals into my loop, or making something that would possibly fail and damage/destroy yet another rig because I took the cheap way out.


It is good to know though that the stuff only seems to affect the much mroe porous tubing and not the cast plastics. Certainly a plus.

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Old 04-17-08, 05:38 PM   #19
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Quote:
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I have that same case. I have not cut the top yet so my WC fits. Do you have a close up of that top? Sorry to hijack. That black fluid is sick.
I would take a close up pic but the computer is in Alabama and I'm in Utah. I had to cut the top because I made the tubes too long. This was my first loop, so I made some freshman mistakes. It does cool pretty well though.

That door is to my raised and enclosed patio, so noone uses it. In the winter, I would open it, set the heater core in teh door way, and strap 4 80MM fans to suck the cold air in. Would get the water just below ambiant temps in the room for benching. Pretty cool.
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Old 04-17-08, 10:13 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slayer2003 View Post
On the topic of fluids and colors, I'm looking at Feser and FluidXp coolants, and had a question about em. I know they will eventually stain say Masterkleer and Clearflex, maybe even Tygon I dunno, but will they stain my EK res? Blocks?.
i would stay away from FluidXp. search it up in forums you will find good reads on it. its known from bad temps, to damaging pumps.

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