[Th3 F4ll3n P1mp]

Argh...my res is cracked...the thing is brand new, too!
How is it possible?! Also, in the pics, you can see a little pocket of liquid, or air...dont want that leaking onto my gts...
Any way to fix it? Im also thinking of buying a t-line and end all this res business...

[jiggamanjb]

I don't see it

[Th3 F4ll3n P1mp]

1st pic is on the bottom left, you see plenty of little cracks, and near the front hook thing you see a little liquid seeping out.
2nd pic has a little bit of them on top, and some near the front hook again.
3rd pic bottom left again, and theres a big one near the front hook, but you cant really see it because its a picture.

[saxile]

did you have it near something that get's really hot? That could crack it, also tighting barbs to tight and to much pressure from the hoses can. You could try some epoxy on it and that should hold tight with no leaks.

[Th3 F4ll3n P1mp]

I put it right under the psu, but the psu isnt hot at all, and the barbs are pretty loose. Ill try the epoxy though, thanks. Btw, how much would it cost to get a t-line? Im thinking about selling the res to anyone who wants it, and just pop in a t-line.

[saxile]

a couple of cents, just need a t and some tubing

psu gets hotter than one might think

[phil178821]

for a t-line.. i went with a delrin T and delrin fill port. so thats means i spent about 25ish on those and then maybe a foot of hose.

you dont have to get delrin parts or even a fill port. you can just find something around the house or at the local hardware store for a buck to cork the top and use a polypropylene T for like $2. costing u maybe 5 bucks

sry about your res

[dawp]

did ya have water wetter in the coolent? I had a res crack worse than that when i put water wetter in the mix.

[the_cultie]

If it's brand new I'd send it back and get a refund or replacement. Those cracks shouldn't happen with a new one. Am I right in thinking that you are using the Swiftech Hydrx coolant?

[lokitexas]

Originally Posted by the_cultie

If it's brand new I'd send it back and get a refund or replacement. Those cracks shouldn't happen with a new one. Am I right in thinking that you are using the Swiftech Hydrx coolant?

I agree. Where did you get it from? If its a decent place they should replace that. And I do believe he is using the Hydrax.

[Nebulous]

The saga continues. Another res leaks.... I hope you get a T line.


i was just informing saxile thru a thread that I had 2 resevoirs leak on me, thus is why i don't use them nor do I recommend them.

Only way I'll ever use a resevoir again is if it's made from 1 piece of either plexi or metal. Not these dam things made of several pieces and glued together.

[saxile]

ST Hydrex is antifreeze which could be one fault of leaking, anything that contains it will eat the glue away, only fluid I recommend using in a res thats glued is primochill utopia+water or primochill ice/pure. Feser, hydrex, fluid xp, zalman, koolance, and may be more all contain antifreeze in them. EK res is the only non-glued res I know of, and there are plenty made of metal bu cost 50+

[lokitexas]

Originally Posted by Nebulous

The saga continues. Another res leaks.... I hope you get a T line.


i was just informing saxile thru a thread that I had 2 resevoirs leak on me, thus is why i don't use them nor do I recommend them.

Only way I'll ever use a resevoir again is if it's made from 1 piece of either plexi or metal. Not these dam things made of several pieces and glued together.

Heh...I have been using an acrylic res for a while (2 years)...no issues yet. I think it might just be bad luck.

I dont like the look of a T-line personally. Also, Switech makes that plastic one that fits in a bay. I have that one laying around somewhere...thats a solid one piece.

[Th3 F4ll3n P1mp]

Originally Posted by the_cultie

If it's brand new I'd send it back and get a refund or replacement. Those cracks shouldn't happen with a new one. Am I right in thinking that you are using the Swiftech Hydrx coolant?

Yep, its hydrx.
I got all of the parts in my loop from newegg, and its an h20-220. Its not even 1 month old. Ill call up swiftech, and tell them about it, get a new res, and sell that and buy a t-line with the cash. T-lines also take up less space.

[Slayer2003]

Have had several reservoirs fail on me, and switched to a tline for about 3 years.

Giving them a shot again, with one from EK Water Blocks, made from a rather thick acrylic tube thats threaded into a delrin top and bottom, with lots of combinations for loop direction.

Have heard nothing bad about these, or anything from EK actually, so my hopes are high.

[Th3 F4ll3n P1mp]

I bet its too expensive lol...
Ill just go for a tline.

[Gillbot]

I've been thinking T line, if for the cost savings alone.

[Mycobacteria]

You can patch it.

What I do is shove a vaccume cleaner onto one of the barbs close the others end off with plugs tubes and hose clamps etc

This gives total negative pressure in the res...

Go along each joint with a needle filled with "acetone glue" and let it get sucked into any 'cracks' or leaks.

Once you find the leak the acetone will be sucked in and you can visually see where the leak is.

Let the glue set for 24 hrs, then leak test it again with the vaccume cleaner.

Do not leak test with water untill the gule has compelty set. If it is not set and you add water the glue will turn white instead of setting clear and looks ugly.

Acetone glue = acetone + shavings of acrylic, the shavings of acrylic will disolve in the acetone overnight, the more shavings you put in the thicker the glue gets.

I have used this method while I was building my res, it works really well, because its flawless in looks your effectively using capilary bonding techniques.

Also the negative pressure of a vaccume cleaner puts a lot of stress on the joints so you are efectively testing its structure and build quality. We all know air tight is water tight.

[Th3 F4ll3n P1mp]

Thanks myco, thats a good idea. Ill RMA the res, and sell that to someone, and just buy a tline. The less tubing in my rig the better, im trying to get some wire management done lol.

[Tweaked!]

Wow, that's a trip P1mp, I've had three of those res working here at the house since their inception (I think I've had them for around two years now) and never an issue. Plus I run a mix of antifreeze and water (about the same mix as I run in my car) and still have not had an issue. I did have a Eheim pump eventually crack around the influent and effluent threaded connections, which took out a motherboard.
But I've been watercooling now for 6 years or so, and I've never had a problem with antifreeze. There's been a few times where I've had as much as ten computers being water cooled here in my basement for the folding farm and used antifreeze with all of them. Maybe I've just been getting lucky...