I've never used distilled water before, so im stuck.

I've always been using feser 1, and now, i want the cheap H2O, but i got no idea what to add. Can anyone clarify? I think one of my fill port is aluminum, and i want it to be non corrosive.

small amount of antifreeze will work fine or some pentosin

One of your fill ports? Are you running a couple loops or did you mean to say "fittings" or "barbs"? If only your fill port is aluminum then you don't need any anti corrosion additives, just don't fill the T to the top. If you think some of your fittings are aluminum they are probably just stainless steel, I've never seen aluminum fittings. Distilled water works fine as long as you don't have an aluminum radiator or water blocks mixed with copper parts.

I've seen alu fittings many times, albit any computer shop won't sell em, but they do exist and you may have em if you bought from a hardware store.

Ben333 said:

One of your fill ports? Are you running a couple loops or did you mean to say "fittings" or "barbs"? If only your fill port is aluminum then you don't need any anti corrosion additives, just don't fill the T to the top. If you think some of your fittings are aluminum they are probably just stainless steel, I've never seen aluminum fittings. Distilled water works fine as long as you don't have an aluminum radiator or water blocks mixed with copper parts.

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correct!

i have the danger den fill port that is aluminum and as long as it's not filled to the top your fine as far as corrosion goes.

Spawn-Inc said:

correct!

i have the danger den fill port that is aluminum and as long as it's not filled to the top your fine as far as corrosion goes.

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I concur

If you want the ultimate in non conductivity, distilled water is third best, reverse osmosis deionized water is second best, and reverse osmosis deionized water that is THEN distilled is the absolute best.

You can accomplish this at home with relatively inexpensive materials although if you buy it from someone like a lab who uses lab grade R/O machines you can get water which has a TRUE TDS and conductivity of absolutely nothing.

Just to explain: Reverse osmosis passes water through a TEFLON membrane which is so tight that what comes out the other end is pure water to about 999,990/1,000,000. Then running that through a resin which deionizes the water further reduces any remaining positive ionic charge in the water.

Taking this water, which is already ultra pure, then ditilling it by vaporizing it and recondensing the vapor, pretty much guarantees 0 ppt (parts per trillion) of absolutely anything and is true true true pure water with electrical conductivity near absolutely zero. The only thing less conductive is fluorinert.

can anyone name something like PT nuke or something like that? i also want to use feser UV dye. any comments?

No point in buying or making very good distilled water if you're going to screw it up with dye. Just use distilled water and PT Nuke. If you really, really want to use dye, go ahead, but it hurts the thermal and increases the electrical conductivity of water.

If you really want a colored or UV effect i would look into get some reactive tubing IMO

Theocnoob said:

If you want the ultimate in non conductivity, distilled water is third best, reverse osmosis deionized water is second best, and reverse osmosis deionized water that is THEN distilled is the absolute best.

You can accomplish this at home with relatively inexpensive materials although if you buy it from someone like a lab who uses lab grade R/O machines you can get water which has a TRUE TDS and conductivity of absolutely nothing.

Just to explain: Reverse osmosis passes water through a TEFLON membrane which is so tight that what comes out the other end is pure water to about 999,990/1,000,000. Then running that through a resin which deionizes the water further reduces any remaining positive ionic charge in the water.

Taking this water, which is already ultra pure, then ditilling it by vaporizing it and recondensing the vapor, pretty much guarantees 0 ppt (parts per trillion) of absolutely anything and is true true true pure water with electrical conductivity near absolutely zero. The only thing less conductive is fluorinert.

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Of course the problem with any of this is that over time you'll end up getting metal ions in the water from the blocks themselves and it'll become more and more conductive over time. This is true of ANY aqueous fluid including the expensive so called "non-conductive" fluids like FluidXP. If you're worried about leaks stick to a regular flush cycle of ever 6 months to a year to prevent problems. I don't flush out my system with any regularity and I've never had a problem even when I spill a little from the T-Line onto a card,

Also stick to regular distilled water since the difference in conductivity isn't THAT great over the other two mentioned. That and it's only $1-$1.50/gallon v.s. several dollars per gallon for lab grade de-ionized water.

Moto7451 said:

Of course the problem with any of this is that over time you'll end up getting metal ions in the water from the blocks themselves and it'll become more and more conductive over time. This is true of ANY aqueous fluid including the expensive so called "non-conductive" fluids like FluidXP. If you're worried about leaks stick to a regular flush cycle of ever 6 months to a year to prevent problems. I don't flush out my system with any regularity and I've never had a problem even when I spill a little from the T-Line onto a card,

Also stick to regular distilled water since the difference in conductivity isn't THAT great over the other two mentioned. That and it's only $1-$1.50/gallon v.s. several dollars per gallon for lab grade de-ionized water.

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+1

It doesn't make sense to go through the trouble having the absolutely purest water available, only to mess it up by running it through a loop where it's going to get all those impurities put right back in it. Also, what thermal advantage does this give you? Is it going to lower your temps in any measureable way, over plain distilled? I also agree about the color. If you want a clean loop and color, go for the colored tubing. Much cleaner looking and you don't have to worry about the dye clogging up your blocks. If you pick a black or silver tubing, you'll be slowing the algae growing potential by block out the UV light. That along with some PT Nuke and you should be good to go.

Axis

Running pure distilled water has better thermal conductivity (on paper) than something like FluidXP but in practice there's no meaningful difference.

Moto7451 said:

Running pure distilled water has better thermal conductivity (on paper) than something like FluidXP but in practice there's no meaningful difference.

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The most meaningful difference on paper will be on the receipt.

Axis

Any real difference between PTNuke and Hydrx? I see a lot of people mention PTNuke here. I used Hydrx in my last build and never had any issues.

if you want extra's like colour and what not then hydrex will work but if you want pure performance the less you add the better. 2 drops of pt nuke is all you need, the rest is distilled water.

Not sure if this applies here, but it it is some good reading none the less. I run pure distilled water in my quad all summer long and it works beautifully. It is an all aluminum block/ rad; however.

"

The DADDOG DOGRIDERS YAMAHA YFZ-450 FREE RADIATOR COOLING PAGE.

"GREETINGS YFZ-450 owner! WELCOME to our site, SIR!!"

INCREASE THE SIZE OF YOUR RADIATOR 30% for FREE!
Ok, here is the truth.You can INCREASE your radiator efficiency by 30 percent FOR FREE! I will tell you how, but ...

(The truth sometimes gets me in trouble) But I have to tell you.

In summer time you should never use ethylene glycol or propylene glycol.

. The heat carrying capacity of pure distilled water is 30 percent more in water than ethylene glycol (antifreeze) propylene glycol is even worse (engine ice).

Note! The specific heat capacity of an ethylene glycol based water solution is less than the specific heat of clean water. For a heat transfer system the circulated volume must be increased.

In a 50% solution with operational temperatures above 36 oF the specific heat capacity is decreased with aprox. 20%. The reduced specific heat capacity must be compensated by circulating more fluid.

IF YOU WANT TO RUN ANTIFREEZE (who knows why) you should get a bigger aftermarket radiator.

For summer and racing the best thing you can do is run pure distilled water (AS LONG AS YOU ARE SURE THE EVENING TEMP DOES NOT FREEZE.

For example at GLAMIS you should run water all the time. you wont develop chemical sludge and the vicosity is much better (READ: MORE FLOW BETTER COOLING)

Yes, the boiling temp goes up with antifreeze mix, but by only a few degrees, but the heat dcarrying capacity goes way up higher than that! In other words you will never reach boiling temp usually if you just use water, It is like getting a 30% bigger radiator. RUNNING STRAIGHT WATER increases your heat carrying capacity by 30 percent MORE! and the flow of water is faster increaseing it to 40-50 percent more cooling!

Now this is veryconfrontational to all those who SELL ENGINE ICE AND ANTIFREEZE!

They call it SUMMER COOLANT but it cools LESS than water!

You can bet the flames are coming and we will be ripped apart on this one, but the facts is, in summer you should run distilled water. (its cheaper)

(Its better) I am just trying to help.

Now, after a few experts tell us how wrong we are etc, 90 percent will decide on antifreeze again. wait and see.

There is nothing more powerful than an expert to sell things.

But the free spirits will now have a cheaper time of it. And you can relax.

WATER PURE WATER is the BEST COOLANT NATURE HAS FOR US.

But you cant make a lot of money with it.

Now for winter, you SHOULD USE ANTIFREEZE.

A mix of ethylene glycol 25% and 75 % water can absorb .953 BTU / pound

A mix of ethylene glycol 30% and 70 % water can absorb .936 BTU / pound

A mix of ethylene glycol 40% and 60 % water can absorb .905 BTU / pound

A mix of ethylene glycol 50% and 50 % water can absorb .865 BTU / pound

A mix of ethylene glycol 60% and 40 % water can absorb .843 BTU / pound

A mix of ethylene glycol 65% and 35 % water can absorb .828 BTU / pound

for the most heat carrying and absobing and releasing power per pound use plain water.

Even though the boiling temp goes UP with ethylene glycol, this is BAD. You want the boiling temp to stay low.

nothing like a high temp pressure cooker to destroy and cook gaskets.

I hate to be the one to break this, but someone has to tell the ones who listen that you are spending money on something not as good as a cheaper alternative.

This is a hot topic because there is money involved.

In college in physics class this is a standard project, it is used every year to find the specific heat of water and ehtylene glycol mix, and it is used every year to exapand critical thinking, in other words everyone thinks the antifreeze cools better till they test it.

Science is nice, because you cant argue with it.

Facts are facts.

water cools better then antifreeze-water mix.

The reason you dont hear about it is this:

Antifreeze company will not prijt on their bottles USE WATER IT COOLS BETTER THAN THIS. now do they?

NO INDEED they add things like SUPER SUMMER COOLER so that you think it is.

So for those who want better cooling in the dunes, use water.

You see, your impeller will always push the same speed.

when you have a high heat absobing compound that is thin, it is better than a lower heat absobing compound that is thick.

I wont say anymore about it, but go to google and search it out. you will find that water works very well. in fact it is the best for summer.

If you use the antifreeze the fluid can get Hotter in degrees before it boils, But it takes way less heat to get there then water, think about that a bit.

In other words, the antifreeze will get to 250 degrees before the water will get to 212.

plus your engine is guaranteed never to go above 212 with water, (higher under pressure) water cools the best.

So, like it or leave it, If you like the green color of antifreeze, go ahead and buy it, it will work great for winter! But for summer we want better cooling. Use water in your quad for keeping your motor cool, Also if you spill it it does not make a mess.



"

Spawn-Inc said:

correct!

i have the danger den fill port that is aluminum and as long as it's not filled to the top your fine as far as corrosion goes.

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doesn't the anodizing prevent corrosion?

maxspam said:

doesn't the anodizing prevent corrosion?

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to a certain extent yes but it will wear off and they can't anodize the threads, if they can screwing in the barb will surely wear it off and leave a small part of aluminum open to the water.

Nope, we have seen time and time again. Anodizing is a very very thin chemical coat over the aluminum. All it takes is the tiniest scratch and corrosion can start. And the anodizing actually will slowly leach off in time and expose the aluminum.