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Vid - PIN wire wrapping for Tualatin Celeron

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Pinky

Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2001
Location
Las Vegas, NV
Much of the information below is a repeat from an overclocking article that was written prior to the release of the Tualatin core. Besides the spec sheet/voltages available, little else has changed (even appears that the PINs are the same ;) ).

On page 61 of the Intel Specs Sheet you will find the diagram of the pins of a Tualatin Celeron. For a close up view, visit here. Please note VID1 and VID2 towards the upper right of the diagram. These are the PINs we will be wrapping.

Vid Pinning your cpu changes the default voltage for your cpu to a higher value, in this case from 1.475 to 1.675 With this additional voltage you will be able to run your processor at higher clock speeds. Beware that increased voltages will generate more heat and require better than retail heatsink cooling. Perform voltage modifications at your own risk!!

There's some additional information/discussion here and here.

This is relatively simple, but careful attention needs to be paid to only connecting the proper pins together and ensuring no stray wire touches the surrounding pins.

Personally, I used a single strand of copper speaker wire cut to about 3 inch length. Created a tiny hook with needle nosed pliers on one end, and patiently wrapped the pins, pulling very slightly to keep the tension. Once wrapped 4 to 5 times, I pulled with a little force. The first few times pulling the wire caused the wire to unwrap and I had to start over, but it's necessary in order to keep them tight once you flip the processor and place it in the socket.

I cut the remaining wire away and ensured the left over wire would not become loose. In this picture it appears that the wire does not run a risk of touching the other pins (NOTE: this was not a picture of my own wrapping ;) ).

This takes a little common sense, a slightly steady hand, and much patience. Total time: 15 minutes. Results: 1530mhz (127mhz bus speed) at 1.82V on an Abit VH6T motherboard.

Good luck!
 
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zoopa_man said:
Hey bud. Thanks....If you want give me a call. I'll take you out for a few beers :) You diserve a few, nice work :beer:

I drink coffee, if you're buying then I'm drinking :highlycaffeinated:
 
Its great we have a sticky on this. IMHO, a much better method is the pin hole method. Bend a tiny strand of hair fine wire into a U. Drop it in the VID1 and VID2 holes in the socket. The CPU will still drop in as it normally does. This way you don't run the risk of the wire touching the other pins, it also allows the CPU to sit all the way down in the socket instead of being raised up slightly in one corner. It is also a heck of a lot easier than trying to wrap wire around pins.
 
oldfart said:
Its great we have a sticky on this. IMHO, a much better method is the pin hole method. Bend a tiny strand of hair fine wire into a U. Drop it in the VID1 and VID2 holes in the socket. The CPU will still drop in as it normally does. This way you don't run the risk of the wire touching the other pins, it also allows the CPU to sit all the way down in the socket instead of being raised up slightly in one corner. It is also a heck of a lot easier than trying to wrap wire around pins.

Sounds really easy and not risky where the wire is like really small and doesn't create any bumps when everything is hitting the flat surface. Where the twisting and turning the wire gets me worried since I'd be afraid of doing it wrong or bending a pin or something.

Yodums
 
oldfart said:
Its great we have a sticky on this. IMHO, a much better method is the pin hole method.

I just don't trust laying something in there... I need something reinforced in some way... it seems that it would be easier for a piece of wire to "slip" that was placed in a socket rather than wrapped tight around the PINs...

The first article I link to covers the pin hole method.
 
Pinky said:


I just don't trust laying something in there... I need something reinforced in some way... it seems that it would be easier for a piece of wire to "slip" that was placed in a socket rather than wrapped tight around the PINs...

The first article I link to covers the pin hole method.
I took ol' mans advice and used the pin hole method. Once the CPU is locked down there is no place for the wire to go. I've even pulled and reinstalled my chip 3 times and the wire stayed in place each time.
 
Agree with the above. I also used the method recommended by ol' man. It worked perfectly. Once the CPU is in, there is no place for the wire to go.
 
I've tried the pin hole method, and wrapping...and I have to agree with Pinky on this one...wrapping those pins just give me a sense of security, even if it is a false sense. Both methods work, so it falls back on the old adage "to each his own"...whatever works, right?
 
I tried laying the wire method with too thick wire and broke a pin off A variation on this theme would be to take apart the 370 socket and place the wire under the top of the plastic 370 socket.
Haardcore users could purhaps solider the pins on the reverse side of the board.
 
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gg said:
I tried laying the wire method with too thick wire and broke a pin off A variation on this theme would be to take apart the 370 socket and place the wire under the top of the plastic 370 socket.
Haardcore users could purhaps solider the pins on the reverse side of the board.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
XXXXXXXXXXX.XXX

That's the best method IMHO. But, alas, I don't solder (yes, some of us don't :p ) so it would not be an option for me.

The concern I expressed regarding placing wire in the socket is not what happens once the CPU is inserted, it's while the CPU is inserted, and that it could push, pull, tug, etc the wire loose if not done properly.

There's risk involved with both methods, I find less risk with wrapping since I can clearly see and have more control over the movement of the wire...

BTW, gg, that link you have/had in your post is probably not allowed by forum rules. You may want to edit your post to remove it ;)
 
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Has anyone got the wire trick working with a powerleap pl-ip3/t adapter?

I have the adapter + celeron 1.2Ghz, and have done the wire trick by wrapping a thin piece of wire around VID2 and VID1 but get no post at 112Mhz FSB. I've tried the 'make a u-shape and put it in socket holes' method as well, and it didnt work either.

has anyone got it working *with* the powerleap adapter?
 
Yodums said:
I remember someone here I forgot who modded their adapter to be able to do some voltage adjustments.

Yodums

Yeh I read the thread about modding the adapter. I want to know if it works without modding the adapter and just doing the wire trick.
 
Blimpyboy said:


Yeh I read the thread about modding the adapter. I want to know if it works without modding the adapter and just doing the wire trick.

Sure it would, the mod to the adapter is only so you don't have to continuously remove the CPU and rewire to change voltages... they both do the same thing
 
Pinky said:


Sure it would, the mod to the adapter is only so you don't have to continuously remove the CPU and rewire to change voltages... they both do the same thing

Sure this is true in theory. But I'd like to hear from someone that its actually worked for them (using the adapater). I have the feeling that the powerleap adapter is setting the voltage based entirely on the VID signals like it should.
 
Blimpyboy said:


Sure this is true in theory. But I'd like to hear from someone that its actually worked for them (using the adapater). I have the feeling that the powerleap adapter is setting the voltage based entirely on the VID signals like it should.

All I can say is scan recent posts on tualatin celerons, somewhere in there a member (gets into a long discussion with Ol'Man) about doing this mod, even took photos of the results... I was pleased to see his results... and that's the only place I base my information from. I can't say I'd blame you for being skeptical, it took me 3 different threads (here and elsewhere) to finally try the pin mod at all :p
 
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