[M0rphin3]

First of all, Hello to everyone! I have been watching these forums for a few months now and have found them incredibly helpful, i thank all of you for that.

Now to the goods, i came across this Rad and was wondering if it would support a CPU loop, or any water cooling in general. Any thoughts or comments appreciated.










This Rad is 13 inches long, heat spreaders are 4.5 inches wide, its 6.25 inches total width, and 1 inch thick. The inlets/outlets are 5/8" ID, 3/4" OD.
Its made of copper/brass and obviously painted black.

Im not sure how well the placement of the inlets/outlets will work when mounting it. Not sure what i will be cooling, still havent decided to just purchase all the "right" equipment, or try a DIY build, little more enjoyment out of making random parts work tho.

[Spawn-Inc]

if its all copper/brass, which it looks like it, then its good to go.

i would slap 2 medium speed yates on there with a custom shroud and your good to go for a cpu loop.

i would say its equal or a bit less then a MCR220. maybe a bit less since its only single pass.

[Conumdrum]

I'd say clean it well and give it a go! A new MCR 220 is pretty cheap, but if this was a LOT cheaper I'd give it a try. Fan mounting could be fun... ack. Custom shroud?

[M0rphin3]

If free is cheaper then yes lol as far as it being cleaned its never been used on anything, its actually a Rad for a 200cc Quad engine, sent as a replacement parts for inventory but never used. Now i know how much better performance and cheap it is to just buy pre made products designed for this, but am looking to go the DIY route for once, prolly get everything except the Waterblocks, any recommendations on a pump?

[Spawn-Inc]

yes i would use that in a heart beat as there no aluminum in it. i was just saying that i think it would be on par with a MCR220.

PUMPS:
Swiftech MCP655/Laing D5

or

Swiftech MCP355 with XSPC res Top/ Laing DDC3.2 with same XSPC res top.

[Conumdrum]

Spawn listed the best top pump choices.

Danger Den sells one thats cheaper and might do just fine. If going the DYI route, you might find one better/cheaper with some legwork. Google Clicky Clicky!

http://www.dangerden.com/store/produ...6&cat=0&page=1

[M0rphin3]

Pump:MCP655-B
CPU Block: Apogee GTZ
Tubing: Tygon R-3603
Reservoir: MCRES-Micro

Hows this sound to start with?

[Nebulous]

Sounds good to me. As the other guyz said, clean the rad out really good, plug one of those ports or use it as a filling port with a plug.

Looks like you're good to go

[M0rphin3]

Could i use any 2 of the 3 ports? or will that mess the flow up? would it be possible to use the 2 at the top as the in / out and plug the bottom one? or will that not work.

[Nebulous]

Doesn't matter which 2. It all depends on your configuration and how you're mounting the rad.

[M0rphin3]

Possibly on the top of the case with the ports facing right down through the top.

[M0rphin3]

sorry for the double post, wont let me add the image to the previous post for some reason.

[trickson]

Looks like a heater core from a car . but it sure looks nice should have some fans on it .

[synthetic_fenix]

I would use that port that is alone on the one end as fill port and go with a T-line setup with that rad. Would make bleeding the line a whole lot easier.

[Spawn-Inc]

those parts are good.

and as for what ports to use you can onll use the ones with barbs. you need to cap the other one. the 2 barbs circled in yellow are the ones you use.

how ever if you can stick a wire or something like a pipe cleaner and there is a wall in between the 2 barbs on the one side you can use those 2 as it means its a 2 pass rad.


see the red line i made? if there is a wall there you can use those 2 sides only.


i hope that makes sense for you.

[M0rphin3]

Thanks Spawn, that makes perfect sense, and i just tested it and there is no wall between the top 2 holes, so ill have to use the ones with barbs like u said, and plug the threaded hole.
Will i run into problems due to the size of the "barbs" and them being 3/4", the gtz block and pump are 1/2" if im not mistaken?

[Spawn-Inc]

no, you will need a reducer from 3/4 to 1/2" i would look at the local hardware store for something like this.

or try and boil the 1/2" tubing and get it over the 3/4" barb. that would be my first choice. then a reducer if that won't work.

if those 2 don't work you might try cutting the lip around the top/edge of the barb off and using a worm/gear clamp to hold it on.