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Old 05-01-09, 10:24 PM Thread Starter   #1
ddawson
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Best way to clean the loop


I've been using the Pentosin G11 Coolant in my loop for a few years now.

I've changed it out once a year, but I've found the tubing has become cloudy with what seems like a waxy build up.

The res seems pretty clean but does have some build up.

I drained and flushed it several times last week and only used PT_Nuke -PHN this time but it hasn't cleared up.

Is there anything I can run though it? I plan on replacing the tubing and cleaning the block but if the build up is also in my radiator it's going to stay.

I need suggestions.

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Old 05-01-09, 11:32 PM   #2
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the cloudy film isnt really hurting your system at all and unless you change the tubng you wont really be able to SAFELY get rid of it.

other than looks its not really a big deal. the only thing you may want to worry about is looking into the block when you do your next flush.

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Old 05-01-09, 11:34 PM   #3
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I always replace the tubing when I flush a system.

As for the rad. When you take the loop apart next time, just fill the rad with distilled water and shake it around for a bit then dump/repeat. That will get any possible buildup out.

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Old 05-02-09, 06:59 AM   #4
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I like to use warm water and white vinegar to flush the rad - Shake it up, let it sit 5-10 minutes, then shake again. After that a thorough rinse with running tap water, shake out the excess water as much as possible, then a last flush with distilled water ...
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Old 05-02-09, 09:32 AM   #5
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OP, the clouding is caused by plasticiser, a chemical added to the tubing to keep it soft. If you want a semi-permanent solution you can try one of the many plasticiser-free variants like Tygon 2075 (very stiff) or Primochill LRT. I'm running red UV LRT now, but it hasn't been in use for long enough to tell how well it works.

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Old 05-02-09, 12:36 PM Thread Starter   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perseus View Post
OP, the clouding is caused by plasticiser, a chemical added to the tubing to keep it soft. If you want a semi-permanent solution you can try one of the many plasticiser-free variants like Tygon 2075 (very stiff) or Primochill LRT. I'm running red UV LRT now, but it hasn't been in use for long enough to tell how well it works.
But it wipes off if I squeeze to pipes or stick my finger in the ends.

It's feels somewhat like water wetter/soap.

I bought some of the UV Green tubing from Pertas that I'll use when I start ordering my 920 parts.

Thanks for the vinegar tip. I'll do that when I'm upgrading.

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Old 05-02-09, 12:43 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddawson View Post
But it wipes off if I squeeze to pipes or stick my finger in the ends.

It's feels somewhat like water wetter/soap.

I bought some of the UV Green tubing from Pertas that I'll use when I start ordering my 920 parts.

Thanks for the vinegar tip. I'll do that when I'm upgrading.
i got rid of most of it with a long wire brush, but it comes back and never gets back to clear.

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Old 05-02-09, 01:09 PM   #8
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As Perseus said, the film is caused by plasticizer in the tubing itself. It stays in the tubing and usually isn't a problem. You can either use a rod and a small soapy rad to ream out and clean the tubing, or just replace it like most of us do. It however isn't really anything to worry about.

As for the vinegar in the rad, you want to be careful as to how you use it. It is really recommended not to use vinegar but to just use hot soapy water since vinegar is slightly acidic.
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Old 05-02-09, 01:14 PM   #9
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5-10 minutes won't do much, but with that said newer rads don't need vinigar as they use water based flux. hot soapy water works great.

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Old 05-02-09, 02:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddawson View Post
But it wipes off if I squeeze to pipes or stick my finger in the ends. It's feels somewhat like water wetter/soap.
Yeah, it's the same material, though I'd imagine that its consistency would change a bit based on what sort of coolant you use. The actual downside of seeing it is that, as it leeches out your tubing becomes stiffer and more brittle.

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Old 05-14-09, 01:33 AM   #11
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Well instead of starting a new thread I figured I'd tack onto this one with a related question. I recently disassembled my loop to prepare for new parts and a new case. Everything was pretty spic-and-span, even the inside of the CPU block. Then I looked inside the radiator and viewed this (pic attached). I ran some really hot tap water through it for a minute, didn't do much to clear it out. Am I correct in assuming this is corrosion? Or is this algae? I ran Pentosin G11 and PT-Nuke, but it's been going for a good 2 years, a little past the 6 month change that's usually recommended. Anyway, I was thinking of doing a vinegar soak for 5-10 minutes, some hot distilled water rad shakes, to see if that clears it up, and if not I guess it's not something to worry about? Opinions needed.
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Old 05-14-09, 02:54 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JudgeDredd View Post
Well instead of starting a new thread I figured I'd tack onto this one with a related question. I recently disassembled my loop to prepare for new parts and a new case. Everything was pretty spic-and-span, even the inside of the CPU block. Then I looked inside the radiator and viewed this (pic attached). I ran some really hot tap water through it for a minute, didn't do much to clear it out. Am I correct in assuming this is corrosion? Or is this algae? I ran Pentosin G11 and PT-Nuke, but it's been going for a good 2 years, a little past the 6 month change that's usually recommended. Anyway, I was thinking of doing a vinegar soak for 5-10 minutes, some hot distilled water rad shakes, to see if that clears it up, and if not I guess it's not something to worry about? Opinions needed.
That's what I'd do. If you're going to use distilled for a rinse then (partially) fill, shake, and drain 2-3 times ...
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Old 05-14-09, 09:07 AM   #13
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It's not corrosion, it's buildup and gunk. Overdoing PT Nuke will leave a small copper deposit. The antifreeze will leave a buildup in time too.

Biol water, let cool a bit, pour in rad, fill 1/2 way. Shake like crazy, pour into a clear bowl, redo, redo till clear. See if that clears it out. Final rinse two times with distilled.

Yea, two years lets the water get buildup for sure. Whats the inside of the CPU block look like?

There are rad cleaners on the market, heard of them used, but I dunno.

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Old 05-14-09, 10:14 AM   #14
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I had some minor gunk like that in my pump and rad after using Pentosin for a while. It is normal. You can use hot soapy water and shake it up good. You can also use Prestone radiator flush.

My preferred weapon of choice is to rinse with hot water, then squirt the rad full with DOW Scrubbing Bubbles. I shake it a bit, then let it sit for 5-10 min, then rinse several times with hot soapy water, rinse with clear water, then final rinse a couple of times with distilled water making sure the water is clear when done coming out and all of the Bubbles are rinsed out.

DOW Scrubbing Bubbles works wonders for stuff like this.
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Old 05-14-09, 11:28 AM   #15
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I keep forgetting to try that! I've got another multi-HC built coming soon I'll have to remember ...
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Old 05-14-09, 12:15 PM   #16
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Quote:
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It's not corrosion, it's buildup and gunk. Overdoing PT Nuke will leave a small copper deposit. The antifreeze will leave a buildup in time too.

Biol water, let cool a bit, pour in rad, fill 1/2 way. Shake like crazy, pour into a clear bowl, redo, redo till clear. See if that clears it out. Final rinse two times with distilled.

Yea, two years lets the water get buildup for sure. Whats the inside of the CPU block look like?

There are rad cleaners on the market, heard of them used, but I dunno.
I didn't take apart the block, but from what I can see in the inlet, it's looks clean. I ordered a new block so I haven't bothered with taking the old one apart yet. I'll do that to clean it when I intend to sell it. I did have to take the pump apart, as I got a new top for it, and it looked clean. I must admit the water smelled kinda bad, I gotta remember not to let it go so long without a flush this time.
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Old 05-14-09, 01:14 PM   #17
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Ok battle update people. The war against the Green Gunk (tm) is not looking good. I hit it with a 10 minute vinegar soak and about to do my 3rd hot distilled water flush, and the enemy remains undeterred (see pic ). What is my next attack? Actual radiator cleaner? I gotta go down to the auto parts store anyway to pick up sand paper for lapping my IHS, should I get some radiator cleaner while I'm down there? When I was pouring out the water from the distilled flushes, I could see little corpses of the enemy, but not in any great amount unfortunately.
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Old 05-14-09, 03:34 PM   #18
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I'd try the scubbing bubbles first. Actually it's not that bad, I'm sure the channels are clear now. Rad cleaner would be the last option, be careful and read the instructions for what materials it's made for. Car rads aren't copper anymore.

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Old 05-14-09, 03:38 PM   #19
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must be the camera but it looks much better to me. leave it for 30 minutes. and see what happens.

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Old 05-14-09, 04:02 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Ok battle update people. The war against the Green Gunk (tm) is not looking good. I hit it with a 10 minute vinegar soak and about to do my 3rd hot distilled water flush, and the enemy remains undeterred (see pic ). What is my next attack? Actual radiator cleaner? I gotta go down to the auto parts store anyway to pick up sand paper for lapping my IHS, should I get some radiator cleaner while I'm down there? When I was pouring out the water from the distilled flushes, I could see little corpses of the enemy, but not in any great amount unfortunately.
That looks like copper oxidization to me, not major, but definitely there. If you can use a plastic toothpick to "feel" it you can determine if it's slime or something solid. Oxidized copper will feel hard and may be flaky too. Vinegar will break up the oxidized copper, but it will definitely come back in time. I wouldn't worry too much about it, but I would do another vinegar soak followed by a thorough flushing with distilled water. It's definitely looking better though.

Not sure if it would be too strong, but CLR might be able to break some of that up too. There is a chance that it could weaken the rad's tubing or eat through it though.....anyone ever used CLR to flush their rad?

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